Welcome to Club SAITO !
09-04-2008, 02:26 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: beaver180
Engine cleaning update.... Using a Dishwasher tablet ( with "Powerball" ) in 2 pints of near boiling water cleans the gunk and gum off very well. A wee tip though, Only submerse and let the parts soak for only a quick minute or two otherwise the Alloy casing can go a duller colour. I found dunking for a minute or so and then using wife's toothbrush scrub the yuck off. Oh and I used wife's good pot for the washing too
Then I thoroughly rinsed the parts in hot water and dried off with a dryer.
Cheers Guys, Paul
Engine cleaning update.... Using a Dishwasher tablet ( with "Powerball" ) in 2 pints of near boiling water cleans the gunk and gum off very well. A wee tip though, Only submerse and let the parts soak for only a quick minute or two otherwise the Alloy casing can go a duller colour. I found dunking for a minute or so and then using wife's toothbrush scrub the yuck off. Oh and I used wife's good pot for the washing too
Then I thoroughly rinsed the parts in hot water and dried off with a dryer.
Cheers Guys, Paul
Speaking of engine degunking methods.
I recently heard you can clean an engine well in hot anti-freeze.
Has anyone tried this? I realize you have to take some precautions, like DON'T do it in the house for one ( fumes) DON'T do it where animals might end up drinking the stuff.
But has anyone tried this succesfully? As with the detergent mentioned above, does it have any adverse effect on the metal? I know anti-freeze is caustic .......
Oh and Paul? Your wife wants to know why her teeth are now all black! LOL
09-04-2008, 03:13 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Yes, I have cleaned an engine with anti freeze. I got a Saito FA-65 that was on a plane that crashed in the woods and I could not find it. Ten months later someone found it and returned it to me. The parts with iron in them had some rust. I took the engine apart and put it in a crock pot with pure anti freeze and let it cook for 36 hours. It came out real clean and all the rust was gone. I have been told that this method of cleaning parts works well on almost all automotive parts that can be submersed in anti freeze.
09-04-2008, 03:23 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Beaver,
I slow cook in anti-freeze , if I have any really tough spot I have a spray can of graffiti remover. One shot , let it stand for about 10 seconds , and rinse well with water. My 72 looks like brand new.
Andy
I slow cook in anti-freeze , if I have any really tough spot I have a spray can of graffiti remover. One shot , let it stand for about 10 seconds , and rinse well with water. My 72 looks like brand new.
Andy
09-04-2008, 04:26 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have never used anti-freeze it but know a few people who have. They say if you get the solution to hot or leave it to long it discolors the material but diffently cleans it.
Remember to remove any rubber or gaskets.
Below is a copy of a previous post I wrote.
[:-]
Take a look at this http://www.bj-model-engines.com/Demo..._11-11-05.html
You may want to try it.
I recently sent for some of this but haven't used it yet. I've been told it works good.
Shubova
[8D]
Remember to remove any rubber or gaskets.
Below is a copy of a previous post I wrote.
[:-]
Take a look at this http://www.bj-model-engines.com/Demo..._11-11-05.html
You may want to try it.
I recently sent for some of this but haven't used it yet. I've been told it works good.
Shubova
[8D]
09-04-2008, 07:20 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: beaver180
Hey ya Guys...
I'm about ready to re assemble my 150 and am wondering if it matters where the gap in the piston ring goes???
and I heat the casing in the oven to what temperature fit the new bearings aye??
Engine cleaning update.... Using a Dishwasher tablet ( with "Powerball" ) in 2 pints of near boiling water cleans the gunk and gum off very well. A wee tip though, Only submerse and let the parts soak for only a quick minute or two otherwise the Alloy casing can go a duller colour. I found dunking for a minute or so and then using wife's toothbrush scrub the yuck off. Oh and I used wife's good pot for the washing too
Then I thoroughly rinsed the parts in hot water and dried off with a dryer.
Cheers Guys, Paul
Hey ya Guys...
I'm about ready to re assemble my 150 and am wondering if it matters where the gap in the piston ring goes???
and I heat the casing in the oven to what temperature fit the new bearings aye??
Engine cleaning update.... Using a Dishwasher tablet ( with "Powerball" ) in 2 pints of near boiling water cleans the gunk and gum off very well. A wee tip though, Only submerse and let the parts soak for only a quick minute or two otherwise the Alloy casing can go a duller colour. I found dunking for a minute or so and then using wife's toothbrush scrub the yuck off. Oh and I used wife's good pot for the washing too
Then I thoroughly rinsed the parts in hot water and dried off with a dryer.
Cheers Guys, Paul
09-04-2008, 08:46 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Yeah I tried that link Shubby... wants more than the product itself costs to send it to me, so I did the Dishwasher tablet way. Worked very very well and I didn't have to boil for a day or two.
Thanks w8ye for the ring info, Cheers
Thanks w8ye for the ring info, Cheers
09-05-2008, 06:36 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hopefully one of you can help me. Somewhere in the forum I read a concise set of instructions on the proper procedure for setting up a Saito with the old air bleed (I think) carb that has a large brass disk on the side. Anyone know where I can find this? Thanks in advance, Paul
09-05-2008, 07:21 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
It was in this thread some years ago SOMEWHERE. All that has to be done is find it. It may also be in the Saito notes Sticky at the top of the first page of the glow forum.
09-05-2008, 07:26 PM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Here it is . . . . .
Kmot's 120 
Carb adjust – air bleed type
Your carb is an air bleed, but Saito doesn't use your granddaddy's OS type air bleed. It is fully adjustable; idle, mid range, and high speed.
Hobbsy pointed out the idle adjustment, the Phillips head screw beside the throttle lever. Set it as he said, with the screw midway across the hole to start.
The mid range adjustment is done by turning the bronze colored disc on the needle valve end, start with its index set to neutral. Note the black line on the disc and the cast mark on the carb body in the first picture.
The adjustment has to be done high speed, then mid range, then idle. Any other order you'll be chasing the adjustments forever.
HS is normal, go to full throttle and peak the engine, then richen it for 300-400 rpm drop. Go to half throttle and let the engine stabilize, then pinch the fuel hose. When it's right the rpm will rise a little, then fall. Immediate fall is too lean. Adjustment is by rotating the bronze disc. Turn the disc to raise its index mark above the mark on the body to go lean, or down to go rich.
When you have the high and mid range working fine trim the air bleed for best transition first, and best idle second.
Things to be wary of
Make sure your throttle linkage does not pull the throttle lever away from the carb, the inner end of the throttle barrel is the moving part of the regulator valve, if the barrel is pulled out the engine will go to full rich. On the lever end of the barrel is a wire spring that keeps the barrel pushed against the disc on the other end, be sure it is there and is holding the barrel. Second picture. Finally, the regulator valve depends on the oil in the fuel for sealing. Synthetic oil wont do it. Castor oil is 100% necessary. But again, a blend with three to four percent of the total fuel volume will work.
Your carb is an air bleed, but Saito doesn't use your granddaddy's OS type air bleed. It is fully adjustable; idle, mid range, and high speed.
Hobbsy pointed out the idle adjustment, the Phillips head screw beside the throttle lever. Set it as he said, with the screw midway across the hole to start.
The mid range adjustment is done by turning the bronze colored disc on the needle valve end, start with its index set to neutral. Note the black line on the disc and the cast mark on the carb body in the first picture.
The adjustment has to be done high speed, then mid range, then idle. Any other order you'll be chasing the adjustments forever.
HS is normal, go to full throttle and peak the engine, then richen it for 300-400 rpm drop. Go to half throttle and let the engine stabilize, then pinch the fuel hose. When it's right the rpm will rise a little, then fall. Immediate fall is too lean. Adjustment is by rotating the bronze disc. Turn the disc to raise its index mark above the mark on the body to go lean, or down to go rich.
When you have the high and mid range working fine trim the air bleed for best transition first, and best idle second.
Things to be wary of
Make sure your throttle linkage does not pull the throttle lever away from the carb, the inner end of the throttle barrel is the moving part of the regulator valve, if the barrel is pulled out the engine will go to full rich. On the lever end of the barrel is a wire spring that keeps the barrel pushed against the disc on the other end, be sure it is there and is holding the barrel. Second picture. Finally, the regulator valve depends on the oil in the fuel for sealing. Synthetic oil wont do it. Castor oil is 100% necessary. But again, a blend with three to four percent of the total fuel volume will work.
09-06-2008, 08:31 AM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hi all,
Looking for some advise from some of the Saito guru's out there. I have recently purchased a Saito 82a for my Piper Pawnee and am really struggling to work out how on earth I get an aluminium spinner to fit. The spinner backplate is fine but the nut will not fit onto the thread as its way to small. Is there something I am missing here or some sort of adapter I need to buy in order for it to fit. If anyone out there knows the type of nut I need and maybe the size in metric and imperial it would be of great help. Obviously, I am on the other side of the water so may have a job sourcing the part.
Any help is much appreciated.
Regards
Mark
Looking for some advise from some of the Saito guru's out there. I have recently purchased a Saito 82a for my Piper Pawnee and am really struggling to work out how on earth I get an aluminium spinner to fit. The spinner backplate is fine but the nut will not fit onto the thread as its way to small. Is there something I am missing here or some sort of adapter I need to buy in order for it to fit. If anyone out there knows the type of nut I need and maybe the size in metric and imperial it would be of great help. Obviously, I am on the other side of the water so may have a job sourcing the part.
Any help is much appreciated.
Regards
Mark
09-06-2008, 08:55 AM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Go to the Tru Turn web site. They sell different adapter nuts http://www.tru-turn.com/
Your thread size is 7mm X 1mm. Use Tru-Turn Adapter Kit TT-0718-A (7x1.0mm/8mm); this adapter does not have a jam nut. Another adapter TT-0717A has a jam nut and is the one recommended on the Tru-Turn web site
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHMF2&P=7 TT-0718-A
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNV03&P=7 TT-0717-A
Your thread size is 7mm X 1mm. Use Tru-Turn Adapter Kit TT-0718-A (7x1.0mm/8mm); this adapter does not have a jam nut. Another adapter TT-0717A has a jam nut and is the one recommended on the Tru-Turn web site
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHMF2&P=7 TT-0718-A
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNV03&P=7 TT-0717-A
09-06-2008, 09:37 AM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
r335,
I have had very good success with my .82s, .91, and 3.00 twin using these adapters and spinners: http://dbproducts.com/
And have found that they work very well in conjunction with these prop-locks: http://members.aol.com/harryhig/EngineAccessories1.htm
The prop locks are thin and will leave enough thread on the propeller shaft to allow placement of the spinner adapter.
The large-area prop lock is used as a first nut and washer, the adapter is then used as a lock-nut and spinner mounting point. On one of the .82s the extension on the adapter needed to be shortened just a mm or two.
No doubt the Tru-Turns would be fine also, I just have no first-hand experience with them.
As w8ye said, the .82 is a 7x1mm thread.
Good luck
I have had very good success with my .82s, .91, and 3.00 twin using these adapters and spinners: http://dbproducts.com/
And have found that they work very well in conjunction with these prop-locks: http://members.aol.com/harryhig/EngineAccessories1.htm
The prop locks are thin and will leave enough thread on the propeller shaft to allow placement of the spinner adapter.
The large-area prop lock is used as a first nut and washer, the adapter is then used as a lock-nut and spinner mounting point. On one of the .82s the extension on the adapter needed to be shortened just a mm or two.
No doubt the Tru-Turns would be fine also, I just have no first-hand experience with them.
As w8ye said, the .82 is a 7x1mm thread.
Good luck
09-06-2008, 10:48 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Just bought a 220 for my GS Spitfire. A bit concirned about propsize now. The ground clearance is far from adaquate on the Spitfire so I was wondering what have others ran on this engine, at the lower end of the scale. I was considering using an 18x10 but really not sure.
Dave
Dave
09-06-2008, 11:58 PM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Prop clearance a problem then go 3 blade.... general rule is to drop an inch off the dia and add inch to pitch. Look good on a Spitty too
09-07-2008, 12:36 AM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have been looking at that as a solution but props seem to be hard to find, plus 41/2'' 3 blade spinners are a small fortune. I fancy the more scale look but can't find what seems to be reasonable value, True turn want 130USD for a spinner unless of coarse you can direct me.
Regarding the size, I was thinking the 220 would swing a 20x8 2 blade, so a 18x8 3 blade would be ideal, but how would the engine cope with a 16x10 3 blade maybe.
Regarding the size, I was thinking the 220 would swing a 20x8 2 blade, so a 18x8 3 blade would be ideal, but how would the engine cope with a 16x10 3 blade maybe.
09-07-2008, 01:34 AM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hiya....
Just starting to put the 150 back together after replacing the bearings. I have the bearings and crank back in and refitted the timing gear cam thing. I hope I did it right?? had the big end pin bit on the crank pointed straight up ( TDC ) and dropped the timing gear bit into place with the timing mark straight down.
Have now replaced the head and made sure the tappet rods seated etc, but now I am having trouble putting the prop drive back on the crank [
] Do I heat this in the oven too like I did the crank case when fitting the bearing????
Don't think I'm doing too bad for my first 4 stroke rebuild, any more tips of rebuilding guys??
Cheers, PAul
Just starting to put the 150 back together after replacing the bearings. I have the bearings and crank back in and refitted the timing gear cam thing. I hope I did it right?? had the big end pin bit on the crank pointed straight up ( TDC ) and dropped the timing gear bit into place with the timing mark straight down.
Have now replaced the head and made sure the tappet rods seated etc, but now I am having trouble putting the prop drive back on the crank [
] Do I heat this in the oven too like I did the crank case when fitting the bearing????Don't think I'm doing too bad for my first 4 stroke rebuild, any more tips of rebuilding guys??
Cheers, PAul
09-07-2008, 06:05 AM
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Rebuilding?? move to the north island ya mug.Being a cabinet maker by trade and a trukkie too you've got it all stitched up..cook straights in the road tho
ps had to
ps had to
09-07-2008, 07:24 AM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hobbsy,
Thank you. This is what is concerning me.
I did not realise how hard three blade spinners and props are to get hold of once you go beyond 4'' and 16'', unless your willing to pay 130usd+.
Thanks so much for the help
Thank you. This is what is concerning me.
I did not realise how hard three blade spinners and props are to get hold of once you go beyond 4'' and 16'', unless your willing to pay 130usd+.
Thanks so much for the help
09-07-2008, 07:41 AM
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
http://www.zingerpropeller.com/3_bladed_Propeller.htm
Take a look at these, I have a couple of the 12x7s I use on Diesels, the blades are replaceable and $40 bucks isn't too bad.
PS, its about 2/3rds of the way down in the center column.
Take a look at these, I have a couple of the 12x7s I use on Diesels, the blades are replaceable and $40 bucks isn't too bad.
PS, its about 2/3rds of the way down in the center column.