PlaneKrazee

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GONE2THERIVER

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Hello,
Gary here,
Got a Saito 82 on my U-can-do 46. I mounted the du-bro fuel filler in the top of the cowl instead of the side because of all the fuel related problems I have read here. No Siphon problems but it floods allot on cold start up. I have read in the threads about the cline regulator. Sounds like a good solution 4 this. Any one know where to buy one or any other cures for this problem. Also can I be a member? Thanks to all who post the great info on this site!!!

William Robison

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[b]Gary:

Get the [link=http://www.billsroom.com/pcfs/]Cline here[/link]. Also some good information on how it works.

You now have number 66 as GONE2THERIVER.

Bill.

PS: Is that the river Styx? Are you waiting for Charon to row you across? Haw. wr.

Texastbird

Hi, my Buddy is having a lot of trouble keeping the muffler tight on his 1.80 in his Patrick Cub. Any suggestions? He's tried loctite on the threads and its still getting loose from the head on almost every flight.

William Robison

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[b]TB:

The method that works for me is to tighten the locking nut when the engine is fully warm. Others have had good results using teflon tape on the threads. Maybe the best would be the tape and tighten when hot.

Bill.

Texastbird

OK, thanks Bill for the quick reply. We had discussed the merit of tightening the nuts when hot but he is an engineer and needs lots of "encouragement" to try things. I will let him know that you have recommended this method and also the teflon tape. At this point he really has nothing to lose.
As an added thought, have you tried the Slimline Pitts muffler for a four stroke? I was thinking it could be secured to the engine mount and it might resist loosening up. But I haven't seen one or heard much at all about them.

William Robison

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[b]TT:

I've never tried any accessory exhausts on a 4s engine, other than running a pure straight pipe.

Experience on 2s engines has been that most aftermarket mufflers need careful carb adjustment, even more than with the stock mufflers, to get reliable engine run.

Bill.

freeonthree

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Here's one of mine... If ya saw my other post, this is the 72 that does'nt want to idle smooth below 2500 rpm, but I still love it... We'll figure it out someday. LOL

IronCross

Bill
I picked up a low milage 1.20 today real reasonable... The box says FA120S... Has a G stampted on the engine lug.. Cast intake pipe, curved exaust pipe and a stack on it. The crankcase vent is out the back cover.. Not sure I like that.. From you pictures in previous posts it appears to be the AAC version... Question, is there any way to tell if this is indeed the "S" version by looking at the engine ?.. If I understand what you have said correctly the S version is hotter version of the 1.20 ?...
Thanks
IC

William Robison

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[b]Dennis:

What I can see of it, looks like a nice plane.

Have you checked the back plate for flex? Might be the problem.

You are in "Club Saito" as number 67, Dennis Flora.

Bill.

Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

Ok! Here Goes!

2- 30's, 2-56's, 2-72's, 3-91's, 1-100, 3-120's
2-60 Twins, 2-90 Twins, 2-100 Twins, 1-100 inline Twin, 1-130 Twin, 1-182 Twin,
1- 200 inline Twin, 1- 300 Twin
1-90 radial, 3-170 Radials, 1-325 Radial, 1-450 Radial

Most of them were bought right here on RC Universe.

I love this Board!

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

[b]IC:

Positive identification of the various big block engines can be a little difficult, but I think what you got is the latest version of the FA-120. If it's a white box it's almost definite.

ABC/AAC - in the first picture you can see the cylinder fins extending over the cam box, this is the ABC cylinder. Contrast that to the second picture with the fins much smaller. The smaller fins are the AAC type. Contrary to what you might think, the smaller fins give no loss of cooling since the brass/aluminum joint was less efficient, the ABC needed the larger fins, the AAC does not. The AAC therefore is lighter not only by eliminating the cast in brass sleeve, but less metal is needed for the fins.

In the first picture note the push rod tubes going all the way down to the cam box, this is the "Low cam" engine. In all the others, if you look closely, the "Lump" in the rubber is well above the cam box, this is the sign of the "High" cam. Fifth picture shows it clearly.

The third picture shows what you probably got. The early hot FA-120S still had the cast sign "FA-120" on the right side, the later ones have the sticker that says only "120S" there. This was probably an economy measure for Saito, using the same casting for all the big block engines and just putting the right sticker on each size. Internal machining is different, but the outside is the same.

All the parts of the original FA-120S and the later version will interchange except the cylinder and intake pipe. Since the original version had only the o-ring seal for the intake pipe it also had a metal mounting bracket added to support the carb.

Hope I've covered your questions, if not let me know.

Bill.

Pictures:
1) FA-120 ABC, low cam.
2) FA-120S AAC, high cam, pipe intake, hot version.
3) FA-120S AAC, high cam, cast intake, current version.
4) FA-120S AAC, hot version, different view.
5) FA-120S AAC, hot version,showing cam box.

William Robison

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[b]Mr Michaud:

Consider yourself number 68, Meesh.

Good to hear from you again, and welcome, sir.

Bill.

freeonthree

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Seems fine... We think it the carb, so were gunna try another one from a 65 that idles as slow as any Harley. LOL That will be a good starting reference... Here's the rest of the plane. I've been flying it for about 2 years, and Im sad they discontinued them... I would buy another, and this one is really gettin used up. Lots of hours on the poor thing...

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

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IronCross

Bill
In reply to post 255
It appears to be picture #3... Based primarily on the intake manifold with the 90 degree bend in it... It did come however in a gold and black box.. Dang, Thought I had a hot one ..
Does the back cover vent cause lubrication problems with the cam etc ?..
Also there appears to be some carb parts in the box... A spray bar, HS needle etc which appear to have been repalced... Was there an upgrade to the carb on these...
Haven't fired it up yet but it appears to have good compression and all...

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

[b]Brian:

All the big block Saitos have had the cast intake pipe except the one version of the FA-120S. And there weren't too many of them made.

IC:

If yours is shown in the third picture of post 255 you got a genuine FA-120S, just not the version with the curved intake and the free flow muffler. They were still using the black and bronze colored box at the time. Latest shipping has the white box.

Yes, there was an upgrade to the carb, came out about two years ago.

Bill.

William Robison

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[b]IC:

Sorry, didn't address the case vent.

All the Saitos, going way back in history, have had the vent in the back plate until they replaced the metal back plate with the plastic one. Starting with the FA-72 and the plastic plate, the vent was moved to the bottom of the crank case under the cam box. Better cam lubrication was an added benefit.

If you wish, the first time you tear the engine down you can move your vent, either to the late location, or put it in the top of the cam box. On the bottom you'll need some reinforcement, JB Weld or similar should work. There's enough metal in the top of the cam box not to need anything else for the threads there.

Bill.

Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

Thank You William!

I've been doing some lurking lately but little posting. I have been very busy with work things.... UGH!

IronCross

Thanks Bill
Pretty much what I was curious about...
Found some paper work in the box... The engine
was purchased 07/00..
IC

av8r1

I've been thinking about adjusting my low-speed needle on my .82 leaner since I've got a lot of flying time on it now and would like to see if I can improve the idle and transition. Also, most of my flying is done at half throttle or less and it seems to run very rich even though the high speed needle is set pretty lean. I've read in a couple of places that the low speed needle is normally set rich from the factory with the screw about flush with the throttle arm. I have never adjusted mine but it is far from flush (see picture). I guess I'll try turning it in 1/8 turn at a time and see what happens. Any thoughts?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

[b]AV:

The flush initial setting was with the metal throttle lever. With the later plastic lever the flat of the LS adjuster is roughly 1/16" down at the factory setting - the thickness of the plastic at that point.

With the engine on the stand (if you can) peak the HS and drop to as low an idle as you can hold. then just start turning the LS in SLOWLY as the engine will take 5-7 seconds to respond. As you lean it the rpm will rise when you're getting close to optimum, lower the idle trim to keep it down. When you think you have it pinch the fuel line to check. The rpm should stay steady momentarily, then fall. If the "Rs" fall immediately you've gone too lean, and if the rpm rises before it falls you're still on the rich side.

When you think you have it, open the HS needle about one turn and go to full throttle. Peak the HS, then go rich to get your 300-400 rpm drop, and check transition in the normal way, trimming the LS to get it right.

Now you should have an engine that idles a lot smoother, and burns less fuel, with no decrease in power available.

Bill.

av8r1

Thanks Bill. "idles a lot smoother, and burns less fuel, with no decrease in power" is just what I'm looking for.

William Robison

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[b]AV:

That's what we're all looking for, and a properly adjusted Saito gives it to us.

Bill.

freeonthree

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Took the ol Super Stearman flyin tonite for a while. I must have the low end pretty colse, it idled nice and smooth for a change, but still does'nt like to run below about 2500 rpm.