buzzard bait

I had a 25X once with that muffler. It is the same as the 25/30SS muffler except made to be strapped on instead of bolted on. In my opinion they are terrible mufflers. Quite restrictive and very noisy. If you can find something else to adapt to it you're probably better off.

Jim

Telemaster Sales UK

Just Engines in England supply a strap-on BCM universal silencer. It's expensive but if you want to use the engine in an aeroplane it might be an option.

Here's the link but you may have to scroll down a bit. Just Engines Two Stroke Silencers

GallopingGhostler

pminnick might be able to use a Tatone 29-40 Peacepipe muffler. They occasionally come up in Ebay. They are best suited toward the lower end of their range. Here, I successfully fitted the 29-40 to my Enya .19-VI TV engine. The 09-19 was too small for it, works fine on my Enya .09-III TV.

buzzard bait

In the U.S, might as well get BCM right from the source...Bisson Custom Mufflers Even so, they are not cheap. Macs had strap-on mufflers, but I guess they are out of business.

I haven't tried a Peace Pipe; I remember someone saying they weren't very peaceful, but it probably helps to stick to the bottom end of the range, as above. I found Tatone's Calumet muffler to be unacceptably restrictive even after grinding it out on the inside. There are other old ones on ebay from time to time.

Might be best to attach a hose clamp to a modern muffler with screws. I used a GMS 32 muffler that way on something I can't remember, but it worked.

GallopingGhostler

On the Internet, opinions abound, some truthful , some exaggerated , some folklore.

Here, I used a narrow stainless steel hose clamp to install a YS muffler on an older Testors McCoy .40 Black Head C/L engine of the 1970's. It's a little on the heavy side, but with a decent chamber it runs well without overheating or robbing power. I'm targeting it for a larger control line plane with at least 500 square inches of wing area.

Yes, if one decides to use the Calumet, carefully grind out most of the internal baffle leaving just enough to support the screw that holds both top and bottom sides together so that the muffler halves don't collapse when tightened. Use only on engines toward the lower spectrum of size or smaller, definitely not larger engines. I put the Calumet EM-4 for ".09-.19" on a Testors McCoy .19 Red Head with baffles removed, it still ran hot.

I attempted to convert it to a tongue muffler by drilling additional holes in it. I ended up with a situation where yes, it ran better but was as loud as an unmuffled engine. I have another that I removed baffles and mounted to an Enya .09-III venturi version, a better fit but haven't test run it yet. It it works, I may take the other I modified, JB Weld the holes shut, JB Weld an aluminum plate cut out for the other Enya .09 to cover the larger McCoy .19 cut out. Got a C/L profile twin for the Enya's.

These older legacy engines of the 1950's weren't designed with mufflers in mind. A good tipoff is the McCoy head design. Heads have minimal fins, weren't designed to carry away the additional heat from muffler use. In addition to that, the Tatones of the 1960's were a good intent, but their design in reducing decibel levels weren't optimum for the sizes stated, which contributed to further running hot. I am told by those who used them that many an engine was ruined through overheating. This is not hard to understand when one looks at their physical characteristics and chamber sizes. However when they were offered, they were cheap and readily available.

But with some common sense and simple modifications, fitting them on a size range and engine that is best suited, they can be made to work.

buzzard bait

The Enya 25X was designed to use a muffler, so the fins are fine. An adaptation like the first one above is what I was suggesting. Sometimes you have to drill holes for the screws as was probably done above. I've done that, even 90 degrees to the hole that was already there; seems to be fine. My experience with the Calumet soured me on the old Tatones.

GallopingGhostler

Yes, that is true, I was referring to earlier engines, mostly prior to the mid 1960's, a few later. IMO, Enya did a decent job of muffling along with OS in their engines of the mid 1960's and on. Toward the end of the 1960's, there was increasing concern over losing flying fields due to model engine noise with nearby neighbors to the flying field. Gone was the attitudes of the early 1960's and before, where adults overall viewed such noises as "healthy noise".

Adults back then viewed these noisy activities as keeping boys and young men out of trouble by keeping them occupied with then considered safe, non-criminal or non-borderline activities. Mid 1960's, that was changing. I remember one female adult neighbor, who threatened to call the cops on us 10 and 11 year old boys bike riding, who tied partially inflated sausage balloons as an improved "motorcycle like" sound over playing cards striking wheel spokes. Those made a considerably louder "thump" with easy stroke of the spoke. 6 to 10 boys riding down the street made a racket. May be that is why I now do motorcycles, too.

I even remember in the early 1960's of older boys riding bicycles with sirens that sounded just like the ones on emergency vehicles. They were mechanical, spun up by a wheel that rotated off the bicycle tire. No one got into trouble because the adults considered it safe kids play, imitating the real world.

Anyway, attitudes toward engine noise changed over time where such is now viewed as intrusive instead of "healthy", my apologies for deviating a little.

I wish pminnick the best of luck in finding the right muffler for his situation.

the pope

I love those old school mufflers . A bit like art deco .

Mr Cox

It should be possible to adapt a regular muffler using a strap instead I think. On can use the band from a hose clamp for instance and then have an extra adjustment too.

I don't have any .25X myself but the muffler for the .21X looks the same as the one on the Enya .19 IV;

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

It wouldn't hurt to check with J'TEC Radiowave they do custom build their mufflers to fit and the prices are reasonable.

GallopingGhostler

Agreed, makes for interesting conversation with the younger generation (those 50 and under ), who are only familiar with the latest "nitro" engines.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I saw a couple of old Tatone strap-on mufflers at the last swap meet I went to I wish I could have bought them. I found more to buy then I brought money to buy them with! The bummer is half the sellers were old guys retiring from the hobby!

GallopingGhostler

They occasionally come up for sale on E-Bay. Not long ago I picked up the larger NOS EM-2 Tatone .29-.40 Calumet off the 'bay for a reasonable price, might mount that to an Enya .15 engine.

Those who think they are reserving these "collectibles" for their grandchildren are wishful thinking IMO. Yes, they are collectibles, but are the "valuable" collectibles? The younger generation doesn't have the same level of appreciation, hence why they usually go for a song at estate auctions.

I use them because you can't take them with you to the grave, add a sense of authenticity to earlier planes, and they make for interesting conversation pieces at the field.

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Very true. The market for collectables is only as good as there are buyers. I don't see the younger generation becoming enamored with these fuel engines. If you got em you might as well use them.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

That is the way I see it, if I buy it I plan on using it. If I don't have a purpose in mind I don't buy the engine.

drorzbe

Hi
I have couple of Enya's engines 40X & 40CX, I wonder which one is stronger(HP) and what is a good prop size for them
Thanks
Dror

GallopingGhostler

Isn't the CX the AAC version of the X? Peter Chinn wrote a June 1978 Model Airplane News engine test article for the X:

Enya 40X TV

He wrote another article in July 1978 Radio Modeller:

Enya 40X-TV

In those he mentioned the props he used. My same era Enya general instructions recommends for the X: 10-11x6-5 ( 10x6 to 11x5) props. These ought to provide a good starting point.

1QwkSport2.5r

I have a 40CX - I think it turned a 10x6 APC at 13,000rpm on low nitro fuel. Being the X is ringed and CX is ringless, if put my money on the CX due to the piston seal being superior.

pminnick

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I actually emailed Ken Enya and he replied that the muffler is available but the strap is not. Very reasonable price so I think I will go that way.

123Cat

Good Evening

I am looking to purchase an Enya 09 111 and have built a quite light CL plane
Im just a little worried that the 09 might vibrate a bit , I like 5% nitro
Can you suggest a RPM range to minimise vibration
Oh its an Iron piston ?
Would an 8x4 be OK
And I am looking for the legendary Enya lasting power with 20% castor oil

GallopingGhostler

5% nitro is fine, 20% all castor fuel is the recommended on my Enya instruction sheet. Using 20% with half as synthetic should be fine, too.
To give you an idea on props and RPM's, here is Peter Chinn's engine test article from November 1966 Model Airplane News magazine:

sceptreflight.com Model Engine Tests/Enya 09-III CL & 09-III RC

The 09-III peaks out at a lower RPM than the Schneurles, on mine vibration hasn't been a problem. The engine is over square with piston diameter slightly larger than stroke. It is a steel sleeve engine with Mehanite iron alloy piston.

If hand starting, I found that lower inertia wood props were easier to run and adjust when hand starting. The 8x4 should be fine. I use older Top Flite 7x6 wood, which really makes my 40-in (1015 mm) wingspan 1980's Hobby Shack Cessna foam ARF move out. The 09 makes a really nice upgrade to the Cox .049 reed valves. Peter's observation that anything smaller than a 7x4 prop is not worth using is true. I tried a 7x3 APC plastic and the plane flew like it was powered by a .049 reedie.

If running unmuffled and mounted to a profile CL, mounting engine on the inboard side would put exhaust down so one doesn't burn their hand when handling. I got a 1950's 36-in (915 mm) wingspan Sterling Profile P-38 CL kit and 2 Enya 09-III CL's on the back burner, been meaning to build some time future. Also have a Japanese 1960's OK Models Pilot 29-in (735 mm) CL Cessna 177 with 09-III TV (engine mounted inverted with throttle wired wide open) that's been framed, (interesting kit, all hardwood) just need finishing.

equip

My Feedback: (64)

Hello all I am reassembling my enya 240 twin and have a question or two, lots of new parts and I want to do this right first is I have two sets of piston pins one set has a wall thickness of 1.49 mm, the other set has a wall thickness of 1.00mm. Some say the thicker ones some say the thin ones. Now when I put the cylinder heads on how tight do I tighten the bolts, the manual says not to tight it will distort the cylinder liners.
So if any of you Enya guys have any tips or things I should look out for or your experience with enya four strokes would be greatly appreciated.
Equip

UncleWaldo

I recently bought a lot of 7 RC engines. This Enya was in the lot. It was missing the needle valve and the prop drive washer. (possibly borrowed to use on a similar engine.) I was able to locate these parts and replace them. I removed the cylinder head and was surprised to see a piston with no discoloration. I mean it was clean and shinny like it had never seen any combustion. I put a 12X6 prop on the engine and mounted it on my test stand. I hand started the engine and it ran beautifully..Now I am debating weather or not to keep it or put it up for sale. I was wondering what a "brand new" old engine like this is worth??





























0

RC YEAGER

Its a bit difficult to give you any worthwhile input on its value without any photos of it. I can only gather it is probably a 60 based on your prop choice. Although Enya engines are very valued by modellers who know, like any other make, there are some models that are worth more than others. Then there is the matter of condition, both inside and out, although of course inside matters most. But if the engine looks like crap outside but has a shiny unused piston, any reasonable person might gather a new piston has been installed in a very used engine. All in all, like I said, post photos and I (and others) might be able to give you a better idea of its worth. I myself am an avid Enya fan, and have sold and bought many of them, so I know a bit at least.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I will warn you Waldo glow 2 cycle engines aren't as popular as they once were specially in the smaller sizes. Your Enya is a very good well design/built engine and they are still prized in good condition.