Cline regulator mounting?
#1
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (9)
I am ready to mount a Cline Regulator to a QQ Yak. The plumbing directions are a snap. i am more interested in the actual attachment to the air frame. Do you mount it like a RX or batter pack? Wrapped in foam & zip tied down. Or hard mount it? i know it needs to be on the firewall close to the carb. What have you guys done?
David
David
#2

My Feedback: (102)
This works better than any other way. If you use a piece of yellow Tygon tubing it will have very little freedom to move yet will not be solid. Once you decide the direction you want the elbows, push them halfway on and put a tiny bit of thin CA around the fitting and then push them all the way on. They will still come off when you want them too but not by them selves.
#3

My Feedback: (41)
I totally agree here but sometimes the cowling space is very confined so close to the carb. I have tried to "hard" tie wrap it to the side of the carb and do not like it due to the vibrations and the reg screws grind the carb aluminum down. There is usually not space for foam up there. So then I tried "loosely" tie wrapping the reg on foam to the side if the cylinder base (opposite the exhaust). Not only does it keep the vibrations down, but the foam does not melt or even change colors. I was very surprised to see that after I took it apart after several flights. The only drawback with mine is that it is not as close as hobbsy's method and that is what Jim Cline recommends. But it works great on mine. Definitely thin CA the elbows on as hobbsy recommends. I have had nothing but troubles just snap fitting them on. They always work loose and leak fuel at the regulator's inlet (positive pressure)and air at the regulator's outlet (vacuum).
ORIGINAL: hobbsy
This works better than any other way. If you use a piece of yellow Tygon tubing it will have very little freedom to move yet will not be solid. Once you decide the direction you want the elbows, push them halfway on and put a tiny bit of thin CA around the fitting and then push them all the way on. They will still come off when you want them too but not by them selves.
This works better than any other way. If you use a piece of yellow Tygon tubing it will have very little freedom to move yet will not be solid. Once you decide the direction you want the elbows, push them halfway on and put a tiny bit of thin CA around the fitting and then push them all the way on. They will still come off when you want them too but not by them selves.
#7
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (9)
Joe, It's a Saito 1.80. I looked at the possibility of both the first responses. This plane has a big cowl but there is not a lot of room on the motor box. I also have the muffler in close to the bottom of the box. I followed your leed and mounted it to the engine this AM. Look at the pics and see if I am on the right track. I am going to run the engine this Sunday.
Thanks to you all,
David
I did a fast response(like a dumba**) I will put the pics on the next post. Or try to edit this one.
Thanks to you all,
David
I did a fast response(like a dumba**) I will put the pics on the next post. Or try to edit this one.
#8

My Feedback: (41)
Dave, looks good. Keep the tie wraps as loose as possible just to keep the Cline from shifting. The looser they are the less vibrations and heat transfered from the engine. That's what I noticed. Jim Cline also told me to try rotating the regulator 90 degrees if there are bubbles in the fuel line to the carb. He says that doing this puts the needle valve lever in a different orientation that does not get affected by engine vibrations (edit: as much). You may be just fine as is. Good luck. These are awesome gizmos.




