Thunderchild

Thanks Bill,

I tried that but it keeps telling me my picture is too big. I have tried shrinking said picture to less than 7kb but am having trouble getting under 13kb.

TC

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

TC, you need to resize it to 85x85 pixels.

Bill, what size prop copuld I try on the 1.25 to verify whether it has more or les power than the 1.20? On 10% nitro of course.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

TC:

If you post your desired picturebhere I'll resize it and bring it back for you.
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Dave:

A 15x8 prop should be in the ball park, you might want to try a 16x6 and 14x10 also, one engine might do better with one, and the other do better with a different one. They are very close, the FA-120 might give you about 10 mph more air speed, but the FA-125 could still give better vertical with its six ounces less weight.

Bill.

Thunderchild

For Bill,

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loughbd

Contentious? He's probably correct.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

TC:

Here are two versions. The first is cropped only as needed for resizing, the other was done to have the plane as large as possible in the result.

Use either, or tell me how you would better like the cropping.

Bill.

EDIT>> Added a lightened version. wr.

FFOURU

I mounted my Saito 120 inverted on my T/F G/E Corsair yesterday. I'm using an aluminum mount with Gator vibration dampners. The problem I have is that the carb & throttle arm are too close to the fire wall. It doesn't look like there will be room for a clevis, unless it will go inside the goldenrod tube. I don't think I like that idea. Can I attach a lever to the side of the engine mount, and run the throttle linkage to the bottom of the lever, and then run a link from the top of the lever to the carb? Does anyone have a photo of a setup like that?

Also, my engine is a 94 or 95 model. The throttle arm on the carb is held on by a cap screw. I can't find the LS adjustment screw?? The manual that came with the engine is barely written in english, and it shows the LS adjustment in the center of the throttle arm (like my new engines), and it just doesn't appear to be there.

SigMan

My Feedback: (21)

where can i buy a mallory metal prop?

SigMan

My Feedback: (21)

whats up with (AWAITING APPROVAL) in my e-mail ?

FFOURU

Photos of the 120 & carb with cap screw attaching the throttle arm???

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The LS screw is the phillips head screw in the picture, it's an airbleed trim screw. Set it halfway across the hole for a starting place.

Jack211

FF, one way to avoid the clevis issue, or making humpty-bump turns with piano wire, on your 120 is to use a cable attached with a brass nipple as in the picture. I've used the same device with my Can Dos, as well. Never had any trouble with them and the cable moves freely, flexing as it has to so close to the firewall. Lightens the load on the servo, too.

Jack

solafein

Take an old control rod, from a plane that has gone past it's expiration date, of the proper size to thread into the Golden Rod. Cut a piece, from the threaded end, long enough to thread into the Golden rod and to make a "Z" bend at the throttle arm. It gets easy at this point. I would show you a picture of it installed in a plane but all of mine have expired.

loughbd

February or march issue of RC Report

FFOURU

Thanks for the suggestions.
I decided to just use a servo arm, drill & tap a hole in the side of the mount and set it up as in the photo. Hope it works OK.

FFOURU

Better view of linkage

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

I've set up four Saitos with a linkage similar to yours. They are 4-Stroke linkages from DuBro and have all worked perfectly. Your use of the servo arm is a little more in keeping with the spirit of modeling! Nice work.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

F, that's pretty much the way I make mine, I use a piece of fuel tubing for a bushing in a servo arm, they have zero lost motion, very precise.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

FFOURU:

Your carb is an air bleed, but Saito doesn't use your granddaddy's OS type air bleed. It is fully adjustable; idle, mid range, and high speed.

Hobbsy pointed out the idle adjustment, the Phillips head screw beside the throttle lever. Set it as he said, with the screw midway across the hole to start.

The mid range adjustment is done by turning the bronze colored disc on the needle valve end, start with its index set to neutral. Note the black line on the disc and the cast mark on the carb body in the first picture.

The adjustment has to be done high speed, then mid range, then idle. Any other order you'll be chasing the adjustments forever.

HS is normal, go to full throttle and peak the engine, then richen it for 300-400 rpm drop. Go to half throttle and let the engine stabilize, then pinch the fuel hose. When it's right the rpm will rise a little, then fall. Immediate fall is too lean. Adjustment is by rotating the bronze disc. Turn the disc to raise its index mark above the mark on the body to go lean, or down to go rich.

When you have the high and mid range working fine trim the air bleed for best transition first, and best idle second.

Things to be wary of. Make sure your throttle linkage does not pull the throttle lever away from the carb, the inner end of the throttle barrel is the moving part of the regulator valve, if the barrel is pulled out the engine will go to full rich. On the lever end of the barrel is a wire spring that keeps the barrel pushed against the disc on the other end, be sure it is there and is holding the barrel. Second picture. Finally, the regulator valve depends on the oil in the fuel for sealing. Synthetic oil wont do it. Castor oil is 100% necessary. But again, a blend with three to four percent of the total fuel volume will work.

Hope this is of some help to you, I've been intending to do a complete tutorial on the Saito AB carbs, still haven't done it.

Bill.

FFOURU

Man.......... What a wealth of knowledge. I can't thank you guys enough. I would probably never figure this stuff out by myself, and the manual that came with the engine back in the mid 90's when I bought the engine new doesn't talk about any of this stuff. Once again, Thanks very much!

When I pulled the engine out of storage, it had been bench run for about an hour, and I had no idea that I needed to oil it down for storage. You guessed it, it was locked up. I sent it to Horizon, and they put in a new piston and bearings, and bench ran it some more. The note that came back with it said that it was in good condition, and ran very well. I haven't started it since I got it back, but I will be running it in the new airframe (hopefully) by the first of the month.

Sincerely, Thanks!

FFOURU

Now a sort of stupid question. My fuel tank will be "higher" than the carb. I don't have a choice here, except to remount the engine Jug Up, and I really don't want to do that. How do I deal with the siphon problem with the tank higher than the carb?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

FFOURU:

Lo siento mucho, pero no puedo ayudarle.

That's a fancy Castillian way of saying you're screwed.

Actually, it's not that bad. If the tank isn't too much higher than the carb, once you get it running it should be OK. So long as it doesn't go lean inverted you can live with it. But it probably will drain the tank when it's not running.

Didn't you say it was going in another Corsair? Just hang the engine sideways and forget it. If you insist on inverted, and you can't get it to run properly you'll have to go qith one of the fuel regulators.

As I said, "Lo siento..."

Bill.

Thunderchild

Thanks heaps Bill,

As you can see I am the proud owner of a new avatar!!

I like the way it populates all my old posts too. Neat!!

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Gawldang, but those are some close up photos! [sm=thumbup.gif]

powerlines

ANOTHER Question..
This may be a dumb question. Saito 100 with Perry pump. Bambula 16x6 prop. 8750 RPM. Is this OK
I will have to get to the Hobby shop to get some 15x6 props..

Motor is not bogging none at all. Just like a Satio. Sucker has mounds of power. I feel like it will snatch the old Funtana 90s around like crazy.

LATER