That's what it says (in BOLD with an !) on my bottle of 30% Morgan Fuel Cool Power glow fuel. Is there an interaction issue with AR oils or what? It says, "Morgan Fuel contains a Rust Inhibitor and an Anti-oxidant for resting engines." Is true for all Morgan Fuels?

don't know, but i don't use the typical marvel junk..................i use this,

http://www.pspec.com/details.asp?ProdID=40&category=7

not going to trust 2-700.00 dollar engines to some claim on a fuel mfg.

I am going to start using automatic transmission fluid as I just changed both rear bearings in my evolution and my super tigre,the bearings were not worn out just rusty.

I had thought that by using castor I was safe but it turned out to be BS.

from now on its run em empty and an eyedroper full of atf down the carb,then spin it over with the starter

these motors were just bought this year!

Rustiest used engine I ever bought was run a couple times and then submerged into a can of motor oil. It must have sealed all the acids inside the engine? I don't seem to have any trouble when I flush the crankcases with ATF Dexron. I have a case of the stuff setting around. My new automobiles use synthetics now and I don't have another use for it.

Perhaps they bought stock in bearing manufacturing companies?

In the past, for me, Cool Power was an invitation for rust?

ATF works fine never an issue, used to use atf/marvel mystery oil 50/50 now just ATF. my diesels do not get anything the kero solves that one never had
ONE engine with a rust problem 2 or 4 strk martin

The warning should say"do not use Morgan fuels"! I moved away from them long ago as I do not trust their oil.

.....I would never use Cruel Power in any of my engines, for any reason. [:@]
I rather like my expensive little aero-model engines, and I treat them with the greatest care.

I've never had a rusty bearing in almost 40 years, and I used to live in the Harbor of
Los Angeles, where the salt air would ruin all metals exposed to the atmosphere. I think
my success was primarily due to using castor oil, and plugging off the exhaust to prevent
oil from dripping out all over the place in the home. I have never used ARO.

Think about this....the methanol in the fuel is hygroscopic. It draws the moisture from the air.
The moisture (water) is what causes the rust, this is not a secret. If you run the excess fuel
out of the engine with the fuel line disconnected, you will eliminate most of the problem right
there. No methanol....no drawing in the moisture.

If you close the carb you will seal off the front of the engine, and plugging the outlet
of the exhaust with a wad of paper towel seals the engine against air and moisture getting
into the engine.

No moisture....no rust. The third part of the equation is the castor that helps prevent rust.
I believe if you employ these three things, rusty bearing will be a thing of the past.

FBD.

"Different strokes for different folks."

"Variety is the spice of life."

My fuel has always had some castor oil in it. I have used a MMO+ATF brew since the 70's and never had a rusted bearing in engines that I have bought new. The only engines I have had to replace bearings in are the ones I bought used.

I dunno why they printed it in BOLD with an exclamation mark at the end like it is some kind of "Caution" or something... I don't see any place on their web page to ask a question. Interesting story there about an engine that was underwater for 10 years tho.
http://www.morganfuel.com/miraclefuel.htm

I think I will continue to use ARO until I get an answer to this question.

Well; IMO it depends on how often you run your engines.

Ive been using CoolPower for a very long time now, and I yet to see a negative effect on any of my engines - 2 or 4 stroke. I never use ATF as well but I run all my engines almost every weekend for several times.
When ever I open up the back cover for conrod bushing & crank bearing inspection, Its always as shiny as a mirror, with no signs of wear & tear.

I use ATF only when I put an engine to sleep for more than 3 months. Then I fill the crank case with ATF and seal the whole engine off completely with a stretch film.

Like "liquid_TR" stated only when the engine is to be stored for several months do I use after run oil. Throughout the flying season (in spite of breaks) I use nothing what-so-ever.

I happen to like Wildcat 30/18 all synthetic------so far no sign of rust in any of the engines so treated.
Wildcat states that they have an anti corrosion ingredient ------based upon my experience, I believe them and feel it is quite effective.

No rust is no rust!

If they were not worn, not loose, and not making noise then there was no need to replace them. The shields on bearings will rust long before the bearings. They are also hot enough to bake the castor oil to a red brown stain which is often mistaken for rust.

Whatever you use , use lots of it and circulate it with a starter. Thinning your after run oil with camp fuel makes it flush better and is less messy. The only time I need a starter is when Im flushing the engine at the end of the day.

The word "Flush" is a key point in the ARO usage subject.

I was at a Hobby shop (un-named) a few days ago and the chap behind the counter was selling a nitro car high nitro car fuel
and some ARO told the young buyer to just pull the glow plug put a few drops down the hole and put the plug back in after running
is this stuff getting to the bearings by osmosis?? they must do great selling replacement engines martin

What answer would you like?

I don't think you can go wrong with the continued use of after run oil.

I would'nt buy the statement on the fuel jug, or risk damaging a engine over it.

You could always call morgans and ask if they will replace a engine that rusted while using this fuel. Might be interseting to see what the responce would be.

The implication of the BOLD print used with the exclamation point in the "DO NOT USE..." line on the bottle is more like a "caution" or WARNING" than an advisory. I would have thought that if the statement was advisory in nature it would say something like "After run oils are not needed when using this fuel." No BOLD and no "!" needed. Wouldn't you think so?

It may not be the Castor but the remains of your fuel. Alcohol, especially the stuff we use has a great affinity for water -ergo rust. It is a big deal to run your engine after you quit flying to remove any remnants of fuel in the core of the engine. Remember, Castor oil dissolves in alcohol, so if the alcohol is not removed, the Castor can not/will not do its job. I do recommend after run oils especially for two cycle engines that have lots of internal passages in them. Four strokes do no have lots of internal passages in them and it is harder to get the after run oil into them.

But running all engines dry is a must.

Cheers,

Chip

< While I agree with running the fuel dry to remove as much alcohol as possible, it is not gone. Also castor oil seems to work pretty well in the engine when mixed with fuel, I don't see why it would quit working after the engine is shut down. In fact by the time I tear an engine apart the alcohol has evaporated, I have yet to find water in the crankcase, though I'm sure it happens.

Guys...got a question here...
Have you ever removed the rear cover of an engine (espacially a 4 stroke ) that has sat for a while without flushing, and smelled sort of a nostril burning acrid (kind of like RTV silicone?) smell? I mean it's the nastiest smell I've ever encountered in dealing with model engines.

What is that?
Would that be nitric acid smell that I've heard about, as the combustion by-product of nitro...or maybe formaldahyde(sp?)

I was given a collection of engines and none ever had ARO used...
Some were fine inside, and some had rust...but especially the 4 strokes with that horrible smell![:'(]

Okay, I will just say that over the years I have used Morgans Omega 98% of the time and I have had problems with rust unless I flood the engine with afterrun oil when I put up for the day. This has been especially critical with my fourstroke engines, they really get nasty inside.
I really have'nt been using cool power because a prefer a fuel with a dose of castor in it. Those who do use cool power suggest that the lack of castor leads to even less rust protection between outings.

It's up to you to decide but, I would disregard that suggestion that, "oils are not needed with this fuel" just from my past experience with morgan fuel.

Mike

IMO the best way to keep away from corrosion is to run the engines. Its that simple. Ive never used castor in any of my engines since my old days of little 2 stroke rc car racing. (you DO need castor in a 30000+rpm enviroment)

Ive always used Coolpower (or synth oils), and never put ATF dexronII in except if Im not going to be able to run the engine for more than 3 months. Why dont I get rust problems? I dont think its luck. and I know it not the weather.. (always high humidity)

I agree that if engines are run frequently they are unlikely to corrode. However for many of us unforseen events can preclude running an engine for some time. Additionaly if one has a large enough number of engines it is difficult to run all of them on a regular basis.

As it takes only a few cents and a few seconds to give an engine a dose of ATF I see no reason not to do so.

jess