ASP manual
#1
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From: TemseOost Vlaanderen, BELGIUM
Hi, Does any of you have an ASP .46 manual?
I am living in Shanghai and bought the engine here, cheap, but the manual is only in Chinese.
Since I am a beginner, a readable manual would be a great help.
I downloaded an OS manual since the ASP is a clone, but I have the impression that the basic needle setting are totally different.
Thanks.
I am living in Shanghai and bought the engine here, cheap, but the manual is only in Chinese.
Since I am a beginner, a readable manual would be a great help.
I downloaded an OS manual since the ASP is a clone, but I have the impression that the basic needle setting are totally different.
Thanks.
#2
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
Hi
I've got a new ASP 25A. Goes really well, strong performer. The manual is not nuch use, 2 sides of A4, mostly deals with safety.
The guts of it......
Throttle stop open the thickness of a modeling pin.
High speed needle 1.5 turns open.
Idle needle +0.5 turn open from when you detect air movement blowing down the fuel line.
They suggest using WD40 as after-run lub, I use tranny oil, WD40 is not a good lubricator. Run in not necessary, crap use 15% nitro 20% castor oil for the first half hour then go to 10% nitro, synthetic oil with 4-6% castol oil only to stop varnish build up. If you really need it I could scan the page and email it to you but a friend who knows engines will be much more use.
Good luck........
I've got a new ASP 25A. Goes really well, strong performer. The manual is not nuch use, 2 sides of A4, mostly deals with safety.
The guts of it......
Throttle stop open the thickness of a modeling pin.
High speed needle 1.5 turns open.
Idle needle +0.5 turn open from when you detect air movement blowing down the fuel line.
They suggest using WD40 as after-run lub, I use tranny oil, WD40 is not a good lubricator. Run in not necessary, crap use 15% nitro 20% castor oil for the first half hour then go to 10% nitro, synthetic oil with 4-6% castol oil only to stop varnish build up. If you really need it I could scan the page and email it to you but a friend who knows engines will be much more use.
Good luck........
#3
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From: Amadora, PORTUGAL
From someone who knows about ASP engines (Just Engines, UK):
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2-stroke ABC engine break-in:
Open needle on the rich side, around 2 1/2~3 turns.
Choke the carb with your finger and draw fuel through by turning the prop 6-8 times.
Set the barrel at 1/4 open and start. Run 2-3 minutes of the first tank at this setting (very rich 2-stroking, but not 4-stroking rich), so as to bed in and lubricate all parts.
Then allow the engine to cool and re-check the tightness of all bolts and tighten if necessary.
Run the 2nd/3rd tank through at approx. 1/2 throttle, again with a rich mixture (now coming into a solid 2-stroke setting).
4th tank onwards - set the carb FULLY OPEN and run the engine at this setting, ensuring you can still feel unused oil on your finger tips, exiting the silencer. This allows the engine to get to operating temperature and rpm high enough to allow the piston to run-in against the liner, whilst still ensuring sufficient lubrication.
Allow the engine to cool between runs, Gradually lean the mixture over the next few tanks until the engine is happy operating at full throttle and rpm.
Use a fuel containning some castor in it as full synth fuel takes longer to properly break-in the engine.
Change glow plug after break-in.
----------------------
2-stroke ABC engine break-in:
Open needle on the rich side, around 2 1/2~3 turns.
Choke the carb with your finger and draw fuel through by turning the prop 6-8 times.
Set the barrel at 1/4 open and start. Run 2-3 minutes of the first tank at this setting (very rich 2-stroking, but not 4-stroking rich), so as to bed in and lubricate all parts.
Then allow the engine to cool and re-check the tightness of all bolts and tighten if necessary.
Run the 2nd/3rd tank through at approx. 1/2 throttle, again with a rich mixture (now coming into a solid 2-stroke setting).
4th tank onwards - set the carb FULLY OPEN and run the engine at this setting, ensuring you can still feel unused oil on your finger tips, exiting the silencer. This allows the engine to get to operating temperature and rpm high enough to allow the piston to run-in against the liner, whilst still ensuring sufficient lubrication.
Allow the engine to cool between runs, Gradually lean the mixture over the next few tanks until the engine is happy operating at full throttle and rpm.
Use a fuel containning some castor in it as full synth fuel takes longer to properly break-in the engine.
Change glow plug after break-in.
#4
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From: TemseOost Vlaanderen, BELGIUM
Thanks guys, I just got someone here to translate the manual in English and indeed it is pretty poor. A typical thing here in China.
Anyway, the manual suggests to use 10% nitro, but they only sell 15% here. I did do a test run with it and it seems to run pretty good.
Should this be a problem?
Anyway, the manual suggests to use 10% nitro, but they only sell 15% here. I did do a test run with it and it seems to run pretty good.
Should this be a problem?
#5
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The engine is ok on 5% nitro ... you really do not need 15% at all. Try this website for info. The manual does not help much, I got it in English but its no use. www.justengines.co.uk
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From: PerthWA, AUSTRALIA
Hey Filipdvm - I'm in Tianjin and sure do agree with your sentiments on the quality of the manuals.
I know this is off topic but:
Do you know of any good model shops in Shanghai?. My two sons arrrive here today for a couple of weeks and we will be travelling to Shanghai next week for a visit.
I know this is off topic but:
Do you know of any good model shops in Shanghai?. My two sons arrrive here today for a couple of weeks and we will be travelling to Shanghai next week for a visit.
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From: TemseOost Vlaanderen, BELGIUM
Hi Aussiesteve,
There are three shops that I know of. here are their websites, where you can find the address:
www.shanghaihobby.com (small shop with friendly people and good prices, but they don't have too many on stock, most things you have to order, very little English)
www.shanghai.waigohobby.com (bigger shop, pricier, lots of cars and heli's, manager speaks English)
The third one in on HongMeiLu, the part between HongQiaoLu and YananXiLu. (small shop mainly rc toys, friendly Japanese guy, speaks English)
Hope this helps.
There are three shops that I know of. here are their websites, where you can find the address:
www.shanghaihobby.com (small shop with friendly people and good prices, but they don't have too many on stock, most things you have to order, very little English)
www.shanghai.waigohobby.com (bigger shop, pricier, lots of cars and heli's, manager speaks English)
The third one in on HongMeiLu, the part between HongQiaoLu and YananXiLu. (small shop mainly rc toys, friendly Japanese guy, speaks English)
Hope this helps.




