Ok, it's getting colder up here in Michigan and soon I'll be stuck in the shop working on next season’s kits and breaking in a few engines, a first for me in the winter months. What should I be concerned with / looking out for when the temperatures drop. Do we take different steps with colder cylinder heads / plugs. I keep the fuel in my shop (basement) and engines as well. But metal can get cold rather quickly when exposed to the elements.

Thanks,
Wiqar

Hi all

yes I would like to know also, as I have two engines I want to break in this weekend.

Thanks

You want to get the engine up to temp as quick as possible. Thats even harder during cold temps. What I usually do when Im breaking in an engine (winter or summer) is to heat the engine up wth a hair dryer. The few times I have broken in an engine during cold temps, I used some aluminum foil to cover part of the heat sink in order to get the temps up quick and keep them there. In the cold temps its harder to keep them hot enough.

The foil is the only thing I did any different from a summer break in. Personally... the only time I use a temp gun is during break in. Just to make sure its gets up to 200+.
I use the heat cycle method of breaking in my engines.

Good luck and make sure you have good ventilation. :-)

Ray, Frank, Wiqar,


If any of the engines you are breaking in is of a tapared-bore type, here is a good [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Tapered%2DBore_Engine_Break%2Din_%2D_Upgraded/m_1850473/tm.htm]procedure[/link] to follow for break-in.

This will not be the right procedure if it is a ringed engine, or a lapped meehanite piston/steel sleeve engine.

Cold weather will make an ABC/ABN even tighter and it is a good idea to use a heat gun on the cylinder and the head, to facilitate start-up the first couple of runs.


Ray, the heat-cycle method is good only for a lapped meehanite piston/steel sleeve engine.
For all other engine types it is a mere hassle.

VERY good info. I learned somthing new today!!!

I'm an ex instructor for R/C flying. Over the years I have developed a loathing for running out of battery power for starting engines, whether for the starter or the glow igniter. Consequently, my field box contains a very hefty battery for field support duties. Even so, I charge it weekly and keep it on float with a motorcycle charger. Anyone bringing equipment to the field without charging their batteries is in for a good lecture from me.

I use my oversized field box battery to power an electric starter, fuel pump, power panel and a fast field charger. With that, I am ready to fly at a moment's notice without having to specially charge my R/C system seperately at home. This allows me to take whichever model strikes my fancy. I'm not limited to the model that I remembered to charge the night before. I've been charging my radios on the way to field for well over a decade now with no problems. Yes, it can limit your selection of battery types. Nicads serve me the best.

With all of that said, you don't need a heat gun at the field, even in cold weather. The glow plug in the engine is quite capable of providing enough heat to warm up the engine sufficiently to start, even on the coldest days, IF you have a large enough battery in your field box.

I am one of the few that also still uses a power panel. This lets me adjust the current to the glow plug, which prevents me from burning out glow plugs while in the process of heating up the engine in prestart mode. Life does not have to be complicated.

Yes, there are other successful methodologies. This just happens to be the one that suits me best.