mvvs 49
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From: Hervey Bay Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Careful ...
Angel's shouldn't be tempting those on the righteous path of MVVS bliss!
Is it an open offer?,If your .49 is mechanically sound, I might just take it if you will pay freight to an address in conUS.
fiery
Angel's shouldn't be tempting those on the righteous path of MVVS bliss!

Is it an open offer?,If your .49 is mechanically sound, I might just take it if you will pay freight to an address in conUS.
fiery
#27
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From: Janesville,
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Sorry TheEdge, I don't have a digital cam to take any pictures. If you're interested, we can do this one of two ways. I can have a friend take a few shots of it this weekend, or I can mail it to you and let you decide if it's worth $50. If you like it, send me the money. If you don't please send it back. I pay postage to you and you pay it back if you don't want to keep it. Let me know what you prefer.
Doug
Doug
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From: Janesville,
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TheEdge, I'm waiting on your mailing details...
You can e-mail the details to:
[email protected]
Thanks
You can e-mail the details to:
[email protected]
Thanks
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From: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
Just want to add that I had a similar problem; runs fine on the ground but splutters in the air with a OS40. I discovered a few frustrating flights later that the back plate of the crankcase had all 4 bolts that were loose. Although why that should effect performance in the air only I couldnt figure out But I tightend the bolts and the engine is perfect since.
#31

Hello!
Okey! Here we go!
First ....any engine with lose bolts will not function properly as air is leaking into the engine and will destroy the fuelsetting!!
Second any modern engine be it ABC,ABN or AAC does not requiere any long break-in. Only a couple of tanks is enough to obtain a god setting!!
Third any engine that stops rewing for a moment in the air, at full throttle, is set to lean ( the engine does not get enough fuel and gets to hot)!!! This symptom is developing either by setting the fuelneedle to lean on the ground or the engine overheats by other factors like to big prop, old fuel, to high compression , to low compression, to much nitro, not enough nitro, wrong glowplug or somthing wrong with the tank installation (too large tank, holes in the brass tubes) etc etc.
As for the mVVS with minipipe it is of vital importance that you run a cold plug; either a Rossi 5 or 6, that is if you have the short minipipe (No 3246).
This pipe is only working at high rpm:s above 15000 rpm and I recommend a 9x6-9x7 APC prop! Expect 17000-18000 rpm with these props and 80/20 fuel 0% nitro), do not run the engine on more than 10% nitro.
If you have the longer minipipe (No. 3248) which works between 10000-14000rpm use a 10x6-11x6 APC prop and not higher than 10% nitro. Glowplug could be anything...like a Enya 3-4 or OS 8 or Rossi 3-5.
As for setting the needles ......The description myaeromodelling gives is probably working but it's not what I would like to recommend to anyone because of the risks involved in using the electrical starter and adjusting the idle needle at the same time..
Instead do as most of us do......start the engine at idle (the idleneeddle schould be turned out a few turns, on the MVVS standard carb the distance between the point of the idle needle and the fuelinlet orrifice should be appr 1/2-1mm at fuel throttle
opening... then give full throttle......take away the glowplugcap....and adjust the highspeed needle (here you must learn to hear what the engine demands...to lean setting or to rich...listen carefully) set it below peak power so that the engine does not owerheat.
Then ..and first.... then throttle down and set the idle
needle...here you have to be careful and listen to what happens when you give full power...if the engine hesitates for a moment ....the idle needle is set too lean!
If on the other hand the engine bludder, hessitates, puff and smoke ..then the idle needle is set to rich...and has to be turned in somewhat....this is easy to do for most people who's been active in the hobby for a couple of years but could be a little difficult for a newcommer to master in the beginning.
Regards!
Jan K
Okey! Here we go!
First ....any engine with lose bolts will not function properly as air is leaking into the engine and will destroy the fuelsetting!!
Second any modern engine be it ABC,ABN or AAC does not requiere any long break-in. Only a couple of tanks is enough to obtain a god setting!!
Third any engine that stops rewing for a moment in the air, at full throttle, is set to lean ( the engine does not get enough fuel and gets to hot)!!! This symptom is developing either by setting the fuelneedle to lean on the ground or the engine overheats by other factors like to big prop, old fuel, to high compression , to low compression, to much nitro, not enough nitro, wrong glowplug or somthing wrong with the tank installation (too large tank, holes in the brass tubes) etc etc.
As for the mVVS with minipipe it is of vital importance that you run a cold plug; either a Rossi 5 or 6, that is if you have the short minipipe (No 3246).
This pipe is only working at high rpm:s above 15000 rpm and I recommend a 9x6-9x7 APC prop! Expect 17000-18000 rpm with these props and 80/20 fuel 0% nitro), do not run the engine on more than 10% nitro.
If you have the longer minipipe (No. 3248) which works between 10000-14000rpm use a 10x6-11x6 APC prop and not higher than 10% nitro. Glowplug could be anything...like a Enya 3-4 or OS 8 or Rossi 3-5.
As for setting the needles ......The description myaeromodelling gives is probably working but it's not what I would like to recommend to anyone because of the risks involved in using the electrical starter and adjusting the idle needle at the same time..
Instead do as most of us do......start the engine at idle (the idleneeddle schould be turned out a few turns, on the MVVS standard carb the distance between the point of the idle needle and the fuelinlet orrifice should be appr 1/2-1mm at fuel throttle
opening... then give full throttle......take away the glowplugcap....and adjust the highspeed needle (here you must learn to hear what the engine demands...to lean setting or to rich...listen carefully) set it below peak power so that the engine does not owerheat.
Then ..and first.... then throttle down and set the idle
needle...here you have to be careful and listen to what happens when you give full power...if the engine hesitates for a moment ....the idle needle is set too lean!
If on the other hand the engine bludder, hessitates, puff and smoke ..then the idle needle is set to rich...and has to be turned in somewhat....this is easy to do for most people who's been active in the hobby for a couple of years but could be a little difficult for a newcommer to master in the beginning.
Regards!
Jan K
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From: toledo, OH
Jaka,I've talked to you in the past and have done everything you've said on top of my own long experience with 2 stroke engines. I run the engine on the rich side and still no luck. I talked to a guy who sells varsane products(perry carbs). He's got one that will fit perfectly. I will try this next and that will be it. If the engine doesn't run well after this it will be pitched. I promised myself along time ago to stick with the stuff I know works because I've been burnt before. The guy at morris talked me into the combo of a hot hotts and this mvvs 49. Yes it was a good deal as far as rc goes. So once again I must promise myself to stick with the time proven engines. ya get what you pay for and this one is my last.
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From: Lafayette, CO
I have to chime in on the side of MVVS. I have 2 40's and the 49. That 49 is the hottest 45 - 50 motor that I have been around. Yes the needle settings are tempermental. Sean, are you setting your high speed needle with a tach? Peak the RPM - actually watch it drop 100 or so on the lean side and then go 200RPM rich from the peak. If you are not taching it, tweak the needle 1 click at a time until you hear the motor start to sag slightly and then back off a few clicks. You can easily be too rich and be fooled by the transition on to the pipe when you are setting the needle. With the mini tuned pipe, the transition on to the pipe is pretty abrupt. There is a chance that you may be running too rich and loading the engine with fuel in flight and then it falls off the pipe.
Dale
Dale
#34
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From: toledo, OH
Hi dale,there is a fine line with rich and lean with my engine. I've set it at optimum then backed off a couple clicks and it absolutly screams but just on the rich side. Now when it goes in the air at this setting it will richen up even more and start to slow and fly like a dog. So then I lean it out a little more ,say a couple clicks and it's screaming again(on the ground) with nose up and down. I take off like a banshee and go for maybe 30 to 45 seconds and it seems like it overheats and almost dies to where I have to pull throttle back for a little while to straighten it out. I do this routine all day messing with low needle and high needle settings. It's a bummer because I know this is a high power engine with great potential. I will try a different carb before I call it quits.
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From: Lafayette, CO
Sean,
One thing I forgot to mention is that the low needle can play havoc with the high end. If you can, try to back the low needle out enough that you have to have a fairly high idle to stay running. Then adjust the high end for peak and back off a 1/4 turn. Now go back to the low end again and use the old tried and true method of pinching the fuel line to set it. As you go leaner, you will need to reduce the trim on the xmitter to keep the speed down. If you pinch the fuel line for a second and the engine speeds up, turn the low needle 1/8 turn leaner and run the engine back up. Bring it back down and repeat. Every quarter turn of the low speed needle, go back high throttle and peak the high speed needle and back off a quarter turn. Keep doing this until the engine does not speed up when you pinch the line anymore, but starts to slow or die. At this point open the idle needle 1/8 turn and run up to high speed. Lower it back down and check. What you want is for the engine to speed up a little bit only. From here, check and adjust the high needle 200RPM or so rich of peak.
In my experience, there is more crosstalk between the needles than any other motor I have had. Hopefully, you can play with it a bit more before you buy a new carb. I can relate to your frustration for sure.
Dale
One thing I forgot to mention is that the low needle can play havoc with the high end. If you can, try to back the low needle out enough that you have to have a fairly high idle to stay running. Then adjust the high end for peak and back off a 1/4 turn. Now go back to the low end again and use the old tried and true method of pinching the fuel line to set it. As you go leaner, you will need to reduce the trim on the xmitter to keep the speed down. If you pinch the fuel line for a second and the engine speeds up, turn the low needle 1/8 turn leaner and run the engine back up. Bring it back down and repeat. Every quarter turn of the low speed needle, go back high throttle and peak the high speed needle and back off a quarter turn. Keep doing this until the engine does not speed up when you pinch the line anymore, but starts to slow or die. At this point open the idle needle 1/8 turn and run up to high speed. Lower it back down and check. What you want is for the engine to speed up a little bit only. From here, check and adjust the high needle 200RPM or so rich of peak.
In my experience, there is more crosstalk between the needles than any other motor I have had. Hopefully, you can play with it a bit more before you buy a new carb. I can relate to your frustration for sure.
Dale
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From: JoionvilleSC, BRAZIL
Dale
It seems the MVVS 49 has a trick setting. I must admit that my very new one ( 25 min running) is driving me crazy.
I'm using a home made fuel with 80% methanol and 20% synthetic oil from Morgan Fuels and it isn't installed in the airplane yet.
The engine has a very good idle and a good top RPM with 11000 RPM with an APC 11x7.
If you press the throttle from idle to the top end you have to immediately return the valve to a very low opening otherwise the engine dies, after some seconds in that position the engine seems to be stronger and then you can definitely open the full throttle with no problem at all.
I've noticed the storage of some air drops at the fuel hose. It seems the drops comes from the carburetor ??? After some time the small drops becomes a 1" air bulb. But even so the engine does not die at the top end.
Is it normal?
It seems the MVVS 49 has a trick setting. I must admit that my very new one ( 25 min running) is driving me crazy.
I'm using a home made fuel with 80% methanol and 20% synthetic oil from Morgan Fuels and it isn't installed in the airplane yet.
The engine has a very good idle and a good top RPM with 11000 RPM with an APC 11x7.
If you press the throttle from idle to the top end you have to immediately return the valve to a very low opening otherwise the engine dies, after some seconds in that position the engine seems to be stronger and then you can definitely open the full throttle with no problem at all.
I've noticed the storage of some air drops at the fuel hose. It seems the drops comes from the carburetor ??? After some time the small drops becomes a 1" air bulb. But even so the engine does not die at the top end.
Is it normal?
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From: Lafayette, CO
Ricardo,
What you are describing sounds like the idle needle is too lean. Open it up 1/8 of a turn and reset the high needle again. Make sure that you have opened the throttle all the way for at least 10-15 seconds before you try to adjust anything.
Dale
What you are describing sounds like the idle needle is too lean. Open it up 1/8 of a turn and reset the high needle again. Make sure that you have opened the throttle all the way for at least 10-15 seconds before you try to adjust anything.
Dale
#40
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Sean,
I have almost the same problem as you do, only it's with a MVVS .21. I installed mine in a Wonder for some high speed fun, it ran great on the stand and on the plane untill I tried to fly it. Boy, what a dog! I tried everything. I tuned and tuned untill I got so mad I took it off and installed another engine. Plane flew great after that. I installed back on the test stand and it runs great! I still can't find the problem with this engine. I called Morris and he said that it will "unload" in the air and for me to try running it "real" rich. Tried it...didn't change a thing! I put the other engine back on and just gave up. My MVVS is now a shelf queen collecting dust. This makes me real mad too, because I'm a mechanic by trade and have been fixing engines since before there was dirt! This one kicked my butt good. I tried all the same stuff that everybody has said, low/no nitro, cold/hot plugs, new tank and lines, resealed the carb and backplate, rebuilt the carb, tried everything I could think of and everything anybody else could think of with no help. My mommy didn't raise no fool, I know when to quit! I hope you have better luck than I did.
Suptter
Danny Mercer
Rome, Ga.
Hey...Look....we have the same last name...same engine brand....Maybe it's a bad Omen
I have almost the same problem as you do, only it's with a MVVS .21. I installed mine in a Wonder for some high speed fun, it ran great on the stand and on the plane untill I tried to fly it. Boy, what a dog! I tried everything. I tuned and tuned untill I got so mad I took it off and installed another engine. Plane flew great after that. I installed back on the test stand and it runs great! I still can't find the problem with this engine. I called Morris and he said that it will "unload" in the air and for me to try running it "real" rich. Tried it...didn't change a thing! I put the other engine back on and just gave up. My MVVS is now a shelf queen collecting dust. This makes me real mad too, because I'm a mechanic by trade and have been fixing engines since before there was dirt! This one kicked my butt good. I tried all the same stuff that everybody has said, low/no nitro, cold/hot plugs, new tank and lines, resealed the carb and backplate, rebuilt the carb, tried everything I could think of and everything anybody else could think of with no help. My mommy didn't raise no fool, I know when to quit! I hope you have better luck than I did.
Suptter
Danny Mercer
Rome, Ga.
Hey...Look....we have the same last name...same engine brand....Maybe it's a bad Omen
#41

Hi!
When an engine quits at full throttle opening .....be it in the air or on a test stand ...it is 95% of the time because of lack of fuel!!!
(it could be the glowplug and other factors too but if you have a new engine never before disasembled with a fresh glowplug it is certainly lack of fuel!)
Lack of fuel means : either the fullspeed needle or the idle needle is set to lean...on MVVS engines with old 3216 and 3219 carbs the two needles interact!!! Lack of fuel also means that the temperature inside the engine gets to hot ...from running the engine on wrong fuel (to much nitro), to large prop or wrong glowplug....or a leak somewhere!
MVVS engines work good on fuel containing 0-10% nitro...if more is used than shim up the head somewhat (0,1mm or more).
On a .21 MVVS with minipipe a 8x6, 9x4, 9x5 or 10x4 APC is okey!
A 9x4 will rew apr 16000rpm using 10% nitro and 20% castor oil
using a Rossi 5-6 glowplug!
This engine could also be used with the two MVVS silencers..giving a much nicer sound than the minipipe!
What is your set up?
Regards!
Jan K
Airracing Products
MVVS importer Sweden
When an engine quits at full throttle opening .....be it in the air or on a test stand ...it is 95% of the time because of lack of fuel!!!
(it could be the glowplug and other factors too but if you have a new engine never before disasembled with a fresh glowplug it is certainly lack of fuel!)
Lack of fuel means : either the fullspeed needle or the idle needle is set to lean...on MVVS engines with old 3216 and 3219 carbs the two needles interact!!! Lack of fuel also means that the temperature inside the engine gets to hot ...from running the engine on wrong fuel (to much nitro), to large prop or wrong glowplug....or a leak somewhere!
MVVS engines work good on fuel containing 0-10% nitro...if more is used than shim up the head somewhat (0,1mm or more).
On a .21 MVVS with minipipe a 8x6, 9x4, 9x5 or 10x4 APC is okey!
A 9x4 will rew apr 16000rpm using 10% nitro and 20% castor oil
using a Rossi 5-6 glowplug!
This engine could also be used with the two MVVS silencers..giving a much nicer sound than the minipipe!
What is your set up?
Regards!
Jan K
Airracing Products
MVVS importer Sweden
#42
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From: Bedford, MA
There's a trick to tuning my MVVS 40. Unlike any Asian engines I have, you need to tune the engine's high speed needle while the plane is vertical. Doesn't make any sense but works perfectly. Makes the engine sputter and hesitate when horizonal on the ground (static), but for some reason the minute it's airborne, the engine unloads quite a bit and runs normally! In any case, I've just run 1 gallon of FAI fuel through my 40 and started using 15% nitro... Without any problems. The little 40 has unbelievable thrust with an 11x4 prop. Enough to hang my Morris the Knife ARF and pull out vertically with authority. And ah, the sound of that mini-tuned pipe is music in my ears.
#44

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From: Hervey Bay Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Go on Suppter, I dare you !
Remember, your a man, it's a machine.
I doesn't have a say. It's only function is to do what you tell it to do. If the engine and carb are structurally sound, you'll sort it. The MVVS designers know what they are doing, it's just that their motors as sold to us are basically de-tuned racing motors, and so in some cases take a little more time and perserverance to set up.
My MVVS 61 took some time (and a few cuss words) to set up, but was it worth it?
Yes
It knocks my O ther S uper fancied japanese sport 61 into a cocked hat ...
Remember, your a man, it's a machine.
I doesn't have a say. It's only function is to do what you tell it to do. If the engine and carb are structurally sound, you'll sort it. The MVVS designers know what they are doing, it's just that their motors as sold to us are basically de-tuned racing motors, and so in some cases take a little more time and perserverance to set up.
My MVVS 61 took some time (and a few cuss words) to set up, but was it worth it?
Yes
It knocks my O ther S uper fancied japanese sport 61 into a cocked hat ...
#45
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From: bangkok, THAILAND
i have the Mvvs .40 for a year now with over 200 flights on it.
plenty of power with a apc 11*5 ( no one at my club flies a 40 class engine with a 11 inch prop .. not even the os 46fx owners i do not know why)
i have the old 3216 carb which runs great but now changed to the newer version ... runs even better.
also have a .45 with a 3217 carb.... this is the greatest carb around for the engine class... very linear transitions and very low idling is possible, no midrange misses whatever ..
I run homebrew 80/20 fuel with a twist of nitro at 2.5%, os 8 plug , at sea level in hot tropical climate.
most people tune the high speed needle like japanese engines ... keep on leaning till peak rpm with plane at vertical ...
i tune for high speed at horizontal ... and back off a bit . Check rpm WOT at horizontal and then vertical ..it will gain a few more rpms .... if it holds then do not adjust anymore. it will unload further when in flight.
if you did the tuning of high speed needle with plane vertical then it will sag at horizontal because of smaller fuel supply when the plane goes up in the air.
just my observation...
plenty of power with a apc 11*5 ( no one at my club flies a 40 class engine with a 11 inch prop .. not even the os 46fx owners i do not know why)
i have the old 3216 carb which runs great but now changed to the newer version ... runs even better.
also have a .45 with a 3217 carb.... this is the greatest carb around for the engine class... very linear transitions and very low idling is possible, no midrange misses whatever ..
I run homebrew 80/20 fuel with a twist of nitro at 2.5%, os 8 plug , at sea level in hot tropical climate.
most people tune the high speed needle like japanese engines ... keep on leaning till peak rpm with plane at vertical ...
i tune for high speed at horizontal ... and back off a bit . Check rpm WOT at horizontal and then vertical ..it will gain a few more rpms .... if it holds then do not adjust anymore. it will unload further when in flight.
if you did the tuning of high speed needle with plane vertical then it will sag at horizontal because of smaller fuel supply when the plane goes up in the air.
just my observation...
#46
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From: Janesville,
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Maybe someday I'll grow bored with just fueling up and hand starting my *O ther S uper fancied japanese sport* engines and flying all day without ever touching the needle, and try another MVVS.....NOT!!!
For me, its all about flying and having fun, not spending a lot of time trying to setup a *de-tuned racing motor*...
I guess its *What ever turns your prop*
For me, its all about flying and having fun, not spending a lot of time trying to setup a *de-tuned racing motor*...
I guess its *What ever turns your prop*
#47
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From: Bedford, MA
Forgot to mention my MVVS 49 was as easy to tune as any OS 46FX or TT Pro-46 I own (and more powerful to boot). It's actually my MVVS 40 that initially gave me some problems. But after figuring it out, it's also a pleasure to fly with. I just received my second 49. They are awesome motors.



