michaelchow

Just unique Chinese brand for glow engine is JBA, SY do OEM, and none

michaelchow

JBA56 F sereis still exist, anyone want to try?

Turk1

Here is my new Phoenix Diabolo,flying with JBA 56 F.(Still on break in phase,less than 1 hour).Fuel no nitro,16% full castor,industrial methanol self mix.Prop: MAS 12-6 Weight 3110 gr.
This is maiden flight:http://vimeo.com/29471845

This is second day:[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_VUfZGeUGw[/youtube] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_VUfZGeUGw

Turk1

Above plane has almost unlimited vertical.Still having baffle in muffler and 2 shims on head.After several hours run,one shim and baffle will be removed so engine will have more power.

michaelchow

can use 25% fuel, nitro will let it more power

Turk1

Sure but as you know,nitro is very expensive so I dont need any unless involving a race..JBA 56 F is working great without nitro..

michaelchow

yes, always test without nitro in factory, and the nitro will hurt the engine

Firepower R/C

My Feedback: (10)

I wish I could find a JBA 1.20... anyone got an idea? JBA seems to be hard to find. Show me the motors!!!

HAIDAR

I HAVE ORDRED THESE ENGINES RECENTLY FROM HIMODEL
PRICES ARE GOOD (IF YOU SURF THE WEB YOU CAN FIND SOME
OTHER SHOP LIKE www.kangkeusa.com  AND
http://www.austars-model.com/display...s=JBA%20Engine



  http://www.himodel.com/engines/JBA_F...ine_56ABC.html

  http://www.himodel.com/engines/JBA_N...gine_91AR.html

  http://www.himodel.com/engines/JBA_N...ine_120AR.html

  http://www.himodel.com/engines/JBA_N...ine_140AR.html






 
  

ululi1970

Sorry to resurrect an old post, but I am intrigued by these engines. For some reason, I have a sweet tooth for less known brands, and I am currently looking for an engine
to power a Sig Something Extra that I am building. I have noticed that the new F series now has two versions of the 56 engine. An ABC and a ringed one.
On the himodel website they are priced the same. Was wondering which one is best in the long run... So far I have owned mostly ABC engines, the exception being a
Magnum 4-stroke.
Any suggestion is appreciated
Thank you

fiery

My Feedback: (2)

The ringed version should last longer, and tolerate poor settings better.

The ABC version will run a little faster at top end.

the pope

Wait for Turk to chime in . He is the resident expert on these engines and has had a lot of luck with them . Not sure if there made anymore so may have to keep em out of the dirt as I dont know what the spare situation is like . Cheers the pope

Turk1

Yep,jumped in immediately.Also yes Im the one most loving those engines.
I strongly recommend JBA 56FABC.Dont worry,they will handle all kind of torture.No need to use less powered ringed one.Though after Michael leave,JBA engines seems having some less machining quality, still works great.
But pls. be aware of that, if you will have bigger size JBA engines(.91 and more) those will be needed some little carb. modification.The famous Chinese carb problem is present there.LSN will most likely be needed to cut about 0.5 mm from tip.But F type carbs are great.Again, be aware that you should not to play with the screw which seems same as OS 55 carb LSN.F type carbs has LSN in the center of the throttle yoke as classic.Other screw is fixed by factory .

Turk1

Hi ANZAC, mostly other than luck,I believe I can read the engine what is needed and what is the problem.Those Chinese glow engines are great but carbs. are the main problem.You should remember there was a loong thread about how GMS engine carb. problem can be fixed.They were trying to align the fuel inlet orifices.But real problem was wrong profile of LSN.I can not insist all Chinese engine problem is this but mostly is this.You should remember I was repeatedly trying to explain this on NGH GT9 thread but seems nobody could understand.Chinese carbs.' LSN sometimes cant match the barrel travel in order to metering fuel flow accordingly. If user adjusts good iddling and good low speeds,engine cant suck enough fuel at WOT,because LSN still restrict the spray bar (even so little).This symptom shows itself as dying engine during take off mostly or dying engine after a little run because of change at tank level.Only solution is to change LSN profile to achieve enough restriction to have a good idling without drowning and to have a good WOT with allowing full fuel flow controlled by HSN only.(LSN should be out of scene at WOT or at least only play as an additional venturi role).If user adjusts to have a good WOT (before LSN mod.) then engine will be drowned at low speeds and especially at idle eventually and if pilot keeps engine a little elongated low speeds during flight,then engine will stop during acceleration attempt because excessive fuel in cranckcase will extinguish the glow plug immediately.
I hope I could explain a little.So the main problem with such engines is most probably is the carb.and only problem with carb. is LSN profile.Also I strongly recommend to expand the o rings of the carb to have a better carb.,to be safe side.
As an example,I bought a brand new JBA 91 R glow engine for my Bf109 plane.I was on alert on such a problem would occur probably.So I mounted it on bench firstly and having a full test after a little break in run.As expected engine was dying eventually on idling when I adjust it good on WOT.I knew the solution.Sanded about 0.5-1.0 mm from the tip of LSN and problem has gone.(Pls. note that LSN has a taper.Otherwise to cut at tip would be nothing to fix).Now engine is pulling my Cermark Bf 109 with authority.
Note: Those remarks are depending on my experiences with no nitro fuel.Some nitromethane mix. may change the results.I dont know.

ululi1970

Thank you Turk. You remarks on the shape of LSN are right on the mark, and not limited to mainland Chinese carbs. A while ago I had to adjust the taper at the tip of the LSN of a Thunder Tiger heli engine (Taiwanese). After the simple mod, the transition was much better.
Looking at the pictures of the F engine on the Himodel site, I can see what looks like a remote HSN, which I assume will be mounted on the backplate, then there is what looks like a second HSN, on the carb body, and then presumably the LSN which is centered on the
throttle arm. Am I correct? You're saying that the second HSN is set at the factory and should not be touched. My experience with Chinese carbs is that "set at the factory" really means "somebody remembered to screw in the needle". I had engines that would flood with the
throttle at 1/4 after joust a couple of flips on the prop because the LSN "set at the factory" was way off...

Turk1

Hi,pls.be aware of that 2. remote HSN is only a spare accessory and for me keep away to use.Ftype carb has HSN on it and works great.
pls. dont misunderstand there will be one HSN,on the carb and there is one LSN on the center of the Thr. arm.You will see another embedded screw very looking alike an OS 55 LSN just near the HSN.That screw is fixed and must not be played.Pls. check the pic attached.You will see the fake screw near HSN.Repeat,dont need remote HSN, dont play with that fake LSN seen on pic.

ululi1970

I see. If you look at the pictures on the himodel site [link=http://www.himodel.com/engines/JBA_F_Series_Nitro_Airplane_Engine_56ABC.html]HiModel[/link]
they seem to have a remote needle. Based on what you're saying, I think that now the user has the option of using a remote HSN, in which case I'd assume you open completely the HSN
on the carb, or just leave the remote out and use the one on the carb. I have learned the hard way that props defend their airspace fiercely, so I like the idea of a remote needle...

Turk1

Hi, yes you are correct but I dont recommend you to use remote HSN.Because most probably you will have adjustment problems and will bash engine.But already no need for remote needle because of inclined HSN gives way to handle freely from prop..At least please try to know engine before remote and then put it in use.
Here when people -using remote needle ASP 52- asking help,my first reaction is to make them put HSN on carb. removing from remote.I saw many cases not to keep adjustment due to remote HSN.Also I remember how people cheered on forums when they first hear OS made 55 AX without remote needle.

ululi1970

Thank you. I have ordered the engine from himodel. Should be here by end of next week. IS the manual clear regarding the break-in process?

Turk1

Yes, sure but I dont think you need a serious break in procedure.Run it   a little rich for one tank then go on by flying with cooling periods during fly.
This engine loves 11-6 prop.for general.Dont forget to make nose up and low throttle run tests before take off s.Last note,install muffler before installing carb because carb will block one muffler screw to mount otherwise.

Ernie Misner

How much are you guys paying for shipping charges to the USA?

ululi1970

The cheapest options was $18 for the engine alone, though without tracking. However, I ended up getting a bunch of other stuff, including 4 rolls of covering material, at $4.15 a piece I figured it was worth trying, wheels, mini servos for a different project and what not. Total shipping weight was ~ 3 lbs and the cheapest option was Fedex Shipping at $29.
Still very competitive in the end. The order was marked as shipped within 24 hours. Will see...

ululi1970

The Fedex truck delivered the goodies today. 6 days from when the order was placed, not bad. In fact, they tried yesterday but I was out, and the shipper requested signature. Anyway, I took a few pictures of the engine. Several key engine dimensions are equal (to within .5 mm) to the OS 55AX.
The carb looks exactly like the OS (or the one on my TT .46 pro) with an angled back needle. The box also had the remote needle, but I am not going to use it. The main difference with the 55AX seems to be the head. The JBA has 6 bolts, the OS only four, and of course the muffler, which is
really big. BTW, what is the expert opinion on the baffle in the muffler. Keep it or leave it? And does it become much noisier without?

Turk1

Hehehe,as a JBA expert,I always remove the baffle and happy without it.(More power).But pls be aware ,when you touch the nuts of muffler once,they always tend to loose and causing to turn of outlet stinger.Even the risk to lose the aft part of it on air.So recommend to take precautions.Dont overtighten then main rod may be broken on air again.

Ernie Misner

You are best to remove the baffle when the muffler is new and not oily. Then use red high-temp silicone in all the joints when you put it back together. Clean the threads where the small nut goes with acetone or alcohol and then put a drop of thin CA on them before tightening the small nut. You should be good to go for a lifetime or two.