I have picked the finest minds on RC-Universe but still have an Enay .60 4C that will not run.
I have checked and rechecked the timing marks and they are dead on per instructions one of our memebers sent me from the MRC website. I have made some self inflicted mistakes along the way but I think they are all behind me now. The only thing the engine will do is run backwards for a second or two if I literally flood it.
I believe I have the cams in the correct orientation and at the correct timing but...
I am missing something.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks!
JLK

I'm not a Enya man but some of the four strokes have two cams. You can get them swapped side for side and cause prablems

Enjoy,

Jim

Jim,
You're right. The Enya has two separate cams but they overlap so the gear on one is out further than the other. Right now I have the one on top of the other (I hesitate to use the term overlap here) just as the .pdf file shows but I have intentionally reversed this and still won't run...
I'm really scratching my head on this.
Thanks for the advice!
JLK

John:

Help? You might look in the Yellow Pages under "Psychiatrist."

Haw. Can you post pictures (or email) of the gear train showing the timing marks as you have them?

Bill.

Bill,
I'll try to take a picture and post or email it.
I don't know that I'll have much luck though since the parts are steel, much like a crankshaft is, and you know how dark they get.
I'll post if I can.
Thanks!
JLK

Bill,
Here's the best I can do.
I even tried to use whiteout but my cheap digital camera won't focus close enough to do us any good.
Now if I could use my Dad's Leica M3 with 35mm lense that I inherited...
JLK

John:

Give me reasonably high resolution shots, I can make my own close-ups.

Looks like they should be near enough to run. There must be some piddly thing we are both not thinking of.

Regards the lobe difference you mentioned. The up and down ramps generally look the same, but the down ramp on the exhaust lobe (red arrow, first picture) is obviously not the same as the up ramp. If this is wear, I've never seen a model cam worn this badly, or this evenly, but I've seen similar wear in auto cams, but only on one or maybe two lobes. the engine run goes to pot and... Come to think of it...

Your speaking of the Leica M3 makes me jealous. Third picture is what I have to put up with to get a good shot.

Bill.

John:

Just for the halibut, switch the cams side for side and see what happens.

Bill.

Bill,
It's the crumby pictures I posted.
Both cams are symmetrical and have nothing other than the normal surface "polishing" type wear.
The coarseness of the cam gear surfaces was exaggerated as well.
The M3 was one of my Dad's pride and joys.
He bought it in Germany in 1963.
Has the 35mm, 55mm and 125mm lenses as well.
I use only rarely.
Who know what's on the roll of film in it now!
I had a Pentax that I was always bragging about.
One Spring day when the azaleas were blooming in Texas he said "OK, get your camera and take the best picture you can and I'll do the same. We'll compare when they are developed."
Side by side there was no comparison. The lenses on that camera a really something!
JLK

Bill,
I've already swapped them.
Wouldn't run...
JLK

John, can you post the page of the manual with the timing illustration on it? I have the 1.20, but this looks different.

I'm wondering if IA has something to do with the not starting factor.

Glow fuel doesn't like cold weather.

Enjoy,

Jim

Bill,
I can't attach the .pdf file for Tim to look at.
What am I doing wrong?
JLK

Jim,
You know the temp could be a contributing factor.
Although the other day when I kept disassembling, reassembling, trying to run it the outside temp was in the low 50's and the motor and fuel were in a heated garage until I would push it out the back door and then immediately try to start it.
The garage temp was in the mid 60's.
JLK

tim:

Here is the page I sent to John, I got it from the Altech/MRC site. It's a bother to find, but if you want the URL I suppose I could go get it again. The reason I kept a copy because it's so hard to find.

Bill.

I don't think the PM system will let you attach a PDF?

John, is your timing illustration the same as this?

John:

You can't attach a .pdf file, it has to be converted to a regular graphic format. the one I posted above is a JPEG file.
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Tim:

Enya has three different set-up arrangements - your 120 is different from the mid-size John has.

Bill.

Bill, is the exhaust lobe on your drawing supposed to be a hidden view like mine? Maybe the exhaust cam needs to go end for end?

Tim:

You will note the page I posted has no illustration for the 1.20 engine. the the best of the information at hand, the 1.20 is the only one that has the two lobes between the gears, the smaller engines both have the gears in front of the lobes.

Here's the pertinent section of your picture, enlarged and (I think) easier to see/understand.

Bill.

Tim:

I notice also that your sheet gives 20-60-60-20 timing on the 1.20 while my sheet gives that for all BUT the 1.20, and the 1.20 at 30-70-70-30. And that's a lot hotter than the 20-60 timing.
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John:

Do you have any way to degree the can and valves/

Bill.

According to the diagrams and pictures, he has the exhaust cam on backwards and in the wrong place with the intake cam.

He has the intake on top. The intake goes on the bottom with the lobe out. The exhaust goes on top with the lobe in?

Bill,
I don't have a way to measure the degrees.
JLK

John, the only difference between the illustration Bill provided and what you have in your picture, is the driven gear on the exhaust cam should be behind the driven gear on the intake cam. That is if I'm seeing it right.

I have an NIB (though several years old) Enya 60 four stroke--if you don't get your problem sorted out, PM me and I will open mine up and check the cams and report back.