Help !!! How to pull off the drive washer?
#1
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From: PADUCAH,
KY
I need some help here !!!! I have a thunder tiger .46 pro that I have tore down in order to change the bearings.
My problem is that I can't get the drive washer off the front bearing area in order to pull out the crank shaft. By looking at the engine diagram parts list it appears that it pulls straight off the front. I have been trying to use a gear puller with no success. When I start applying pressure it gets so tight that I can barely turn the gear puller and I am afraid to force it any more because something mite break !!! Any other suggestions on how to get the drive washer off this engine without damage to any of the parts. Any help would be apprieciated !!!
I also heated the engine up in the oven to around 250 degrees but still nothing would budge!!!
Map
My problem is that I can't get the drive washer off the front bearing area in order to pull out the crank shaft. By looking at the engine diagram parts list it appears that it pulls straight off the front. I have been trying to use a gear puller with no success. When I start applying pressure it gets so tight that I can barely turn the gear puller and I am afraid to force it any more because something mite break !!! Any other suggestions on how to get the drive washer off this engine without damage to any of the parts. Any help would be apprieciated !!!
I also heated the engine up in the oven to around 250 degrees but still nothing would budge!!!
Map
#2
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Map:
Just crank your puller tighter. The result will be either you'll break the puller, or the drive washer will pop free. This has caused apprehension among many Saito owners also.
Bill.
Just crank your puller tighter. The result will be either you'll break the puller, or the drive washer will pop free. This has caused apprehension among many Saito owners also.
Bill.
#6
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Use heat, then pull real tight.
When at the limit of your "feel", tap with a steel hammer. You need the sharp shock wave that the hammer provides. The risk is in that you will also dent your front ball bearing.
A steeper taper would help this problem, but then many people complain about the taper popping loose without any effort. Personally, I like the steeper tapers, because I dismantle engines frequently to check on my experiments.
When at the limit of your "feel", tap with a steel hammer. You need the sharp shock wave that the hammer provides. The risk is in that you will also dent your front ball bearing.
A steeper taper would help this problem, but then many people complain about the taper popping loose without any effort. Personally, I like the steeper tapers, because I dismantle engines frequently to check on my experiments.
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Pe:
The locking taper ( 10 degree ) was a deliberate choice on the four stroke engines, it gives that added bit of prevention against throwing a prop. On a two stroke engine with its lower tendency to backfire the non-locking tapers of 17 or more degrees angle are fine.
With my puller I've never had to use any heat - you may have noticed it's rated at 5000 pounds screw pressure - but it is a lot more money than could be justified for casual use.
Bill.
The locking taper ( 10 degree ) was a deliberate choice on the four stroke engines, it gives that added bit of prevention against throwing a prop. On a two stroke engine with its lower tendency to backfire the non-locking tapers of 17 or more degrees angle are fine.
With my puller I've never had to use any heat - you may have noticed it's rated at 5000 pounds screw pressure - but it is a lot more money than could be justified for casual use.
Bill.
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From: Crestview, FL
Listen to Bill. He helped me with the drive washer on my Saito 150. You really need a good puller. I bought a cheapie one from the auto parts store and it wouldn't workd worth crap. Borrowed a 3 jaw one and finally got it off with that. It takes a LOT of force to get it to move. I thought I'd broken something when mine let go!.




