aspeed

Ya the K&B might be better. At least it's ABC BB. I have never actually seen one here. The LAs are pretty good for weight and power. Just the cost is a bit high for new. I tend to get them for $20 at swap meets though, as glow is out of favour lately. Probably have 5 or 10. I really am more attracted to the ASP/Magnum blue head .15s. They don't seem available any more though. They go pretty good. Not sure if the K&B would be competitive with them? I don't know if the .15 LA is Chinese now, the .46 AX has been for a while. Really ASP is more reasonable and Chinese anyway. Being in a different country than most of you guys, it really doesn't matter what country stuff is from. The US doesn't keep us as hostages though I guess. Not like China. Trump is at least the devil we know. :-) Not trying to be political, just that it is a factor sometimes.

Mr Cox

I have one of the KB .18 Aero engines, I wrote a thread about it here at the time too: KB .18 Aero
Long story short, it is not a bad engine really, but it is has less power than the ASP .15 XLS engine.

stackerjack

Hi Guys,
Sorry to interrupt your thread (I'll get the hang of this someday) Does anyone know where I can get an M11x.75 tap and die in the U.K. please?

Captcrunch44

RACE 66

Whether they run or not, it is a great sickness, so fine it is. Now just for fun, how many are currently flying?
Myself, I have more in the 'drawer' than flying, typical. I have a old version of the FS 90 that I got over 20 years ago, that has maybe a gallon of
fuel through it and has yet to be fired up since purchase ! Great times it is....... Oh...almost forgot, bought it for 20 bucks, aka divorce sale.

Mike

Captcrunch44

Captcrunch44

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Lets see, are you talking about the left cam bearing? Thanks

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Aw, you're talking the older rear cam 90's, maybe.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/glow...90-manual.html

Post #3 has a couple of links.

Captcrunch44

The Ghost

I got mine on Fleebay, about the only place to get good tap and dies without spending a lot of $$$$$$

Fast Pilot

Hi Guys,
Sorry to interrupt your thread.

I found some 1 liter cans of Klotz kl 200 oil but they are rusted.
I would like to know if even glow engine oil ages.

Thanks a lot

aspeed

I think it should be fine if stored in good conditions. You should filter it after mixing. Nitro is usually good for a while too. As long as they don't change colour. Methanol is not good for too long, or gasoline either for that matter.

Jesse Open

1QwkSport2.5r

mirwin

My Feedback: (1)

I have what I think is an unusual problem with my OS FS-120 Surpass III which has about 300 trouble-free flights on it.

After flying the last time and during clean-up & maintenance, I noticed a distinct tick in the engine each revolution. The engine turned over okay otherwise, and it ran fine during that last flight. I intended to investigate that tick before flying again, thinking I may need to adjust the valves.

A month or so later, I put it on the bench, and I discovered that the engine turns over freely with no tick. However, the following new conditions have this old mechanic scratching his head.

There is NO compression.

The piston cycles smoothly and silently as it should.

The valves do not function.

As I said before, there is no ticking or any other unusual sound when I manually turn over the engine.

I don't see how a broken piston ring could be the problem (and source of the tick). That wouldn't prevent the cam from operating the valves. And I think it's unlikely that I would have a broken piston ring and two broken pushrods or a cam gone flat.

Any ideas what this might mean? I'm lost for ideas.

Thanks

bhady

valves stuck open????

mirwin

My Feedback: (1)

bhady, thanks for the reply.


The valves are closed. I removed the valve cover and I can manipulate both valves freely. The valve springs are still strong, as I would expect.

I'll remove the camshaft cover-plate, but I wanted to wait for ideas from this forum before I remove the engine from the plane.

Mike

hsukaria

I have had the same symptoms in the past with no compression. But it would come back after running the engine. O thought it might be the piston ring not seated right but I never had to investigate because it work fine after running it.

mirwin

My Feedback: (1)

Hsukaria,

Thanks. I didn't consider trying to start the engine. I was a little concerned that if the piston ring was broken, the pieces might ruin the cylinder sleeve and the piston.

But I might try it. Can't hurt if the engine just spins.

Do you know if the valve train was working properly when you started the engine?

Mike

hsukaria

The valves also might stick at first causing compression loss.
I also check the valve gaps after not using it for a while just a precaution.
Also, I use all synthetic oil in the fuel on my 4strokes to prevent gumming the valvetrain.

mirwin

My Feedback: (1)

Hsukaria,

In my reply to bhady, I wrote that I can manually manipulate both valves freely. The valve springs are strong, as I would expect. So, I don't believe I have a problem with sticky valves.

Thanks,
Mike

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

There is the possibility that there could be a bit of dried castor oil film in the valve seats or on the valves to prevent seating and sealing. A good run will soften and get rid of this.

Just my $.02

Bob

mirwin

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, Bob

The valves work fine. I can open and close them manually just fine. The problem is that the camshaft or the lifters or the push rods or all of the above doesn't open and close the valves.

The valve springs keep the valves closed. Therefore, there should be compression.

The effect is that the engine makes no compression and the valve-train does not function.

Mike