scratchonly

I use plastic spinners on my 4S up to 120size; I have nothing larger. Don't let the spinner touch the prop and TIGHTEN the prop nut. Keep an Eye on things to prevent prop slips.

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

tower website; u cando .61 lists recommended tru turn spinner as TRUQ1065 - 2 1/4" and also ahs a link to the adapter nut for it. for my .46 u cando they recommended the 2" ultimate spinner.
when in doubt - send an email to tru turn, they have been very helpful to me. tell them what plane, engine and prop, they will tell you exactly what to get.
always use at least an aluminum back plate, great planes makes a good one. they ware durable and are generally balanced well.

jon

parker

Does anyone know how to remove the rear bearing from a Saito 180?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I heat the case up in the oven for just 20 minutes at 300F and bang the back of the crankcase against a pine board to shake it out.

Ken6PPC

Here are some pictures of my crank, cam, and rear bearing that came out of my Saito 100. The last picture shows the crank and cam after I cleaned them up.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If no more rust will come off on light colored or white tissue they will be fine.

Throw the bearings away

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Ken6PPC- what fuel did you use with the engine?

Ken6PPC

w8ye, I can't get any more rust off of the cam or crank. The rest of the case looks great now, and the cylinder walls look fine, as far up as I can see them. I haven't taken the piston out of the cylinder, but what I can see of it looks fine too. The front bearing turns freely. The rear bearing will turn freely for a few revolutions, and then kinda stick. A little more force will cause it to "click", and then it will turn freely again.

I have new ceramic bearings on the way from RC Bearings.



blw, I use nothing but Wildcat 15% Premium Xtra, and I flush my engines with Dexron as ARO after I finish flying for the day. However, I bought that plane and engine used from a friend at the flying field I belong to. I only flew the plane with this engine on it for 6 flights. I took the engine off of the plane, because it kept surging (RPM's going up and down while WOT). When I got it off of the plane, I felt a little play in the crankshaft, side to side, and started taking it apart.

The guy I bought it from uses Cool Power.

'Nuff said?

parker

Thanks for the tip. I will heat it up today. this is my first attempt to rebuild an engine and at this point in the project I am still full of confidence, we will see how I feel when I get it back together and try to start it. I decided to rebuild my own engines after I sent my Saito 180 to Horizon Hobbies for new bearings, it was my first expierance and they were great to do business with until my first flight with the new rebuild, They forgot to tighten the carb to the cylinder, it was just finger tight and came loose on take off, I the engine sputtered badly and almost returned my giant U-CAN-DO to it origional components. I landed ASAP and found that the carb was loose, I know that I should have checked it before the first flight, but I missed it and almost lost my plane,I am not bashing the service dept. only trying to report the facts and my expierance. I will continue to do business with them just dont trust the work

Parker

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Ken,

Leave the piston up in the cylinder.

Be sure and change both bearings while you have it apart.

Ken6PPC

Will do! Good advice, I am certain....

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

There is nothing wrong with Cool Power fuel as long as you keep the engine slightly rich and religiously use after run oil. I ran Cool Power fuel for many years when flying pattern without a single problem. But don't skip the after run oil, even once. Now-a-days I just use Wildcat or Omega. If neither is available I add castor oil to all synthetic oil fuels - just in case. One thing is that one must run the engine out dry after a day's flying, regardless of lube type or fuel brand.


Ed Cregger

Ken6PPC

Ed, I know the original owner of my Saito 100 burned out the fuel when finished for the day, but I don't remember ever seeing him use ARO. It is possible that he does, but I just haven't noticed it.

parker

The rear bearing came right out after heating, I started to order the parts I need and found out that this is a 120 not a 180 and the parts are hard to find, do you know where I can get a parts list and an exploaded view of the 120. I could not find everything on horizon hobbies site, or should I sell this 120 for parts, it looks like it has very few runs on it and most of the parts are not worn much

Parker

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

There are two 120's. There is the older Plain just "120" and then there is the "120S" and unfortunately combinations thereof.

You can get the bearings here
http://www.mcintoshcentral.com/rc-be...9431f4b791f847

parker

Thanks, I also need the carb intake manifold mine is broken also gaskets and some carb parts, spray bar , high speed needle valve and velosity stack

Parker

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Well there are two different kinds of manifolds. The early "S" model had a chrome plated steel tubular intake while the others had a cast intake.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/D...&CatId=&Page=1
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAI150S69A
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAI120S145
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI120S93
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAI120S144
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI120S85
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAI120S133
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAI120S91B

parker

That list helps alot except the intake manifold,I have the cast style intake like that but will the 150 fit on my 120, Parker

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

That intake manifold only fits the late 120S engine

The early 120S with the steel intake has no intake parts available

The straight plain 120 has no intake available

parker

How can I tell which 120 I have? the intake for the 150 looks just like mine, I have a cast elbow with a stainless insert that connects the mounting nut to the cast elbow and that is where it has come apart or broken Parker

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If your low speed idle mixture screw is in the center of the throttle arm and you have the die cast aluminum right angle intake manifold held on by a compression nut. This is your manifold.

The early 120S had a curved tubular steel intake that is chrome plated.

The original plain 120 had a cast intake but the sizes are different. The early model had a different looking carb with a air bleed adjustment for the idle mixture. There was no mixture screw in the center of the throttle arm

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Here should be a picture of a plain 120 on the left and the first design 120S on the right with the tubular intake.

The next pictures on the left is the 120s with the tubular intake and then the next is last 120S model

parker

My carb has the low side idle mixture in the middle of the throttle arm and it has another phillips screw with a spring around the threads above the throttle arm and towards the outside of the engine, what is this extra screw for? my crankcase has fa 120 cast in the side Parker

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

These pictures are all mixed up but you can see the lifter guides stick up out of the 120S whereas they are almost flush on the original 120
You can see the mushroom lifters or cam followers or tappets of the 120S compared with the straight ones of the original 120
You can see the "S" on the the 120S cam whereas the original 120 had no letter on it.
You can see the valve keepers are "C-clips" on the original 120 whereas the 120S has "Key type" valve keepers