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Old 01-12-2008, 11:26 PM
  #9601  
rexracer
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Well, I put the new bearings in my .45. All went well untill I put it all back together. I'm looking for ideas to fix this problem. I don't know why, but the crankpin is hitting the backplate when I tighten the backplate. At first I thought it might be that the rear bearing wasn't seated all the way, since it isn't flush with the case, but that wasn't the problem. I pulled off the cam gear and spacer and re-installed the crank and there's plenty of room, so the cam gear and spacer are holding the crank too far back. A thicker gasket might work, maybe tripple the thickness of the stock one, or somehow shaving the length of the spacer. I guess the front bearing's inner race is either a little thicker than the original, or the bearing seated in deeper than the original. The crank hits enough to freeze up when the backplate is tightened, but it will turn, with rubbing, if I loosen the backplate screws 1/4 of a turn. Has this ever happened to anyone else?
Old 01-13-2008, 09:26 AM
  #9602  
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Are you sure the rear main bearing is bottomed out in the crankcase.
Old 01-13-2008, 09:29 AM
  #9603  
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My experience with this situation has been the rear main bearing is not seated.
Old 01-13-2008, 02:57 PM
  #9604  
AKFireMedic
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ORIGINAL: w8ye

It shouldn't get much worse.
Well, I suppose I expected it wouldn't get worse. I was just wondering if running the new fuel will clean it out at all or if I need to get in there and clean it manually? Any ideas?
Old 01-13-2008, 04:47 PM
  #9605  
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ORIGINAL: AKFireMedic


ORIGINAL: w8ye

It shouldn't get much worse.
Well, I suppose I expected it wouldn't get worse. I was just wondering if running the new fuel will clean it out at all or if I need to get in there and clean it manually? Any ideas?
Do you mean that the exhaust valve itself has a lot of carbon on it and you are worried about it seating correctly?
Old 01-13-2008, 05:48 PM
  #9606  
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The only way to get the carbon off is to remove the valve and wire brush the carbon off.

Removing the valve is sometimes problematic in the the valve tip will be peened over and will not com out of the head without honing it off.
Old 01-13-2008, 06:12 PM
  #9607  
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HI, I'm new to this site and just getting back into the Hobby (R/C Airplanes). So - reading some of the very informative and interesting post leave me with all kinds of questions.
For starters, and anyone tell me where you can buy a Cline Regulator? I have searched every why I know how on the internet and cannot come up with a sales source. Help?? Thanks.
Old 01-13-2008, 06:17 PM
  #9608  
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I think it is listed under Bill's room
http://www.billsroom.com/pcfs/fuelsysdesc.htm
Old 01-13-2008, 06:51 PM
  #9609  
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Bill Robison suggested soaking the cylinder upside down with, I think, acetone to dissolve the deposits. I almost suggested doing that with glow fuel overnight, and then reinspect. I'm just not 100% sure Bill was using acetone. You could also use Dawn Power Dissolver for about an hour and see if it works. I don't know about how well it would dissolve carbon deposits yet.
Old 01-13-2008, 07:18 PM
  #9610  
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Thanks for the information. Took me right to the Cline web site. I just bought a Saito 180 I am planning on putting in a Giant Super Sportster. It appears the fuel tank will be a little higher than desireable. I'm hoping the regulator will solve that problem is it does turn out that way. But another question. It looks like you should be about to just turn the entire intake pipe, carb and all around 180 degrees if you needed to to get it even with the tank. Has anyone ever done that?
Old 01-13-2008, 07:31 PM
  #9611  
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Hi Guys,

I missed this forum... for some reason, the updates stopped coming. Glad to see that it's still alive and well. Just getting back on here, so I've missed a lot over the past month or so.

Bill Robison used to tell about a place called RC Bearings, but I'm not sure that I have the correct website. The site that I get to seems to have its URL for sale.

Can anyone tell me if RC Bearings is still active, and what their URL is?

Thanks,

Bob
Old 01-13-2008, 08:00 PM
  #9612  
johnS555
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RC Bearings .com
Old 01-13-2008, 08:17 PM
  #9613  
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OK, got it. I was typing it in with the hyphen in the wrong place. It's http://www.rc-bearings.com/

Thanks,

Bob
Old 01-13-2008, 08:28 PM
  #9614  
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Hi I have used a product Made by Stihl( the chainsaw company) to remove Carbon. I belive it was called EDT(It's been a while) I used it on a 4stroke and was pleased with the results. I didn't have to remove valves, just soaked for around 20hrs with ex valve open.
Old 01-13-2008, 08:53 PM
  #9615  
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Hi We3R/C,

My prolblem is a little bit different. Turned my plane into a lawn dart. Buried it up to the firewall, no exageration.

Thanks for the tip on that EDT though. I wish I had known about that a few months ago when I rebuild an ancient Saito 120. Carbon city! I think I know a place that I pass on my way to work that might have Stilh products. I'll stop in there and check them out.

Bob
Old 01-13-2008, 09:50 PM
  #9616  
Michaelh
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So anybody want to be the guinee pig? Check this stuff http://www.ferret.com.au/c/Avanti-Ch...system-n668721 Seems it has to be hot tanked but the chemicals are safe and biodegrade. Also has corrosion and rust inhibitors .
Old 01-13-2008, 10:27 PM
  #9617  
rexracer
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Rear bearing was bottomed. i think the old front bearing may not have been bottomed. When I put the crank in without the cam gear and spacer, it went in all the way, so the rear bearing wasn't interfering. I wondeer if the spacer was maybe the wrong one. I took about .005" off of the spacer,and it all went back together fine. I'll run it when I get some good weather.
Old 01-14-2008, 03:52 AM
  #9618  
Ernie Misner
 
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About the Cline regulator, is it okay to use fuel with castor in it? I understand that the YS engines can't use castor because they have a diphram, and the Cline also has a diaphram. (gets gooed up or something)

Thanks,

Ernie
Old 01-14-2008, 04:26 AM
  #9619  
AKFireMedic
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Hmm, good info. It still has great compression so I really don't want to disassemble it just to clean it up. I might try to soak it in glow then run it and see if most of it blows out.
Old 01-14-2008, 08:02 AM
  #9620  
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Ernie, you can use castor in the Cline and in YSs as long as you run them regularly.
Old 01-14-2008, 08:09 AM
  #9621  
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The internal parts for the Cline can be bought at most any weed whacker/chainsaw repair shop. The Standard Walbro WAT diaphragm kit is all it takes.
Old 01-14-2008, 04:15 PM
  #9622  
Ernie Misner
 
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Good Cline info guys. Sounds like even if you did run castor and then were going to let it sit for a while that you could run some synthetic through it right before winter sets in.

Thanks loads,

Ernie
Old 01-14-2008, 06:02 PM
  #9623  
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Hey guys

I broke the fuel nipple on my saito 72. I looked on horizons site but it looks like you have to buy the carb body too? Does anyone know of one i can use?
Old 01-14-2008, 06:13 PM
  #9624  
Tbone4life
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Try this link.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI30S147
Old 01-14-2008, 06:14 PM
  #9625  
Tbone4life
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or this one.

http://search.horizonhobby.com/index...d=1177A93BAF7C


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