Will MRC / ENYA replace / repair engine
#51
Go to http://enya-engine.com/Parts_E.html and scroll down for the needle valves and the venturis. If you email them and say which engine it's for then they'll either have one of the original alloy venturis or a suitable nylon type. As a guide to prices, one yen is close to one cent.
I like their ST style needle valve
.
I like their ST style needle valve
.
#52
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From: santa fe,
TX
ok..am familiar with the Enya nva..with the springy extension..and I know the ST spray bar and the Enya must almost be the same size...but are you saying that Enya has a ST type needle valve also...or you just like the St one...sorry to be confusing the issue....
Is the shipping for things from Japan expensive...seems like there ought to be a source for those old nva except having to get them from across the world...
Is the shipping for things from Japan expensive...seems like there ought to be a source for those old nva except having to get them from across the world...
#54
ORIGINAL: ponda
but are you saying that Enya has a ST type needle valve also...or you just like the St one...
but are you saying that Enya has a ST type needle valve also...or you just like the St one...
#55
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From: santa fe,
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Hmmm..think I am doing this right...Is the price for thr st type NVA like $19 compared to the Enya conventional
NVA $6.00...that seems like a hell of a disparity...just That doesnt seem correct..someone please advise..
thanks..joe
NVA $6.00...that seems like a hell of a disparity...just That doesnt seem correct..someone please advise..
thanks..joe
#56
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ORIGINAL: Richard39
Everyone, nice replies and good advice.. I do want to make it clear that Mr. Ken Enya was very gracious and helpful.... He just would not consider any warrenty repairs... regardlesss... I may send him the engine for his evaluation and let us all just see what happens.... The skirt on the piston has a chip missing where there is a little curve/cut out place... I did get the piston out when heated in an oven but I can not get it close to going back in... The sleeve seems fine... I have it completly broken down.... I am just not sure that it is worth the expense to ship to Japan and then pay full price for parts and repairs... some warrenty consideration would be nice....
Everyone, nice replies and good advice.. I do want to make it clear that Mr. Ken Enya was very gracious and helpful.... He just would not consider any warrenty repairs... regardlesss... I may send him the engine for his evaluation and let us all just see what happens.... The skirt on the piston has a chip missing where there is a little curve/cut out place... I did get the piston out when heated in an oven but I can not get it close to going back in... The sleeve seems fine... I have it completly broken down.... I am just not sure that it is worth the expense to ship to Japan and then pay full price for parts and repairs... some warrenty consideration would be nice....
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This is precisely why the end user should never disassemble the engine when still under warranty. Send it back to the folks that know the engines. And I agree with others that said that if the engine is still under warranty, the Altec folks should fix it. Maybe they will...
Ed Cregger
#57
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ORIGINAL: Richard39
I do not believe that I run any engine too lean as I go more for a little rich and lose a few rpm's as a rule... I have been using PowerMaster 15% Nitro and 18% oil/castor/syn mix... for over a year... would that sound like it was running on the wrong fuel and too lean....? We all realize that there are two schools on castor or castor/syn or synthetic only... It is a catch 22....
I do not believe that I run any engine too lean as I go more for a little rich and lose a few rpm's as a rule... I have been using PowerMaster 15% Nitro and 18% oil/castor/syn mix... for over a year... would that sound like it was running on the wrong fuel and too lean....? We all realize that there are two schools on castor or castor/syn or synthetic only... It is a catch 22....
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There are lots of folks that waste their money buying STP and other oil additives out of ignorance. Does this mean that we should accord them equal credibility versus the engineers that design lubricants for autos/trucks/model airplane engines? I don't think so, Tim.
Castor oil has been proven superior for most model airplane applications for many decades now. Others have tried, but no one selling oil in the US has made the grade (excluding Cooper - not familiar with his products). Furthermore, if the manufacturer says to use all castor oil lube, there is no justification not to do so. Fox engines ran great on all castor lube, but if you switched to synthetic, even with a tad of castor oil, you grossly shortened the engine's useful lifespan and lowered the engine's performance. Sometimes, just once in a while, the old things are still the best things and sometimes the old farts are right.
I went through an "all synthetic lube" phase in the early Eighties myself. I hated getting that gooey castor oil all over my pattern ships. I did make out okay with the synthetics, but you really had to be on your toes regarding tuning, especially when using a tuned pipe.
I'm using model slang here, so no one need to display their pedantic side by correcting me. Although, if you really must, I guess it is okay. <G>
Ed Cregger
#58

I lived in Japan while in the Navy. I bet Mr. Enya will serve you well. Sent your engine to him. Japanies people are very proud of all the do. Bet he only charges you postage.




