TT .46 install
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From: Port Orchard,
WA
First plane/first engine. I'm using a Hi-tech Flash 5 radio & TT Pro .46 and trying to get the engine kill button adjusted right.
With the throttle stick all the way down making the carb fully closed I can't see the point of an engine kill button. If I open the carb 1/8 or so and adjust the linkage so it stays open when my stick is all the way down then hit the engine kill it closes the carb fully thus killing the engine.
I have never started or ran an engine before. My question is should I set it up so it's fully closed when the stick is down and fully open when up, or should it not be fully closed when down so I have some kind of idle when the stick is all the way down?
Is it OK to rotate the carb to get my adjustment or should the carb be set parallel to the engine?
Thanks for the help - Chris.
With the throttle stick all the way down making the carb fully closed I can't see the point of an engine kill button. If I open the carb 1/8 or so and adjust the linkage so it stays open when my stick is all the way down then hit the engine kill it closes the carb fully thus killing the engine.
I have never started or ran an engine before. My question is should I set it up so it's fully closed when the stick is down and fully open when up, or should it not be fully closed when down so I have some kind of idle when the stick is all the way down?
Is it OK to rotate the carb to get my adjustment or should the carb be set parallel to the engine?
Thanks for the help - Chris.
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From: Spencerport, NY
You should adjust the carburetor so the engine will idle with the throttle stick all the way down. Then, when you press the kill switch, the carburetor should close fully. Use your throttle trim to adjust the idle when the engine is running.
Why do you feel you have to rotate the carburetor to get the adjustment? Adjusting the length of the pushrod should achieve the same purpose.
Why do you feel you have to rotate the carburetor to get the adjustment? Adjusting the length of the pushrod should achieve the same purpose.
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From: Montgomery,
AL
I didn't understand the last sentence about the parallel carb rotation.
But to answer your question about throttle setting...
Set your radio and linkage so the carb is all the way open when your throttle stick is all the way up. Make sure the servo isn't trying to push the carb even further as this will strain and drain your servo battery.
You should have a little space in the carb when the throttle stick is all the way closed...this will allow for idle...you don't want the engine to quit when your stick is all the way down.
While the engine is running, adjust your radio End Point Adjustment (EPA) to lower or raise the idle to a satisfactory level.
Your "Kill" swich will then shut then engine off.
But to answer your question about throttle setting...
Set your radio and linkage so the carb is all the way open when your throttle stick is all the way up. Make sure the servo isn't trying to push the carb even further as this will strain and drain your servo battery.
You should have a little space in the carb when the throttle stick is all the way closed...this will allow for idle...you don't want the engine to quit when your stick is all the way down.
While the engine is running, adjust your radio End Point Adjustment (EPA) to lower or raise the idle to a satisfactory level.
Your "Kill" swich will then shut then engine off.
#4
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From: Marietta, GA
"With the throttle stick all the way down making the carb fully closed I can't see the point of an engine kill button."
The point of the engine kill button:
When coming in for a landing, or throttling down for some other maneuver, you want to be able to do it without stalling the engine. If your engine is set to shut off with the stick all the way down, you would have to move the stick to a position just above that to bring the engine to a low idle. The only two ways I can think of to do that, while flying, are
1) to take your eyes off of your plane and look down at your transmitter, which is a sure recipe for disaster, or
2) listen to the engine and slowly move the stick down until you think it is idling. Because there are sometimes other planes in the air and the occassional person tuning their engine in the pits, it is not always possible to hear your engine.
So, on a digital-trim transmitter, you set the engine up so it idles well with the trottle fully down. Then you can fly and not worry about the engine dying. Once you have landed and are ready to shut off the engine, you push the button.
On transmitters without digital trims, you use the throttle trim lever for the same purpose.
I would not rotate the carburetor to adjust your throttle trim. You want your carburetor throttle linkage perpendicular to the movement of the throttle cable coming from your servo.
The point of the engine kill button:
When coming in for a landing, or throttling down for some other maneuver, you want to be able to do it without stalling the engine. If your engine is set to shut off with the stick all the way down, you would have to move the stick to a position just above that to bring the engine to a low idle. The only two ways I can think of to do that, while flying, are
1) to take your eyes off of your plane and look down at your transmitter, which is a sure recipe for disaster, or
2) listen to the engine and slowly move the stick down until you think it is idling. Because there are sometimes other planes in the air and the occassional person tuning their engine in the pits, it is not always possible to hear your engine.
So, on a digital-trim transmitter, you set the engine up so it idles well with the trottle fully down. Then you can fly and not worry about the engine dying. Once you have landed and are ready to shut off the engine, you push the button.
On transmitters without digital trims, you use the throttle trim lever for the same purpose.
I would not rotate the carburetor to adjust your throttle trim. You want your carburetor throttle linkage perpendicular to the movement of the throttle cable coming from your servo.
#5

Chris,
I have never used a 'kill switch' before.
That being said this is how I set up mine:
TX stick at full throttle=carb open full-without binding the servo.
TX stick and trim tab all the way down=carb fully closed-without binding the servo.
Idle is then attained by use of the trim tab.
I guess you might say I use my trim tab as a 'kill switch.'
The needle valve/spraybar assembly should be perpendicular to the crankshaft.
Adjustments can be made by increasing/decreasing the pushrod length and/or the servo arm attachment point.
Adjustments can also be made to the servo endpoints via the TX.
Getting some first-hand experienced help would be a very good idea. (Having someone with experience actually look/help you with the installation.)
Good Luck,
Jeff
I have never used a 'kill switch' before.
That being said this is how I set up mine:
TX stick at full throttle=carb open full-without binding the servo.
TX stick and trim tab all the way down=carb fully closed-without binding the servo.
Idle is then attained by use of the trim tab.
I guess you might say I use my trim tab as a 'kill switch.'
The needle valve/spraybar assembly should be perpendicular to the crankshaft.
Adjustments can be made by increasing/decreasing the pushrod length and/or the servo arm attachment point.
Adjustments can also be made to the servo endpoints via the TX.
Getting some first-hand experienced help would be a very good idea. (Having someone with experience actually look/help you with the installation.)
Good Luck,
Jeff
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From: Port Orchard,
WA
Thanks everyone for the response. I got it figured out now.
TX stick up - wide open
TX stick down - idle
Just didn't know how far open would obtain an idle. I have it at about 1/16 of an inch and my trim at 50% so I should be OK.
I hadn't tightened the carb down yet and it seemed easier to turn the carb ever so slightly to obtain the idle rather than readjusting the servo arm or adjusting the pushrod length.
The kill switch does move a lot faster than killing with the trim I see.
TX stick up - wide open
TX stick down - idle
Just didn't know how far open would obtain an idle. I have it at about 1/16 of an inch and my trim at 50% so I should be OK.
I hadn't tightened the carb down yet and it seemed easier to turn the carb ever so slightly to obtain the idle rather than readjusting the servo arm or adjusting the pushrod length.
The kill switch does move a lot faster than killing with the trim I see.



