THRUST WASHER PULLER
#1
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From: Holly Lake Ranch (section 6),
TX
I need to replace bearings on my SX50 can anybody direct me to a vendor
that sells a thrust washer puller.
I am planning to use stainless bearings from Boca Bearings. Am I on the right track or should I use a different type of bearing.
Any constructive feedback will be appreciated
Thanks
JGZ
that sells a thrust washer puller.
I am planning to use stainless bearings from Boca Bearings. Am I on the right track or should I use a different type of bearing.
Any constructive feedback will be appreciated
Thanks
JGZ
#2

My Feedback: (16)
I rebuilt two SX 50's during this past Christmas and didn't need a thrust washer puller.
The drive washer must come off first because there is a Woodruff half moon key under the drive washer. This key must be removed or you cannot get the crank out. There's a little washer between the key and the front bearing that you do not want to loose.
Heat the engine up in the oven just under 300 F and you bang the back of the crankcase against a 2 X 4 to shake the crank out.
Enjoy,
Jim
The drive washer must come off first because there is a Woodruff half moon key under the drive washer. This key must be removed or you cannot get the crank out. There's a little washer between the key and the front bearing that you do not want to loose.
Heat the engine up in the oven just under 300 F and you bang the back of the crankcase against a 2 X 4 to shake the crank out.
Enjoy,
Jim
#6
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Check with the hardware shops. Here we use what is called a bearing extractor (some made in China thingy). It works like a cork extractor that you use for wines. The contraption will have 2 grip like things on the side that will hold the thrust washer ... then a long metal screw is attached to the shaft ... you tighten the screw and it pushes against the shaft, hence exracting the thrust washer. Its really cheap here ...
#7

My Feedback: (16)
I don't know if you guys are catching on here or not but the drive washer on a OS 50SX will just slide off with your fingers. There is no tapered collet or anything on it.
But you better get the woodruff key out or the crank will not slide out of the front bearing. Sometimes the key falls out and sometimes it takes pliers.
Enjoy,
Jim
But you better get the woodruff key out or the crank will not slide out of the front bearing. Sometimes the key falls out and sometimes it takes pliers.
Enjoy,
Jim
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Dave:
I find it hard to think you are surprised. What OS parts are not ridiculously overpriced?
Remember, that Woodruff key is at least twenty-four cents at your local hardware store.
Bill.
ORIGINAL: Flyboy Dave
WOW....!!!....OS wants $3.89 for the woodruff key....[X(]
WOW....!!!....OS wants $3.89 for the woodruff key....[X(]
Remember, that Woodruff key is at least twenty-four cents at your local hardware store.
Bill.
#11
Senior Member
John,
Ask Paul at [link=http://rc-bearings.com]RC-Bearings[/link] about the set that you need.
The price will be 55-70% lower than Boca...
Stainless steel bearings are not necessary, unless you want to:
* Never to run your engine dry at the end of the day... leave it full of fuel.
* Use fuel that contains no Castor oil at all... kill your engine so your model will stay a bit cleaner.
* Never to use any after-run oil...
If you want to do any, or all of these mistakes and run more nitro (forms nitric acid...) and make your bearings live a little longer before they rust (stainless steel is only less susceptible to rust, but it will eventually catch the 'steel cancer' too...), waste your money on stainless.
I never had to replace any bearing due to rust, so I cannot understand why it is so common in these pages.
Ask Paul at [link=http://rc-bearings.com]RC-Bearings[/link] about the set that you need.
The price will be 55-70% lower than Boca...
Stainless steel bearings are not necessary, unless you want to:
* Never to run your engine dry at the end of the day... leave it full of fuel.
* Use fuel that contains no Castor oil at all... kill your engine so your model will stay a bit cleaner.
* Never to use any after-run oil...
If you want to do any, or all of these mistakes and run more nitro (forms nitric acid...) and make your bearings live a little longer before they rust (stainless steel is only less susceptible to rust, but it will eventually catch the 'steel cancer' too...), waste your money on stainless.
I never had to replace any bearing due to rust, so I cannot understand why it is so common in these pages.
#12
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From: Holly Lake Ranch (section 6),
TX
Guys,
Thanks for bringing my attention to the woodruff key.
I always run the engine dry and use after run oil. If there is no advantage to use the stainless bearings I wil go for the normal steel bearings which is about half of the cost.
Thanks for the help and guidance
Brgds
John
Thanks for bringing my attention to the woodruff key.
I always run the engine dry and use after run oil. If there is no advantage to use the stainless bearings I wil go for the normal steel bearings which is about half of the cost.
Thanks for the help and guidance
Brgds
John





