Frag

I've had my new Moki 2.10 mounted up on my Carl Goldberg Yak 54 for a month or so now and today was break-in day. I expected to go out and fuel up the tank with my self mixed methanol and castor oil (80/20) and have it crank up with a few flips .
[:@]
It never even coughed, spat, hiccupped -nothing
I left all the settings at factory which should have been way rich for break-in. I filled the tank with my homebrew, got it primed by opening the throttle and covering the Brisson muffler outlets and turning the engine over until it was leaking fuel from the carb. Closed the carb down to idle and applied glow starter, gave it a bunch of flips with a chicken stick. Nothing.
Its got good compression though, I have to turn through it. Checked the glow plug. Glowed red - OS F plug. Tried it again....nothing. Maybe its the fuel I'm thinking. Suck out the homebrew and put in 5% FAI Morgans. Prime, glow starter applied, flip x20...nothing. OK....I try a different fuel....Omega 15% just to see if it'll cough or anything....nope. Tried all these fuel with a OS #3 also...nothing. Large tubing is used from clunk to carb. Glow battery is giving 1.38 Volts.

Well.....what else to check? I after trying all these combinations I tried moving the high speed from all the way out rich to almost all the way in. I moved the low speed disk very slightly rich and lean then dead on center.

The engine is mounted inverted and the tank center line is maybe just a little above the carb - it doesn't flood the carb when its just sitting there on the ground.

Any ideas would be appreciated

RTD

Frag,

I experienced exactly the same problem with my Moki 180 when I was breaking it in. I'm no Moki expert but here is what works for me and my Moki 180:

- prime it very well, these engines like to be very wet before they will start. I choke mine for at least 4-5 full turns and when it's wet enough you can hear a slurping sound as you flip it over. I think that sound is made as air and fuel pass through the front bearing.

- turn the glow heat up very high. I've used the Moki gold coloured plug and an OS FS plug. They are both good plugs but I prefer the Moki plug and it will start the motor first flip every time if I adjust the current to near 3 to 4 amps (not 2 amps like I use on OS#8 in all my little engines).

- with the glow heat applied, hold the prop very tightly and turn it through compression. If you feel a good positive bump you are ready to go. If no bump, you haven't got it wet enough or not enough heat on the plug.

- with the throttle set to just open, give it a solid back flip and she should fire into life.

Good luck,
Arthur

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

Inverted Moki's seem to be a real beeotch to start. I've read a lot of threads about it.

Frag

Break-in is in progress

THE key to the starting in my setup was to NOT rely on plugging the muffler stacks and priming to get fuel into the carb/engine, but to instead cover the carb with a finger while turning the prop to prime. Before, when I just covered the exhaust stacks to prime, all the prime would just drip out all over the ground. By plugging the carb off with a finger, the fuel has to get up in the engine to get a proper prime instead of just coming straight out of the carb and onto the ground. I did also follow the clockwise bumping with a chicken stick to get it going.
And the homebrew 80% methanol and 20% castor that I mixed is working just fine.
Man, this thing is really going to give the airframe a vibration test! If it survives the break-in then this CG Yak 54 should never come apart! Now I'm off to get the rest of this gallon of fuel through the engine and wake up the neighbors..

majortom-RCU

My Feedback: (40)

For cowled two-strokes, where it's awkward to hold a finger over the carb and still be able to turn the prop over, get a rubber stopper from the hardware section at Home Depot. They come in a range of sizes. Just open the throttle, plug the throat, turn maybe five cranks--until you hear the squishing sound. Then remove the stopper, throttle back, glow on, do the bump test if you like, then backflip and you're off.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Your not running the engine without the wings on? Are you?

The wings act as a dampener and will smooth out the vibrations transmitted through the airframe.

Frag

Psychic?


Ok, I put the wings on and it cut the vibration down 80% - thanks for the tip ...Always glad to learn something to make things work better and/or easier

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Psychic? No.

I saw a guy start a 50cc gasser without the wings on a plane once. One of the guys in the pits told him not to start the engine without the wings on--but he wouldn't listen. About 1 minute into running the engine--horizontal stab snapped right off.


Glad I could help.

RCflying

My Feedback: (28)

The cover that comes on the end of a glow ignitor works perfect priming the Moki 2.10. It fits absolutely perfect.

j.duncker

My Feedback: (2)

Get a can of model diesel fuel.

Fill the model tank with glow fuel and suck up to carb as usual.

Prime through the carb with DIESEL FUEL and This works well with new engines with poor ring seals and in colder conditions can be essential.

LuvBipes

My Feedback: (4)

Frag, you mite want to listen to Joe and SIDE MOUNT that engine. FYI I broke in my 4th Moki this past weekend and it started on the FIRST backflip after a good prime. Engine is side mounted, though........ Main NV was 3 full turns out for nice rich running.