I just installed my very first Perry pump VP-30 in a GP Cap 232 on a Moki 1.8. It was a piece of cake, in fact, I never touched the pumps adjustment screw. I just richened up the high end like the directions said, set the high speed, then set low speed as normal and it has been working like a charm. I have the tank 14" back on the cg, so I know it's working. The best $30 I ever spent, hands down.

I have used the regulators, and I don't think they're as effective, plus it doesn't do you any good if you have your tank far back.

Chris,


Sorry about your hair...

I would have to disagree with you about the functionality of Perry pumps in general.

I have only one VP-30 but I recommended it to some of my customers flying Tai-Ji and other F3A planes, which have the fuel-tank on their C/G. Many others have selected it without any reference from me.

I don't know of any Cline in this country...

Not even one of them does not work properly.


The only Perry pump that I know of that doesn't work is a back-plate variety, which is installed in the ***** of an OS.61FR in my workshop.
It is well used and has become stuck, probably over 20 years ago.

Over the years, that has happened to a few of mine...
I put a little denatured alcohol in a fuel bulb and carefully push it into the pump. Once you un-stick the inlet check valve, a little of it will flow in and if you let it set for a while, it will soften the gummy old fuel, and you can work more in there until it finally starts to come out the other nipple. Then I put a short loop of fuel line on that connects the inlet and outlet nipples, and with some alcohol in there, I flip the prop a bunch of times looking for movement of the liquid in the line. Then a good flushing of whatever gunk is in there, and it's ready to test run.

Out of about a dozen, the only Perry pumps that I've had trouble with (2 of them ) are backplate pumps that have sat un-used for 20+ years...(one pumps bubbles, and the other drips fuel out of the weep hole )

I guess this won't work if the pump is pumping air or pushing bubbles?

Please welcome me and my personal experience to this forum! I just got home from an afternoon of adjusting and readjusting the Perry carb and VP-30 Pump on my ST 3250. Ran good but not great. Engine is brand new and I am running lube content a little high for the large ST but ST suggests the higher lube for break-in. I think this may be the reason for my frustration. I followed the instrusctions to the letter but can't get the "sweet spot" on the high/mid/low N/V setting. I messed with the pressure screw on the pump and need to know how to reset it to original setting. If I can get back to that point then I can cut back on my lube content and start over. I need some help with this and this is what these forums are for. Getting answers...not arguing! I'm all ears! Speedy

Went out to field today looking to figure out why I was having problems with my ST 3250 with Perry pump carb and VP-30 pump. I got my answer. I fueled up with a tank of Omega "Super T" fuel and followed the instructions to the letter. Engine came to life and ran perfectly after final tweaking. The problem I was having the day earlier was exactly what I suspected. Too much lube in fuel. 12% lube is perfect for the big 3250. Idle/midrange/top end were all crisp with instant transition. I used a FOX R/C Long plug with idlebar. I tried other makes of plug but the good old FOX plug worked the best. Thanks Duke!!!! We miss you! The Omega "Super T" is 12% synthetic/castor lube with 5% nitro. I actually think no nitro would actually be even better. I'm going to mix up some fuel with 12% KLOTZ KL-100 and ZERO nitro and see how this thing runs. I had a great time today. I'm gonna put the cowl and wings on this Goldberg YAK 54 and maiden it on Wednesday. Thumbs up!!! Speedy

Hi
Went out yesterday and tweaked the low end. Took about 11/2 turns (in).
Now it runs and transitions great. Idles forever. Still a little rich in the mid range, but i'll fix that next week.
Looks promising.

Anders

That's what I told you to do in Post #6 and you made fun of me

See...we told ya...all ya gotta do is "tweak" it some...[sm=thumbup.gif]
Glad you got it working!

Anders,


...And I told you this in post #5...

There is no 'walk around'. You must use all the controls at your disposal, to get the engine adjustment optimized.

Each control has a specific purpose.
Not one of them is redundant.

There are no two controls that have exactly the same affect.
Leave just one out of adjustment and your engine will very soon 'remind you' that you did...


When you trust your engine to 'remind you', it could prove painful...

Anders,
Might as well join the fun, I told you that in post #7

Glad to hear you have it running, a little more tweeking and you'll be there.

HEY! I said it in post #2! SO THERE!

I have an OS 160FX with a Perry VP30 and it runs really well with no adjustment to the pump at all. I did have the turn the low end needle in to the point of only being just over one turn out from being fully closed. My engine seems to change tone like it's four stroking when I reduce the throttle from a cruise flight to 1/4 throttle or so when I slow down. It idles and transitions great and the top end is just a little rich. Does this sound typical or does it sound like the mid range might be a little rich?

I just bought a vp30 for my st2300. What do you guys do with the muffler pressure nipple and with the tank vent tubing?

Flyboy...that's what I was talking about, when I mentioned certain O.S. carbs.
If it's running well, I wouldn't mess with it, but if you want to try tweaking it a little, I'd try backing out the regulator screw about 1/4 turn and see if that makes the mid range a little less rich.

boex...I've run them with the pressure line either connected or dis-connected...it didn't seem to make much if any difference?

The trick with the perry's is not to let it act as a pump to put any inlet pressure on the needle, let the carb design do the drawing of the fuel. The pump should be looked at as just a device to get the fuel there and thats where its job stops and the vacuum of the carb picks up and takes it from there. These little carbs dont work as fuel injectors very well.

When setting one up, use a spare tank to let the engine run on, and let the standard line empty into a cup and adjust it so it just brings fuel up to the end of the line. Even a steady dribble comming out can be too much flow and act strange with needle settings. Remember the carb will still have a draw effect on its own.

Boex,


You should leave the tank pressure line open to the atmosphere (a breather). And the muffler pressure nipple should be shut (a piece of fuel line bent over itself), or replaced by a bolt with an identical thread, with a fiber washer.

Running with exhaust pressure can cause problems, even though PropTop did not encounter any.

Good point JP...

(hey...did those Wen Mac parts work? )

Running with exhaust pressure can cause problems, even though PropTop did not encounter any.

Yep...they recommend not using muffler pressure...
When we (a couple friends and I ) first started using them, we tried it both ways...but it helps to read the directions first

That's what I was thinking of doing, backing the hex screw on the pump out a 1/4 turn and retune the engine. I understand the pump is really designed to regulate the mid range.

Well, I've installed the pump following the instructions, the only thing I did differently was to place the pressure tap a little lower than the center of the engine crankcase cover because my st2300 says CHINA right in the middle. Other than that, I think I did a decent job, It took me almost a day, however.

The following day I went to the field to see if the thing actually worked. At first, the engine would just run for a few seconds and then died. I tried different settings, basically touching the low speed needle and the socket set screw. The ¨magic¨ combination for things to run smoothly took me like 4 hours.

Today I took my extra and finally flew it with the perry pump installed and supposedly working ¨flawlessly¨.

Gentlemen, I have to report that the pump is just AMAZING. I even disabled my onboard glow driver cause I no longer need it. I am very happy with the results and my only problem now is that I don´t have an excuse not to fly 3D.

Hi!
I'm also considering a VP30 pump for 3D-flying. But will it work with a 180 4-stroke?? Instructions says its constructed for 2-stroke...

There's no back and forth crankcase pressure in a 4 stroke so it wouldnt be sending any pulses to make the diaphram work unfortunately.

Read what this web site has to say about Saito engines and VP30 pumps....

http://saito-engines.info/pumps.html

I haven't tried one myself - yet!

Hey nice catch Ken - never seen that one!

Cheers Yallaair!