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Old 12-03-2006, 09:20 PM
  #5526  
N1EDM
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Dave,
To answer your other questions, the pressure tap on the muffler is pretty universal, but you may wind up getting one from Horizon Hobbies anyway, unless your LHS is very well stocked. I've never measured it, but that's most likely a metric thread.

As for the 'fuel' fitting on the bottom of the engine, that's really a drain for crankcase oil, which is a byproduct of the engine. Fit a piece of fuel tubing to it to drain the oil away.

I have a Saito .82 and really enjoy it. Lots of different suggestions for prop sizes. Just stick with the manual that WR just sent you and you'll do OK.

Bob
Old 12-03-2006, 09:32 PM
  #5527  
Campy
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

I just acquired a Saito FA80GK.

I noticed a tap in the backplate. Is this tap for the crankcase vent or is it the muffler pressure tap ?

My Saito 72 & 82 have taps in the front of the engine to vent the excess oil to the outside. This tap on the backplate is the only tap/vent on the engine.

Thanks
Old 12-03-2006, 09:45 PM
  #5528  
William Robison
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Campy:

The FA-72 and FA-82 engines have a plastic back plate, for this reason as well as better lubrication to the cam and tappets, the crank case vent was moved to the front of the engine. The FA-80GK isz the older design with a metal back plate, and it still has the vent in the rear. To the user there's no difference in the front or rear location of the vent.

Bill.
Old 12-03-2006, 09:52 PM
  #5529  
WRM
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William
I got this from tower tips. It says when breaking in your car or truck engine, it is not a good idea to let it idle. Letting it idle for a tank or two of fuel will break the parts in at a low temperature and will cause it to lose compression when you open it up full throttle. I know we don't fly car engines, but Saito says to run it for ten minutes not over 4000 rpm. Is this why the Saito have lite compression?
Old 12-03-2006, 10:14 PM
  #5530  
Campy
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Thanks. I thought it was the vent, but as I have found out over the years, thinking can be dangerous for me
Old 12-03-2006, 10:54 PM
  #5531  
William Robison
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WRM:

The engines in 99.44% of the R/C cars have tapered bores and no piston rings. They have to be gotten to running temperature as quickly as possible, both in break-in and normal running. Otherwise they will wear rapidly. This is also true for ABC type tapered bore airplane engines.

Saito engines are ringed engines, break-in is quite different, ten minutes at 4K rpm wont hurt them at all.

Bill.
Old 12-04-2006, 09:10 AM
  #5532  
WRM
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William
This I can understand about the car engines. Now why do my Saitos feel like they don't have much compression when turning it over by hand?
Old 12-04-2006, 09:24 AM
  #5533  
William Robison
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WRM:

As a quick guess you're turning the engine with the throttle closed. Unlike a two stroke that can back fill the cylinder with air through the exhaust port, all the air in a four stroke has to come through the carb. Prop the throttle open and feel the difference. Post your comment, might make some others believe also.

Bill.
Old 12-04-2006, 10:11 AM
  #5534  
WRM
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William
Yes I was turning the engine with the throttle closed. Yes you can feel the difference. But my old OS feel stronger, but it is older.
Old 12-04-2006, 05:24 PM
  #5535  
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Yes, all of my Saito engines will seem to have no compression with the carb closes. But open the carb and feel the difference. Back filling the cyclinder with pressure will fool you compared to a two stroke. Fuel it and fly.
Old 12-04-2006, 06:34 PM
  #5536  
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Heaven on a stick!!!!

Ran my 170R3 in on the weekend and was I (and the collected spectators) impressed at how ridiculously easy it is to start. This is truly a case of read the manual and do what it says. Put three litres through it and it settled to a nice 8,200 RPM WOT with a 16X8 MAS prop running 10% nitro. Should gain a few hundred more in flight. What impressed most was the reliable really slow idle without glow support.

Now I am thinking I shall have to save frantically to buy a second for a BIG twin project. Tigercat or Beaufighter perhaps?

You have just got to love Saito's

TC
Old 12-04-2006, 07:22 PM
  #5537  
WRM
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Thanks fellas
I'm kind of new to the Saito engines and you have answered alot of questions for me.
Old 12-04-2006, 10:45 PM
  #5538  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Thunderchild,

Did you have in on a test stand or in a plane?
Old 12-04-2006, 10:54 PM
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ORIGINAL: blw

Thunderchild,

Did you have in on a test stand or in a plane?

On a test stand.
Old 12-05-2006, 04:09 PM
  #5540  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Now that my hands have thawed out I have another question on my Saito 80GK.

Braved the cold today and got the engine running, FINALLY. The engine runs out well - 10,350 with an APC 13x6 on 15% fuel. Burble in transition, but that is most likely fine tuning the carb.

My question:

My 72 and 82 run fine with the high speed needle open 2 - 2 1/4 turns. This 80GK needs to have the high speed needle open 4 3/4 turns AND be extremely wet before it will start. Temperature was 37 degrees, humidity about 75%.

I realize every engine is different, but this seems excessive to me.

Suggestions ?

Thanks.
Old 12-05-2006, 04:26 PM
  #5541  
Jimmy Hoffa
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A possible reason for the main needle being so many turns out is if the idle mixture is too far in (lean).
Phillip
Old 12-05-2006, 05:27 PM
  #5542  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Camp, if that is an older Saito .80 it could very benefit from a spraybar upgrade for the carb.




http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SAI80144
Old 12-05-2006, 05:54 PM
  #5543  
Campy
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ORIGINAL: Jimmy Hoffa

A possible reason for the main needle being so many turns out is if the idle mixture is too far in (lean).
Phillip
How many turns out would be a good starting point ?
Old 12-05-2006, 05:56 PM
  #5544  
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A late present from Santa (Won't be in till mid Jan )
Old 12-06-2006, 09:26 AM
  #5545  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

hello all. Is there a complete overhaul kit for a 1.20. Including bearings and tappets and gaskets?
Old 12-06-2006, 11:23 AM
  #5546  
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You have to select the individual components from this list.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...arts%20Listing

some of us buy our rings from.... Frank Bowman. He manufactures repro and current piston rings for our modeling needs. He can make standard and Dykes type rings. If he doesn't have the ring you need in stock, you send the piston and cylinder and he will make it then. prices are around $9.50. His work is of the finest quality.

Frank can be reached at:
Frank Bowman
1211 N. Allen
Farmington, NM. 87401
505-327-0696 (6 pm to 9pm MST weekdays)
Email: [email protected]

And our bearings from RC bearings or Boca Bearings

http://www.mcintoshcentral.com/rc-be...8fa5c4c427f08e

Some people reface the cam followers if necessary

Old 12-06-2006, 05:37 PM
  #5547  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !


ORIGINAL: William Robison

Are you Saito fliers? Tell me yes and I'll add you to the list.

Bill.
Add me too!

I have a .82 GK in a H9 Twist,
another .82 in a Seagull Harrier 3D,
a 1.50 in a Dave Patricks Ultimate,
and a 100 awaiting it's next plane.
Old 12-06-2006, 08:38 PM
  #5548  
diz
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Can anyone who's gotten a stack mounted to a 100 (or similar) give me any kind of a link or a size or a part number or anything that points to where you got that o-ring, tubing, or whatever you used?

I've been messing around with o-rings, tubing, and everything else I could find but I can't get anything to fit well.

Thanks!
Old 12-06-2006, 08:46 PM
  #5549  
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Are you talking about an O-ring between the intake extension venturi and the carburetor?

I went up town to the hardware store and the lady let me select one (I had the engine with me to compare sizes) from her assortment box. But I bought a half dozen.

In the past, I have used an old intake manifold O-ring that was originally between the head and the intake manifold.
Old 12-06-2006, 08:49 PM
  #5550  
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Take the engine to the hardware store - there's a novel idea!

I'll try that, thanks.


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