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Welcome to Club SAITO !

Old 01-07-2012, 02:09 PM
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Thanks, for the information but I'm not new to four strokes. I have three Saitos 1.8 and one OS 1.2. I have never experienced anything like this with the other engines. I'm beginning to feel this this new year will haunt me with engine problems be they glow or gas. I have a Zenoah EI 20cc gas engine that is drawing air bubbles on the feed line. I ordered a new tank assembly and hopefully this will cure the problem.
Old 01-07-2012, 04:33 PM
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If it's NIB they come from the factory with the HSN fully closed but i'm assuming you have wound the main needle about four turns out?
Old 01-07-2012, 04:46 PM
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ORIGINAL: flycatch

I have a problem and need advice. I purchased a Saito 220 NIB and proceeded to bench test it. When I advance past 1/2 throttle setting the engine backfires violently throwing the complete spinner assembly. Is this engine defective?
My 125 did this twice during static break in, anditwas so loud and violent the first time it happenedI thought it threw the rod and destroyed the engine.It hasn't done it again since break in and subsequent leaning of the LS needle and it didn't seem to cause any damage - It runs great now.
Old 01-07-2012, 04:49 PM
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Your username fits your reply.
Old 01-07-2012, 05:40 PM
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A new engine with extra internal drag and less compression, because the rings are not seated, will require to be run with a extra rich mixture until the parts get worn into each other. Then the mixture can be set leaner but the smoke trail sound be maintained.
Old 01-07-2012, 05:48 PM
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If the low speed needle is set too lean, the mixture at high speed can go lean no matter how far out the high speed needle due to the design of the carb.

You can have the engine sounding rich at low mid throttle. Advance to full throttle and the high speed mixture may, in fact, actually be lean.

Watch yourself carefully about the relative mixture at the different speeds.

To prevent some of this, Hobbsey recomends having the low speed mixture needle set rather rich in the beginning.

The first step is to set the high speed needle to peak but just keep the throttle there for a second.

Then adjust the low speed mixture as lean as you can get it with the engine still being able to take the gas without backfire.

You can usually hear the begining of a backfire before one actually happens, Back off at this time and richen the needle.

Some new Saitos with rings not seated and the mixture set rich will get very juicy and wet all over with oil.
Old 01-08-2012, 06:46 PM
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Hey Guys interesting stuff, I bought a 220 Glo also and had the prop and spinner explode of the engine after back firing...I immediately bought the (Dubro I think) locking nut for double security.....1 minute before I was leaning over the engine playing with the main jet with the prop 7-8 inches from my juggler vein .....I shudder to think if it had happened then...

I little of track here...I just picked up an older Saito .45 which obviously needs a new main bearing...where's the best place to get a new one?
Old 01-08-2012, 07:12 PM
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The 2.20 comes with double nuts that will not back off even when a severe backfire occurs. The prop will be loose after the backfire due to the serrated face on the prop driver removing wood or plastic from the back of the prop.
Old 01-08-2012, 09:59 PM
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Yes indeed...this was new wooden prop...I usually use fiberglass reinforced props ( or what ever they are made of)...I think the wood had compressed from the previous runs and loosened...stupid me for not thinking to re-tighten inbetween.....
Old 01-09-2012, 05:05 AM
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There's a vid on youtube of some european guy guy twisting needles really quick while tuning his engine,it backfires and gets him good in the chest area..scared me
Old 01-09-2012, 09:45 AM
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RCBearings.com

they'll take good care of ya.



gotta watch those pesky props....
Old 01-09-2012, 11:55 AM
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After watching those you-tubevids, and the article in RCM with the endblade of a prop barried in the woodenrun-up table, it made abeliver ofme. I use to bend over the front of the plan to adjust the needles, I now only do it from behind the plane. The only time Iam in front of the plane is when I am starting it.
Old 01-09-2012, 12:57 PM
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Thanks Charlie, Called RC Bearings...Order is in the works already.. mega
Old 01-09-2012, 06:00 PM
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ORIGINAL: Sharpeye22

After watching those you-tube vids, and the article in RCM with the end blade of a prop barried in the wooden run-up table, it made a beliver of me. I use to bend over the front of the plan to adjust the needles, I now only do it from behind the plane. The only time I am in front of the plane is when I am starting it.
This is the ONLY way to do it!!! NEVER lean over the engine to adjust it. ALWAYS walk around after it starts and adjust it from behing. The applies to all engines.
Old 01-21-2012, 08:13 AM
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We've got 2 new members who contacted me via PM. They are:

rxwarrior #779
kwblake #780
Old 01-21-2012, 08:27 AM
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Thanks very much Barry. Hope you are feeling better.
Old 01-23-2012, 03:34 PM
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Thanks Barry hurry up and get well so you can go flying.


Rick

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Old 01-27-2012, 05:56 PM
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Hello all,i have a question on saito airbleed carbies.The twin carb setup on my 182.The factory manual i have says that the airbleed screws are to be set at 1/5th and 2/5ths out respectively.Why is this so?when the carbs look identical each side?..cheers
Old 01-27-2012, 06:35 PM
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I set my air bleed needles half way across the holes and the engine idles fine.

Maybe they meant from 1/5 to 2/5ths for each one?
Old 01-27-2012, 07:41 PM
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I went and looked in the current manual and I cannot find anything about the 2/5ths & 1/5ths bit?
Old 01-28-2012, 05:11 AM
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Morning Jim, I did the same last evening and it only says to make it run correctly using approximately 1/8th turn changes. When I had my 1.30 I set them at the halfway point and they didn't need changed.
Old 01-28-2012, 05:20 AM
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+1
Old 01-28-2012, 04:06 PM
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My brand new Saito 125 abruptly seized stopped (seized up) during break in and running rich. Here's the running in procedure which I followed by the manual. (1) Break in on a test stand runnng quite rich and under 4000 rpms; 4 x 12 ozs tanks with no problem. I lubricated the engine with after run oil and airtool oil. I left it in storage for a few months until i finished building my TF Hawker Sea Fury. (2) Last September I installed the engine on the model and I decided to keep breaking in this engine, using the same techniques. On the second tank-full and half way the engine abruptly stopped and seized to a point that the pcrankshaft would not turn. (3) Engine was sent in to Horizon Hobby to be checked out and here's the report:

(4) Upon inspection, it was found that the connecting rod was seized to the crankpin on the crankshaft. The rear bearing was found to be turning rough. The parts were replaced and the engine was tested. The engine ran great. It had an idle at 2000rpms and a top-end at 8800rpms. using a 16x6 prop.


(5) The prop that i was using was a 15x6 3-blade Graupner. Will give this engine another run in the spring. Why it seized i really don't know. I followed all procedures.
Old 01-28-2012, 05:56 PM
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I've seen several new ones seize at the connecting rod on the crank pin. I just free'd them up and they ran fine. I never replaced any parts. It takes a little working with the rod to get it going.
Old 01-28-2012, 06:31 PM
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

On the same subject, 1.25 engine; I was running one the other day, trying to set the needles. I was running about 7900 rpm with a 16-6 prop. The engine started to make a clacking noise. Would anyone have an idea what that might be?

Bob

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