soaking an engine
#26
I've done it both ways...intact and dis-assembled.
If you don't want to take an engine apart, I would suggest a light, pre-bath scrubbing or brush off before soaking, to lessen the chance of grit getting into the engine, unless it's only varnish.
The way I look at it is that antifreeze is designed for all different types of metals, and most types of hoses and gaskets, and I would think most o-rings or whatever is in/on a model engine.
It won't hurt if a little gets left inside, but why do that when you can just rinse it out with fuel, or denatured alcohol, or gummout, etc. and oil well...
Then if I'm doing it for myself, I'll mount it on my test stand and run it for awhile just to hear what it sounds like, then use after-run oil.
If you don't want to take an engine apart, I would suggest a light, pre-bath scrubbing or brush off before soaking, to lessen the chance of grit getting into the engine, unless it's only varnish.
The way I look at it is that antifreeze is designed for all different types of metals, and most types of hoses and gaskets, and I would think most o-rings or whatever is in/on a model engine.
It won't hurt if a little gets left inside, but why do that when you can just rinse it out with fuel, or denatured alcohol, or gummout, etc. and oil well...
Then if I'm doing it for myself, I'll mount it on my test stand and run it for awhile just to hear what it sounds like, then use after-run oil.
ORIGINAL: ryan_m
Question about the anti-freeze soak method... can you just drop the whole engine in there, or do you need to disassemble it first?
I have a couple of 4 stroke engines that need cleaning. They aren't gummed up to the point of not turning over, they will turn, but there is thickish fuel (still liquid) in the carb area and lots of varnish on the outside of the engine/muffler. I would like them to look better and cleaner. I believe they will run as is, but wouldn't mind cleaning up a bit to hopefully make them run better.
I also have several old - OLD - os engines that sat in storage for the last 30 years that are completely gummed up.
I am hoping to take the lazy way out and just drop the whole engine in, but wanted to ask whether or not this would be wise...
Question about the anti-freeze soak method... can you just drop the whole engine in there, or do you need to disassemble it first?
I have a couple of 4 stroke engines that need cleaning. They aren't gummed up to the point of not turning over, they will turn, but there is thickish fuel (still liquid) in the carb area and lots of varnish on the outside of the engine/muffler. I would like them to look better and cleaner. I believe they will run as is, but wouldn't mind cleaning up a bit to hopefully make them run better.
I also have several old - OLD - os engines that sat in storage for the last 30 years that are completely gummed up.
I am hoping to take the lazy way out and just drop the whole engine in, but wanted to ask whether or not this would be wise...
#27

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From: Weatherford,
TX
ORIGINAL: ryan_m
Question about the anti-freeze soak method... can you just drop the whole engine in there, or do you need to disassemble it first?
I have a couple of 4 stroke engines that need cleaning. They aren't gummed up to the point of not turning over, they will turn, but there is thickish fuel (still liquid) in the carb area and lots of varnish on the outside of the engine/muffler. I would like them to look better and cleaner. I believe they will run as is, but wouldn't mind cleaning up a bit to hopefully make them run better.
I also have several old - OLD - os engines that sat in storage for the last 30 years that are completely gummed up.
I am hoping to take the lazy way out and just drop the whole engine in, but wanted to ask whether or not this would be wise...
Question about the anti-freeze soak method... can you just drop the whole engine in there, or do you need to disassemble it first?
I have a couple of 4 stroke engines that need cleaning. They aren't gummed up to the point of not turning over, they will turn, but there is thickish fuel (still liquid) in the carb area and lots of varnish on the outside of the engine/muffler. I would like them to look better and cleaner. I believe they will run as is, but wouldn't mind cleaning up a bit to hopefully make them run better.
I also have several old - OLD - os engines that sat in storage for the last 30 years that are completely gummed up.
I am hoping to take the lazy way out and just drop the whole engine in, but wanted to ask whether or not this would be wise...
Good luck,
Cheers,
Chip
#28
The only times I've had antifreeze "attack" a gasket is when the gasket is so old and crumbly that it would be virtually useless as a gasket anyway. I've done at least 50 engines with this method.
A lot of cars have o-ring thermostat gaskets now...and in the 4 years I've been doing this the only sealing problem I had was when I did an old Torpedo silver head .19 and the black head gasket material partially disolved.(mainly because it's 40+ yrs. old )
If you're boiling it you're getting it WAY too hot!
Get a cooking thermometer...shouldn't need to get over 130-140 degrees.
Best way to do it is to make a basket out of steel window screen and a piece of music wire loop handle, so you can suspend the engine in the basket...
Use another piece of wire straddling the pot, and hang the basket, so the baskets bottom is raised a little above the bottom of the pot, and all the crud can come off the engine and fall thru the holes in the screen and settle on the bottom of the pot.
Also, if you dis-assemble the engine, you won't have to fish around in the cruddy bottom of the pot for the parts
Edit: Another thing about the need to dis-assemble an engine...
I finished cleaning an O.S. .91 Surpass for a friend a few days ago, and didn't remove anything except the muffler, which I cooked along side the engine.
My buddy flew the engine yesterday, and no problems whatsoever...runs like a champ
Just make sure you flush all the liquids out before you start it, so you don't "hydraulic" it...
Only thing you might have to do is cook a muffler, or head for a long time because sometimes the caked on stuff can be real stubborn. That's when a variety of "detailing" brushes come in handy...(they sell sets of detailing brushes for detailing cars )
The one with soft brass bristles can help with a really browned muffler.
A lot of cars have o-ring thermostat gaskets now...and in the 4 years I've been doing this the only sealing problem I had was when I did an old Torpedo silver head .19 and the black head gasket material partially disolved.(mainly because it's 40+ yrs. old )
If you're boiling it you're getting it WAY too hot!
Get a cooking thermometer...shouldn't need to get over 130-140 degrees.
Best way to do it is to make a basket out of steel window screen and a piece of music wire loop handle, so you can suspend the engine in the basket...
Use another piece of wire straddling the pot, and hang the basket, so the baskets bottom is raised a little above the bottom of the pot, and all the crud can come off the engine and fall thru the holes in the screen and settle on the bottom of the pot.
Also, if you dis-assemble the engine, you won't have to fish around in the cruddy bottom of the pot for the parts

Edit: Another thing about the need to dis-assemble an engine...
I finished cleaning an O.S. .91 Surpass for a friend a few days ago, and didn't remove anything except the muffler, which I cooked along side the engine.
My buddy flew the engine yesterday, and no problems whatsoever...runs like a champ

Just make sure you flush all the liquids out before you start it, so you don't "hydraulic" it...
Only thing you might have to do is cook a muffler, or head for a long time because sometimes the caked on stuff can be real stubborn. That's when a variety of "detailing" brushes come in handy...(they sell sets of detailing brushes for detailing cars )
The one with soft brass bristles can help with a really browned muffler.
#29
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From: Palm Harbor, FL
Last night my wife donated her old and smaller crock pot to the cause. It can stay outside on the bench on the screen porch. You all should be aware that anti freeze ie: ethelyne glycol, is extremely poisonous to dogs and they love the tast and smell. Never leave your pot where an animal can get at it.
#30
ORIGINAL: philreuman
Last night my wife donated her old and smaller crock pot to the cause. It can stay outside on the bench on the screen porch. You all should be aware that anti freeze ie: ethelyne glycol, is extremely poisonous to dogs and they love the tast and smell. Never leave your pot where an animal can get at it.
Last night my wife donated her old and smaller crock pot to the cause. It can stay outside on the bench on the screen porch. You all should be aware that anti freeze ie: ethelyne glycol, is extremely poisonous to dogs and they love the tast and smell. Never leave your pot where an animal can get at it.
Jens Eirik
#31
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From: no city,
AL
ORIGINAL: philreuman
Last night my wife donated her old and smaller crock pot to the cause. It can stay outside on the bench on the screen porch. You all should be aware that anti freeze ie: ethelyne glycol, is extremely poisonous to dogs and they love the tast and smell. Never leave your pot where an animal can get at it.
Last night my wife donated her old and smaller crock pot to the cause. It can stay outside on the bench on the screen porch. You all should be aware that anti freeze ie: ethelyne glycol, is extremely poisonous to dogs and they love the tast and smell. Never leave your pot where an animal can get at it.
].Come to think of it I remember reading of a couple of cases where guys were poisoned by their wives using AF[X(]!!!
jess
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From: Palm Harbor, FL
I gave the crock pot soaking a try. Works great on low. I left the 108 in overnight and it is clean but started to turn grey. The next one was a scrungy 48 four stroke. I left it 4 hours and stirred ocasionaly. every dirty spot touched with an old tooth brush came clean and it looks like a new engine. I cooled it in cold water, turned it over to get trapped fluid out of the exhaust, carb, crank case, and head. then I hosed it down with wd40 in all the openings and put it on the test stand. It started right up and runs very well. My pot probably gets too hot for longer than four hours soak. it only has high and low settings. it still steams a little.
#35
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ORIGINAL: philreuman
I gave the crock pot soaking a try. Works great on low. I left the 108 in overnight and it is clean but started to turn grey. The next one was a scrungy 48 four stroke. I left it 4 hours and stirred ocasionaly. every dirty spot touched with an old tooth brush came clean and it looks like a new engine. I cooled it in cold water, turned it over to get trapped fluid out of the exhaust, carb, crank case, and head. then I hosed it down with wd40 in all the openings and put it on the test stand. It started right up and runs very well. My pot probably gets too hot for longer than four hours soak. it only has high and low settings. it still steams a little.
I gave the crock pot soaking a try. Works great on low. I left the 108 in overnight and it is clean but started to turn grey. The next one was a scrungy 48 four stroke. I left it 4 hours and stirred ocasionaly. every dirty spot touched with an old tooth brush came clean and it looks like a new engine. I cooled it in cold water, turned it over to get trapped fluid out of the exhaust, carb, crank case, and head. then I hosed it down with wd40 in all the openings and put it on the test stand. It started right up and runs very well. My pot probably gets too hot for longer than four hours soak. it only has high and low settings. it still steams a little.
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Pick up a light dimmer switch at Lowes, or wherever, and wire it into the crockpot's power cord. Then you have an infintely adjustable crockpot. Be sure to get one with a large enough power handling capability.
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From: PORT ALFRED, SOUTH AFRICA
Hi guys. I have a HPI T-15 and just want two know how to clean it or what i need to clean it with, Because it is so dirty and full of grim. So does eney one know how to clean it?





. My ST .90 looks like new.