NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
12-17-2005 | 07:13 PM
#26
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From: clewiston,
FL
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
I'M kinda new at this but I think you can't get a tuned pipe for the evo's just yet but soon you can... as for the super tiger engine, I had (2) of them and they both went bad in a short time, but make the call because there is to many guy's that say that the super tiger is the best.. I myself have become an evolution man (they start all the time)...........
12-17-2005 | 08:14 PM
#27
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From: STOCKHOLM Akersberga, SWEDEN
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
All the supertigers I have had, has "midrange transition issues". Starting is never a problem. Idle is good and low, full throttle is great but they go rich in the midrange[:@][
]. Rotating the spraybar and fourstroke glowplugs would help a little bit but not solve the entire problem.
If midrange transition is important for your application then forget the ST and instead look at the list below.
Webra, Irvine, moki, mvvs, os, jett, ys and some more
but they go rich in the midrange[:@][]. Rotating the spraybar and fourstroke glowplugs would help a little bit but not solve the entire problem.If midrange transition is important for your application then forget the ST and instead look at the list below.
Webra, Irvine, moki, mvvs, os, jett, ys and some more
12-17-2005 | 09:24 PM
#28
My Feedback: (2)
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
DarZeelon,
I have to agree and disagree with you....
I've had both engines. I like them both. I think that the Thunder Tiger is easier to set up and to adjust. I just never had the knack to dial in the ST. You say that "...the Super-Tigre carburettor allows you to adjust the mid-range mixture separately". Could you amplify that a little bit? If I could find that trick, I'd lean towards the SuperTigre. When running side by side, I found that the ST was much smoother than the TT.
The ST is 42 grams (about 1.5 oz) heavier than the TT, but I don't think that's a great drawback. That weight is probably in the muffler anyway.
As Ed Moorman observed, price, power, and weight are all about the same. It's a matter of preference. My only dislike with the ST was that I could never get it dialed in correctly. It always hesitated through midrange. When I tried to compensate with the lowspeed needle, the idle suffered.
But, I'd be willing to try one again if I could learn the secret to dialing it in properly.
Just my $.02
Bob
I have to agree and disagree with you....
I've had both engines. I like them both. I think that the Thunder Tiger is easier to set up and to adjust. I just never had the knack to dial in the ST. You say that "...the Super-Tigre carburettor allows you to adjust the mid-range mixture separately". Could you amplify that a little bit? If I could find that trick, I'd lean towards the SuperTigre. When running side by side, I found that the ST was much smoother than the TT.
The ST is 42 grams (about 1.5 oz) heavier than the TT, but I don't think that's a great drawback. That weight is probably in the muffler anyway.
As Ed Moorman observed, price, power, and weight are all about the same. It's a matter of preference. My only dislike with the ST was that I could never get it dialed in correctly. It always hesitated through midrange. When I tried to compensate with the lowspeed needle, the idle suffered.
But, I'd be willing to try one again if I could learn the secret to dialing it in properly.
Just my $.02
Bob
12-17-2005 | 11:23 PM
#29
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From: clewiston,
FL
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
mabe that's why my tiger's went down so fast, now that I think about it I had that same problem so I have to run it full throttle alot to clear it out[:@]........ do you thin that might of ben why my tiger's went south on me so fast
12-18-2005 | 12:18 AM
#30
Senior Member
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
Bob, J.Wilson,
I looked through the current ST manual and could not find it, but the carburettor is still of the same design.
There are two small bolts that hold the main needle housing + fuel nipple to the carburettor's body.
Mark the relative position of the needle housing and the body.
This adjustment must be made with the engine stopped.
If the mid-range is, say, too rich, loosen these bolts, so the needle housing can be turned in relationship to the body, make a minute adjustment (turn the housing very slightly) and re-tighten the bolts.
Restart the engine, clear it out by running full throttle for a couple of seconds, reduce to 1/4 throttle and check if it is still too rich, or already too lean.
Repeat, until you get the mid-range set perfectly.
I looked through the current ST manual and could not find it, but the carburettor is still of the same design.
There are two small bolts that hold the main needle housing + fuel nipple to the carburettor's body.
Mark the relative position of the needle housing and the body.
This adjustment must be made with the engine stopped.
If the mid-range is, say, too rich, loosen these bolts, so the needle housing can be turned in relationship to the body, make a minute adjustment (turn the housing very slightly) and re-tighten the bolts.
Restart the engine, clear it out by running full throttle for a couple of seconds, reduce to 1/4 throttle and check if it is still too rich, or already too lean.
Repeat, until you get the mid-range set perfectly.
12-18-2005 | 12:37 AM
#31
My Feedback: (16)
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
I must add here that if you do get it all messed up by moving the Super Tiger spray bar and get frustrated....
You can remove the carb and there is an eyebrow slot in the middle of the spray bar on the bottom side. This slot must face down the barrel of the carb when the throttle is wide open. It should look directly at you if you have the carb off and you are looking back up the barrel with the throttle wide open.
Enjoy,
Jim
You can remove the carb and there is an eyebrow slot in the middle of the spray bar on the bottom side. This slot must face down the barrel of the carb when the throttle is wide open. It should look directly at you if you have the carb off and you are looking back up the barrel with the throttle wide open.
Enjoy,
Jim
12-18-2005 | 02:45 AM
#32
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
ORIGINAL: Flyer95
All the supertigers I have had, has "midrange transition issues". Starting is never a problem. Idle is good and low, full throttle is great but they go rich in the midrange[:@][]. Rotating the spraybar and fourstroke glowplugs would help a little bit but not solve the entire problem.
If midrange transition is important for your application then forget the ST and instead look at the list below.
Webra, Irvine, moki, mvvs, os, jett, ys and some more
All the supertigers I have had, has "midrange transition issues". Starting is never a problem. Idle is good and low, full throttle is great
but they go rich in the midrange[:@][]. Rotating the spraybar and fourstroke glowplugs would help a little bit but not solve the entire problem.If midrange transition is important for your application then forget the ST and instead look at the list below.
Webra, Irvine, moki, mvvs, os, jett, ys and some more
--------------
Are/were your ST engines made in Italy or China?
Being of European origin, these engines were set up to use 0 - 5% nitro. Running them on higher nitro can require richening the high speed needle excessively, which richens the midrange too. So what do we have? An engine that has a proper high speed adjustment, but which now has a rich midrange.
Burn 5% nitro fuel and everything falls into place. Or, add a headshim to lower the compression, then the necessary high speed mixture will not cause an excessive midrange.
There used to be charts available showing just how much rpm gain that one could expect for each 5% increase in nitro content. Once studied and digested, it became clear that running more than 5% nitro in two-stroke engines designed for sport use was just flushing money down the toilet and creating mysterious carb problems for those not in the know.
Granted, you may find a day now and then when the weather is "just right" to permit your engine to enjoy a bit of a power boost and crisper handling by using more nitro, but on the average, more than 5% nitro for two-strokes causes more problems than it solves.
The ASP, MDS, Magnum, Royal and several other brands of yesteryear were set up for 0 -5% nitro. Each of these engines had terrible reputations for deadsticking, rich midrange running and several other symptoms that were worsened by using too much nitro in the fuel.
Duke Fox used to set up his engines to burn his Missile Mist fuel. They ran like crap on 5% nitro. Missile Mist contained a mix of 25% nitromethane and nitroethane. This required a low compression ratio. I had a phone conversation with Duke about this very subject in the late seventies. I asked him why he did this, knowing full well that he was trying to lock you into not only buying his engines, but his expensive fuel. His answer was nebulous and non informative. I knew why and so did he.
I told Duke that I had finally reached the point where crashing was a rare thing for me and that I often either sold or gave away old engines to folks that needed a helping hand. The point being, that I had finally reached enough proficiency to begin buying really expensive model engines, since I normally did not crash them. He asked me what my point was. I said that I was considering buying European pattern engines that would run fine on 0-5% nitro and save some money while doing my endless hours of pattern flying practice. I said that I would rather pay a little more for an engine that burned cheap fuel, than pay very little for an engine that burned expensive fuel. Six months later he introduced a low nitro replacement cylinder head for his Eagle .60. This is the pre schneurle ported engine. The head can be recognized by its vertical glow plug.
It used to be that increasing the nitro content of fuel cost the consumer a lot more money than it does today. However, money aside, many engines simply are not calibrated to run properly on more than 5% nitromethane. Four-strokes are mostly different in this regard. The HP drum valve engines are exceptions. They are set up to run on 0-5% nitro and will run terribly on higher nitro fuel.
Everyone has a crusade over one issue or another in life. This one is mine. Do yourself a favor and back off the nitro content when running two-strokes. You will be amazed to discover that the engine actually runs better, once you get the needles and glow plug choice straightened out.
12-18-2005 | 03:11 AM
#33
Senior Member
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
Ed,
Almost needless to say; I am 100% with you on this, with the exception of YS and some specialty two-stroke engines that are set up specifically to use more nitro.
But OS and clones, TT, Webra, ST, MVVS, Rossi and most others will not gain much from 15% nitro, or would even need modification.
Jetts, for example, are set to be run on 15% nitro. I am not sure they will run very well on 5%.
Maybe Bob Brassell can answer this.
Almost needless to say; I am 100% with you on this, with the exception of YS and some specialty two-stroke engines that are set up specifically to use more nitro.
But OS and clones, TT, Webra, ST, MVVS, Rossi and most others will not gain much from 15% nitro, or would even need modification.
Jetts, for example, are set to be run on 15% nitro. I am not sure they will run very well on 5%.
Maybe Bob Brassell can answer this.
12-18-2005 | 06:45 AM
#34
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My Feedback: (14)
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
ORIGINAL: Ernie Misner
Ed, some combat guys buy their mousse cans already made up from Flying Z Hobbies.
http://www.flyingzhobbies.com/main.html
Ernie
Ed, some combat guys buy their mousse cans already made up from Flying Z Hobbies.
http://www.flyingzhobbies.com/main.html
Ernie
-----------
Ah! Thanks, Ernie.
The wife won't let me play with JB Weld any longer, so I have to buy them premade.
12-18-2005 | 06:53 AM
#35
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My Feedback: (14)
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
ORIGINAL: Kansas Twister
I prefer the TT .46 Pro; mostly because the ST engines are butt ugly, heavy, and have a tendancy to lose mufflers in flight if you aren't careful about tightness. Having said that, the very cheap ($49.99) ST .40 makes a good trainer engine; but sell it or give it to a new flyer once you go to your second airplane.
I DO NOT recommend the Magnum .46; I've had three, one was so-so, the other two junk. It's funny, because their 4-strokes are very good for the money. Hey no offense, but this has been my experience and that's what I go by.
The O.S. .46 AX is an excellent engine, but too darned expensive for the minimal quality and performance difference over the TT Pro; $79.99 compared to $104.99 at Tower, that's a 31% difference...
I prefer the TT .46 Pro; mostly because the ST engines are butt ugly, heavy, and have a tendancy to lose mufflers in flight if you aren't careful about tightness. Having said that, the very cheap ($49.99) ST .40 makes a good trainer engine; but sell it or give it to a new flyer once you go to your second airplane.
I DO NOT recommend the Magnum .46; I've had three, one was so-so, the other two junk. It's funny, because their 4-strokes are very good for the money. Hey no offense, but this has been my experience and that's what I go by.
The O.S. .46 AX is an excellent engine, but too darned expensive for the minimal quality and performance difference over the TT Pro; $79.99 compared to $104.99 at Tower, that's a 31% difference...
----------------------
I like both the TT.46 Pro and the ST engines in that size range, but I have to agree that the TT is the prettier of the lot.
I have seen those butt-ugly GS40's stomp the grape juice out of some of the larger engines in that class range, so I wouldn't be too eager to sell it off if I had one that really ran good. Don't let the price fool you and don't load it down with a prop larger than a 10x5 or 6. This is a strong little engine.
(Old man slips into reminescing mode) It kind of reminds me a bit of my OS.32F-H that I owned and flew over a decade ago. Lots of .40's and .45's went home red-faced after coming up against that little monster. However, it was expensive. The ST GS-40 is not expensive, but runs like a scalded cat, once broken-in. Be patient and don't over prop it. After all, it IS a Super Tigre.
12-18-2005 | 08:06 AM
#36
My Feedback: (102)
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
I am a big fan of the SuperTigre .51, it is stone reliable, runs perfectly on Fox 5% nitro fuel with 20% lube and is unbelievably tough. Mine has been on more planes than I can remember both as a glow and as a Diesel and its still kickin. Mine has the rare distinction of turning a 12x6 at 10,400 as a glow and a 12x6 three blade at 10,400 as a Diesel, most lose a few hundred rpm when increasing the load by 50% when converting to Diesel. I saw where a guy is struggling with an LA .46, if you run the LA .46 on 5% nitro fuel you can run the HighSpeed needle leaner and the airbleed screw can do its job much more effectively. So there.
12-18-2005 | 08:46 AM
#37
Senior Member
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
If it is worth anything, I would like to add another issue....
Even though ST engines, like most other makes, use CNC made parts and are manufactured by low pay worker, in far east China, they still have some of the original Super Tigre spirit left in them.
The design is still original Super Tigre; not a clone engine, like TT, Sanye (Magnum, ASP, SC...), TS, Tower/GMS...
...And they still have their own idiosyncratic behavior, like any real Italian item (car, motorcycle,...).
I don't look away from such things, like some modern day R/Cers, that need everything ready-to-run, right out of the box. They actually attract me to 'fiddle' with them...
Even though ST engines, like most other makes, use CNC made parts and are manufactured by low pay worker, in far east China, they still have some of the original Super Tigre spirit left in them.
The design is still original Super Tigre; not a clone engine, like TT, Sanye (Magnum, ASP, SC...), TS, Tower/GMS...
...And they still have their own idiosyncratic behavior, like any real Italian item (car, motorcycle,...).
I don't look away from such things, like some modern day R/Cers, that need everything ready-to-run, right out of the box. They actually attract me to 'fiddle' with them...
12-18-2005 | 08:49 AM
#38
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From: Lahore, PAKISTAN
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
I think the guy has had enough thoughts about which engine to buy.
I am sure ... he is as confused as he was when he posted the thread.
A good option would have been to start a poll and see the results.
I would only say one last thing ....
In my ten years experience I have learned only one thing... Engine is the most important thing. NEVER compromise on Engine ... mostly people crash due to engine failures and dead sticks.
If i recomend somebody a plane I go with O.S (Ze Best !)
otherwise other relaible engines i know that are cheap also are ASP (the new series... atleast the 46 is good enough)
I am sure ... he is as confused as he was when he posted the thread.
A good option would have been to start a poll and see the results.
I would only say one last thing ....
In my ten years experience I have learned only one thing... Engine is the most important thing. NEVER compromise on Engine ... mostly people crash due to engine failures and dead sticks.
If i recomend somebody a plane I go with O.S (Ze Best !)
otherwise other relaible engines i know that are cheap also are ASP (the new series... atleast the 46 is good enough)
12-18-2005 | 10:40 AM
#39
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
ORIGINAL: DarZeelon
If it is worth anything, I would like to add another issue....
Even though ST engines, like most other makes, use CNC made parts and are manufactured by low pay worker, in far east China, they still have some of the original Super Tigre spirit left in them.
The design is still original Super Tigre; not a clone engine, like TT, Sanye (Magnum, ASP, SC...), TS, Tower/GMS...
...And they still have their own idiosyncratic behavior, like any real Italian item (car, motorcycle,...).
I don't look away from such things, like some modern day R/Cers, that need everything ready-to-run, right out of the box. They actually attract me to 'fiddle' with them...
If it is worth anything, I would like to add another issue....
Even though ST engines, like most other makes, use CNC made parts and are manufactured by low pay worker, in far east China, they still have some of the original Super Tigre spirit left in them.
The design is still original Super Tigre; not a clone engine, like TT, Sanye (Magnum, ASP, SC...), TS, Tower/GMS...
...And they still have their own idiosyncratic behavior, like any real Italian item (car, motorcycle,...).
I don't look away from such things, like some modern day R/Cers, that need everything ready-to-run, right out of the box. They actually attract me to 'fiddle' with them...
-------------
I couldn't agree with you more, Dar.
With more control options (adjustable midrange) comes more possibilities of improper adjustment, in addition to the possibility of better optimal performance. Some of the folks in the hobby find this to be a challenge, while others find it to be a liability. For the latter folks, keep the fuel down to around 5% nitro and leave the "midrange adjustment" alone on the ST engines.
12-18-2005 | 04:43 PM
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From: STOCKHOLM Akersberga, SWEDEN
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
ORIGINAL: Ed Cregger
--------------
Are/were your ST engines made in Italy or China?
Being of European origin, these engines were set up to use 0 - 5% nitro. Running them on higher nitro can require richening the high speed needle excessively, which richens the midrange too. So what do we have? An engine that has a proper high speed adjustment, but which now has a rich midrange.
Burn 5% nitro fuel and everything falls into place. Or, add a headshim to lower the compression, then the necessary high speed mixture will not cause an excessive midrange.
There used to be charts available showing just how much rpm gain that one could expect for each 5% increase in nitro content. Once studied and digested, it became clear that running more than 5% nitro in two-stroke engines designed for sport use was just flushing money down the toilet and creating mysterious carb problems for those not in the know.
Granted, you may find a day now and then when the weather is "just right" to permit your engine to enjoy a bit of a power boost and crisper handling by using more nitro, but on the average, more than 5% nitro for two-strokes causes more problems than it solves.
The ASP, MDS, Magnum, Royal and several other brands of yesteryear were set up for 0 -5% nitro. Each of these engines had terrible reputations for deadsticking, rich midrange running and several other symptoms that were worsened by using too much nitro in the fuel.
Duke Fox used to set up his engines to burn his Missile Mist fuel. They ran like crap on 5% nitro. Missile Mist contained a mix of 25% nitromethane and nitroethane. This required a low compression ratio. I had a phone conversation with Duke about this very subject in the late seventies. I asked him why he did this, knowing full well that he was trying to lock you into not only buying his engines, but his expensive fuel. His answer was nebulous and non informative. I knew why and so did he.
I told Duke that I had finally reached the point where crashing was a rare thing for me and that I often either sold or gave away old engines to folks that needed a helping hand. The point being, that I had finally reached enough proficiency to begin buying really expensive model engines, since I normally did not crash them. He asked me what my point was. I said that I was considering buying European pattern engines that would run fine on 0-5% nitro and save some money while doing my endless hours of pattern flying practice. I said that I would rather pay a little more for an engine that burned cheap fuel, than pay very little for an engine that burned expensive fuel. Six months later he introduced a low nitro replacement cylinder head for his Eagle .60. This is the pre schneurle ported engine. The head can be recognized by its vertical glow plug.
It used to be that increasing the nitro content of fuel cost the consumer a lot more money than it does today. However, money aside, many engines simply are not calibrated to run properly on more than 5% nitromethane. Four-strokes are mostly different in this regard. The HP drum valve engines are exceptions. They are set up to run on 0-5% nitro and will run terribly on higher nitro fuel.
Everyone has a crusade over one issue or another in life. This one is mine. Do yourself a favor and back off the nitro content when running two-strokes. You will be amazed to discover that the engine actually runs better, once you get the needles and glow plug choice straightened out.
ORIGINAL: Flyer95
All the supertigers I have had, has "midrange transition issues". Starting is never a problem. Idle is good and low, full throttle is great but they go rich in the midrange[:@][]. Rotating the spraybar and fourstroke glowplugs would help a little bit but not solve the entire problem.
If midrange transition is important for your application then forget the ST and instead look at the list below.
Webra, Irvine, moki, mvvs, os, jett, ys and some more
All the supertigers I have had, has "midrange transition issues". Starting is never a problem. Idle is good and low, full throttle is great
but they go rich in the midrange[:@][]. Rotating the spraybar and fourstroke glowplugs would help a little bit but not solve the entire problem.If midrange transition is important for your application then forget the ST and instead look at the list below.
Webra, Irvine, moki, mvvs, os, jett, ys and some more
--------------
Are/were your ST engines made in Italy or China?
Being of European origin, these engines were set up to use 0 - 5% nitro. Running them on higher nitro can require richening the high speed needle excessively, which richens the midrange too. So what do we have? An engine that has a proper high speed adjustment, but which now has a rich midrange.
Burn 5% nitro fuel and everything falls into place. Or, add a headshim to lower the compression, then the necessary high speed mixture will not cause an excessive midrange.
There used to be charts available showing just how much rpm gain that one could expect for each 5% increase in nitro content. Once studied and digested, it became clear that running more than 5% nitro in two-stroke engines designed for sport use was just flushing money down the toilet and creating mysterious carb problems for those not in the know.
Granted, you may find a day now and then when the weather is "just right" to permit your engine to enjoy a bit of a power boost and crisper handling by using more nitro, but on the average, more than 5% nitro for two-strokes causes more problems than it solves.
The ASP, MDS, Magnum, Royal and several other brands of yesteryear were set up for 0 -5% nitro. Each of these engines had terrible reputations for deadsticking, rich midrange running and several other symptoms that were worsened by using too much nitro in the fuel.
Duke Fox used to set up his engines to burn his Missile Mist fuel. They ran like crap on 5% nitro. Missile Mist contained a mix of 25% nitromethane and nitroethane. This required a low compression ratio. I had a phone conversation with Duke about this very subject in the late seventies. I asked him why he did this, knowing full well that he was trying to lock you into not only buying his engines, but his expensive fuel. His answer was nebulous and non informative. I knew why and so did he.
I told Duke that I had finally reached the point where crashing was a rare thing for me and that I often either sold or gave away old engines to folks that needed a helping hand. The point being, that I had finally reached enough proficiency to begin buying really expensive model engines, since I normally did not crash them. He asked me what my point was. I said that I was considering buying European pattern engines that would run fine on 0-5% nitro and save some money while doing my endless hours of pattern flying practice. I said that I would rather pay a little more for an engine that burned cheap fuel, than pay very little for an engine that burned expensive fuel. Six months later he introduced a low nitro replacement cylinder head for his Eagle .60. This is the pre schneurle ported engine. The head can be recognized by its vertical glow plug.
It used to be that increasing the nitro content of fuel cost the consumer a lot more money than it does today. However, money aside, many engines simply are not calibrated to run properly on more than 5% nitromethane. Four-strokes are mostly different in this regard. The HP drum valve engines are exceptions. They are set up to run on 0-5% nitro and will run terribly on higher nitro fuel.
Everyone has a crusade over one issue or another in life. This one is mine. Do yourself a favor and back off the nitro content when running two-strokes. You will be amazed to discover that the engine actually runs better, once you get the needles and glow plug choice straightened out.
. I run 0-5% nitro in my twostrokes. On my other engines like the irvine, saito, webra, mvvs, os... the only thing needed for good and linear carburation was the choice of a correct glow plug but I can not say that for my Super Tigres[]I havent bought anymore tigres since 5-6 years back because I was not happy with the fat midrange and the low reliability in the midrange.
The engines are good, have a beefy conrod[sm=thumbup.gif] and will probably run forever but the carburetor transition is not linear[
] and thats something ST knew about and thats probably why they introduced the "dogleg" rail on some early throttle barrel on the G2300.The "dogleg" or a "wide S" is probably a good idea/way for linear transition and thats a shame something obviously went wrong with the G2300[
] and they had to go back to the original drawing[:@][]. My S3000 with a OS 7D carb. has a linear transition so I am confident when I am flying and can concentrate on my flying instead of being worry about the engine reliability. /Amir
12-18-2005 | 10:44 PM
#41
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
ORIGINAL: tonyhukk
HI LIKE TO KNOW WHICH ENGINE IS BETTER SUPER TIGER 45 ABC OOOORRR THUNDER TIGER 46 ABC. I NEED TO BUY ONE BUT I WANT TO KNOW MORE FROM THE PRO, ABOUT THESE ENGINES. ALSO LIKE TO KNOW WERE TO BUY A GOOD TUNED PIPE FOR THESE ENGINES.
THX
HI LIKE TO KNOW WHICH ENGINE IS BETTER SUPER TIGER 45 ABC OOOORRR THUNDER TIGER 46 ABC. I NEED TO BUY ONE BUT I WANT TO KNOW MORE FROM THE PRO, ABOUT THESE ENGINES. ALSO LIKE TO KNOW WERE TO BUY A GOOD TUNED PIPE FOR THESE ENGINES.
THX
12-19-2005 | 04:58 AM
#42
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From: Martinsville,
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RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
The ST45 is your rocket of choice. Mac's makes a pipe system for ST and yes it won't fit OS 46 clones. I have bought chinese replacement parts for my Italian ST 's and they fit fine. The ST carb is great and was the choice of many other brand engine users if they fit. I think the ST has a little more low speed torque. A ST will run lean when others would die in a split second. If you set the ST with a tach on high speed you will get a screamer. Don't be afraid of the chinese ST. The ST will get a couple hundred RPM compared to TT.
12-19-2005 | 05:38 AM
#43
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From: Martinsville,
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RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
Forget mft's advertized HP this is from the Paul McIntosh engine test chart using 15% nitro
ST 45 prop 11x7 10,700 TT 46 prop 11x7 10,500
ST 45 APC 12x6 10,600 TT 46 APC 12x6 10,300
ST 45 prop 11x7 10,700 TT 46 prop 11x7 10,500
ST 45 APC 12x6 10,600 TT 46 APC 12x6 10,300
12-19-2005 | 04:51 PM
#44
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From: Tacoma,
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RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
Ed, for your home made mousse cans, get some aluminum brazing rod from Harbor Freight tools. That, along with a little hand held micro butane torch, is perfect for working with the light weight aluminum..... way more fun than JB Weld anyway. No flux is needed with that rod.
Ernie
Ernie
12-19-2005 | 06:00 PM
#45
Senior Member
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
ORIGINAL: speedster 1919
Forget mft's advertized HP this is from the Paul McIntosh engine test chart using 15% nitro
ST 45 prop 11x7 10,700 TT 46 prop 11x7 10,500
ST 45 APC 12x6 10,600 TT 46 APC 12x6 10,300
Forget mft's advertized HP this is from the Paul McIntosh engine test chart using 15% nitro
ST 45 prop 11x7 10,700 TT 46 prop 11x7 10,500
ST 45 APC 12x6 10,600 TT 46 APC 12x6 10,300
That stuff is with stock mufflers. The TT muffler is crap -- restrictive, but not quiet.
It would be much more revealing if we could see a comparison with a common muffler type for both engines -- that would actually tell us which one inherently makes more power.
The TT 46 Pro wakes up very substantially if you remove the baffle & drill out the exhaust stinger -- goes like hell & even turns big props like a 4-stroke.
It also responds very strongly to a Tower 46 "tuned" muffler -- it wails with standard size props, or smaller "speed" types.
Does the Super Tigre do the same?
12-19-2005 | 10:01 PM
#47
Senior Member
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
I haven't done that. Our field is in a rural setting, so noise really isn't an issue.
The unbaffled & drilled out TT muffler sounds about the same as the stock Tower "tuned" muffler, or GMS "tuned" muffler. Noisier than an OS AX box muffler, but not outrageously loud.
Speaking of the OS AX muffler -- that also gives the TT Pro a dose of extra power -- & it's quieter.
I've compared a TT 46 Pro, an OS 46 FX & an OS AX in a side-by-side static RPM test. Both of the OS engines out reved the TT when all were equipped with their stock mufflers. The AX had a whisker (~100 RPM) on the FX, which had a whisker (~150 RPM) on the TT.
I also measured each one, in turn, with the AX muffler & you couldn't tell the difference between them. On that day, at ~130M ASL, at ~ 20 C (as I recall) & using 10% Omega and an APC 11-6, each one turned ~13,600 static RPM with the AX muffler.
The unbaffled & drilled out TT muffler sounds about the same as the stock Tower "tuned" muffler, or GMS "tuned" muffler. Noisier than an OS AX box muffler, but not outrageously loud.
Speaking of the OS AX muffler -- that also gives the TT Pro a dose of extra power -- & it's quieter.
I've compared a TT 46 Pro, an OS 46 FX & an OS AX in a side-by-side static RPM test. Both of the OS engines out reved the TT when all were equipped with their stock mufflers. The AX had a whisker (~100 RPM) on the FX, which had a whisker (~150 RPM) on the TT.
I also measured each one, in turn, with the AX muffler & you couldn't tell the difference between them. On that day, at ~130M ASL, at ~ 20 C (as I recall) & using 10% Omega and an APC 11-6, each one turned ~13,600 static RPM with the AX muffler.
12-19-2005 | 10:39 PM
#48
Senior Member
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
Hi guys...
I was wondering if the OS46FX will gain some power if I drill the exhaust hole...and if its afirmative, what should be the optimum hole diameter?? has anyone done this before?
I was wondering if the OS46FX will gain some power if I drill the exhaust hole...and if its afirmative, what should be the optimum hole diameter?? has anyone done this before?
12-20-2005 | 09:07 AM
#49
Senior Member
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
Since the stock muffler is not a tuned-volume & tuned outlet-diameter muffler, the OS engine should gain some additional power from simply reducing back pressure, like the TT does. I drill the TT stinger one drill size larger. Optimum? -- probably not. The definative test would include sleeving the hole smaller, as well as drilling it larger, & I haven't done that (& don't plan on doing so).
12-20-2005 | 10:18 AM
#50
Senior Member
RE: NEED TO BUY ENGINE AND I NEED HELP
The adjustment of the Super Tigre carburettor, including the unique mid-range adjustment feature, is detailed in [link=http://www.supertigre.com/faq/product-faq.html#q22]this web page[/link].
Good luck!
Good luck!
