Of course there is a Splattsville. You may never find it on a map, but our boy Solatt lives in a tiwn, it is by definition Splatt's Village, and therefore Splattsville when shortened.

And there is a "MassiveModsTown" somewhere also.

Bill.

Wow! I looked too. I recall using Devcon epoxy in the past. Seemed about like all the others. Surely there is an error in that price. (or a truly gargantuan tube!)

jess

Now I'm wondering if the ball milled inlet is just a short-cut in the production.
You can mill it in one pass, rather than having to come back and square up
the corners ?

FBD.

Dave:

Look back at my picture in post #8.

The "Standard" port crank requires one dtrilling, no precision, and one pass with an end mill or fly cutter. Angle and depth have to be right, but that's simple jigging. Fast and inexpensive.

To make the "Flowed" port a thrid cut is necessary, this time the same jig can be used, but now we have precise centering, exact depth of plunge, then a careful horizontal movement to locate the forward end of the cut.

This thrid cut will approximately double the machining expense and time needed for each crank. An easy place to cut production cost.

Bill.

Yes, I see it now that I've had another look at the picture....

....never mind.

FBD.

I found some epoxy Filler called 3805 Adhesive by "Loctite" It was $20.00 its heat resistant to 175 c , fuel proof too .. its stats are a little better than the Devcon which i found also.. It was only $20.00 too. I think that $194.00 price is either a miss print or for a real big tube of the stuff...

MassiveMods is a place here in Sydney Australia, its in 12/13 Purkis st Camperdown, Its my Shop !! lol

Here is a club i race on road buggy at http://www.pdnracing.org.au/

[quote]ORIGINAL: MassiveMods

.... so does any one know what the epoxy is called ?

We have used JB weld on several racing engines. Never had any come loose but the gain was just a couple hundred. RPM. Be sure to roughen the area with a dremel. Low heat i.e. 150-200F will allow the JB to flow. This area of the crank runs fairly cool. The same JB weld is used on Mouse Can mufflers and seems to handle the temperature OK. We did not see any effect on engine balance.
Fred

Could you use high temp Lab Metal? It is supposed to be good to 1000 degrees F after post cure.

well i just did a full rebild on a 46 ... used that Loctite brand weld to fill the crank .. should see the results tomorrow when i test it ..

If you're "filling" the crank in the area just under the carb, it won't even get hot there...The alcohol in the fuel will keep things nice and cool. The only time the area will get warm is after you shut down the engine and you get some heat soak...
The engines I previously mentioned were done almost 20 years ago, and are holding up fine w/ the JB Weld...
The balance shouldn't be effected unless you get carried away and use a lot of material (shouldn't have to ). What little you should need to use is so close to the rotational axis of the crank that it won't upset the balance in a noticable way.
I think most engines are a little out of balance anyway...I know some of their owners are!

Well i finished the engine and tested it toady. Its got some serious grunt and sounds really different to when i got it. It will be a matter of time before we see if the epoxy holds but i did prep it well as was suggested by Proptop, mind you i fashioned the epoxy once it had some 12 hours to set. I then cleaned it and popped it in the oven for 15 mins at 180 deg C . if it was going to crack or pop it would have done it then .. The owner picks it up tomorrow . Im sure he will be back to replace the drive train next.. lol that thing sounds like it will eat a few gears.. Thanks for all your help on this BTW

1 st and second gear eaten in less than 2 mins.. LOL .. that thing almost picked up the front wheels on a rambo..