i could have sworn i had already posted it but here it goes again...

i recently took off my trusty Saito 150 off my Lanier Edge 540 and installed on my new maxair Velox, i test ran it on the ground ealier today and i noticed it lacking power, and it had a rough idle, so with the engine off spun the prop manually and could feel an heard roughness


i checked with a place that specializes in repairing saitos and its gonna run me close to 100 bucks back to my doorstep.....

Does anyone know of a good site that goes through the process step by step in how to change bearings, perhaps even with illustrations?

p.s. i posted this in the 3D section....... i didnt realize there was a glow engine section

Here's where you posted it before
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6625465/tm.htm

I just changed the bearings in a saito .50 and the hardest thing I found was getting the drive washer to come off,I used a lot of heat and hit it with a hammer hard enough that I was worried about bending the crank( used a 7mmx1 nut to protect the threads),I used a battery terminal puller to no avail until the heat got right.

I heated it with a propane torch. the rear bearing almost fell out when the heat was right,just bang the back of the case against a wooden table/workbench.

I used a hardwood dowel to drive the front bearing out after heating the case.

the crank then went to the wire brush as it was as rusty as the bearings.

after heating the case in a toster oven the front bearing went in easy,the rear was a little harder to get in but an 18mm socket fits against the race perfectly(heat and drive in)

I got it all back together,adjusted the valves and she runs like a top on the bench.

now trying to get the plane ready that it came off of

To pull the front hub takes something much more serious than a terminal puller.

You need something to grip the drive flange groove. The rear of the hub is soft aluminum and very tender. For gripping the hub a bearing separator is ideal. Then you need to grip the bearing separator with a gear puller You can get these at the auto parts store.

thnaks for all the help guys...... ive been in the rc hobby for almost 15 years and i dontr have the nuts to do it, neither does my brother and he more mechanically inclined...lol


thanks again

When it comes time to install the new rear bearing, I have found it easier to chill the crank in the freezer (put it in a ziplock bag, well oiled ) and warm the R. bearing by setting it on an aluminum pie pan on the burner for a minute or so (on lowest heat possable )...the bearing will slip right onto the crank. You don't need to get the bearing hot...you should be able to pick it up bare handed.

The assembled crank/R. bearing goes back into the baggie, and back into the freezer for 15 minutes or so...then you warm up the case, and the chilled crank/bearing will fall right in.

Doing it this way, there's virtually no chance of the rear bearing going in cockeyed or possably being damaged and while the case is still warm, you can slip the front bearing on the cool crank/warm case and push it into place with the prop driver/nut...then finish setting it into place with a deep socket.

Thats a very proper way of doing the procedure - Its flawless. Works for me everytime for disassembly & reassembly.
Just one important thing, dont over-heat any metal and than suddenly chill it by any means - especially aluminum.