Aluminum Overcast

They are....World Models and CMP both have them...By end of this year I hope to have my CMP with ASP 400 flying and detailed over the winter now that my P40 is drawing to a close. Really need more zeros in the 60 size though!

vasek

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WOW! that P-40 is a work of art [X(]

what is it? >drooling

Aluminum Overcast

Thanks, The model started out as the 60 size Top Flight P40 ARF. It's now much modified. There is a thread on it here on RC Universe:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_98...17/key_/tm.htm

I still need to make the waterslide decals and weather it a bit for final completion.

And some vids on my channel on youtube along with some building vid of the functional gill flaps etc. This is a flyer not a hangar queen. We fly these 60 size warbirds in formation every week and have been doing so for the past 15 years or so. Great fun and a great bunch of people to boot.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Uk0J...1&feature=plcp


I will make a follow up vid when complete

Carosel43

P40 looks ace, really dose. i look forward to a flying video!

Kmot, there are other 80'' span zero's but none are available in the uk any more. also esm are better quality than cmpro in my experience

Aluminum Overcast

The P40 has been flying all last season (Prob 20 or 30 flights) and some this season (engine issues lately but I think it's resolved now)...it's up on my youtube channel.


Agreed, the CMP is a correct shape but will need work to be really right...Split flaps, gear angles etc. the P40, and a smaller world models zero I bashed last year (here are a few pix of that one) is in prep for all that plus the radial.

Kmot

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You are REALLY good at weathering, A.O.!

Carosel43

Agreed!

In other news my pacer (the big yellow thing with my 400 on the nose) is in the shop for a total strip down and recover. Im not going to do anything fancy, but i hope it will turn out nice. I may post a few updates as i go

Kmot

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Do it! Post updates, that is.

Carosel43

rgr that, i will grab piccies later, i am currently undressing the airfame as the covering was old and nasty. itsgoing well buti do keep burning my fingers with the heat gun though

Carosel43

ok a few pics from the building shed.





The blue and white wing is another project and former home of the 400. Its now being converted to test my laser engines. The pacer needs some love and filler, im sure it will look good as new before long!

Kmot

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I have stripped a few airframes, and yeah it is a tedious job and you end up with sticky, messy wood. But it's gotta be done if you want new covering!

Carosel43

Yea its pretty much a pain in the butt. Lucky for me the guy used half decent covering and so it has come away cleanly and not left the colour layer behind in a sticky mess. Also the glue for the covering (i think it was profilm) seems to have saturated the wood (handy for when i recover) but it seems to dry hard and can actually be sanded smooth. I was very pleased to discover this as i am sure you can imagine. As well as repairing damage and filling holes i plan to cut the ailerons in half and use the inboard section as a flap to help slow the beasty down on landing. I am also looking at a new undercarriage as the current one is not really man enough for the job and i think has lost its shape over time. Anyway, alot to do! i will post photoswhen i get anything interesting done

vasek

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Guys, the 18x10 3 blade prop looks smallish on that big cowl[] can the FS400 handle a 20x10 3 blade? I'm not looking for optimum performance but don't want to strain the engine either. Of course I will fly on a 8x10 2 blade till it's well run in before switching to 3 blade. Any thoughts ?

Carosel43

I use 20x10 2 blade and get good performance. My suggestion is prop the engine for about 7000-7200 rpm static for best overall performance

wherewaldo

I am using a 20*10 three blade biela prop on mine...and it was spinning it at high throttle  6800 rpm ....as the engine breaks in it should do a bit better...plenty of power  for this prop...I am using it only because I need the clearance on my T28...a 22*10 two blade would not cleat the ground on this plane

Carosel43

6800 on a 20x10 3 blade is very good, mine gives about 6800 on the 2 blade 20x10. It used to give about 7200 but its lost the plot a little as i mentioned in a previous post. As the engine is off the model while i work on its makeover im going to redo all of the valve clearances as they really are a mile wide in some places. I have noticed that this engine looses its clearances very easily and they need to be reset almost every time you turn the prop. I hope they will settle after a little while.

vasek

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Good info, I'm exchanging the 18x10 3 blade for an 20x10 3 blade then. I should look better on the Corsair.

Cheers, V.

Carosel43

Small rebuild update. The tail feathers were ina right state after the highes were removed so i had to add some new bits of wood inset into the damaged areas. I also added a ply base plate where the horns go as the balsa was all squashed and not in a happy state. I then did the same to the stab and fitted the whole lot together with new hinges and tack glued everything. The holes were then drilled for the hinge pins (im going to use servo screws to make like easy) and the whole lot given a sanding. i also repaired/filled/sanded the fwd fuz as well as fitting one exhaust to my ESM P39 (the exhuast is a nightmare) I dont have a photo just yet, i will grab one when i have something more exciting to show you!

jaav

Ok guys, Ive had to strip my engine..Will only run on 3 cyl, 2 had siezed valves a loose inlet mout bolt and 1 had a loose cyl head with head bolts missing!!??
Its not too bad for corrosion inside..But will need new mains...and cam brngs....Ther Q how do the cam brngs come out?? Is the master rod brng avalible?

I had a push rod tube leak oil for a while now I thought that there were O rings on the gear case side. has any one else had a tube leak there?

This engine is now going to spark ignition.

Kmot

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jaav: Out of curiosity, how much running time do you estimate is on your engine?

Carosel43

my pushrod tubes leak and wiggle. they are kinda hopeless! as for your problems, overheating and lack of lubrication would seem to be the most likely reason for your problems. I know on laser engines is you over heat them badly the head bolts come loose. Was it the exhuast valve that got stuck?

jaav

Its done about 1.5 hours on the bench and about 1/2 hour flying time..

The cyl that came loose Im sure is the one I removed before to get the EX ring off. It has I and E valves siezed lower cyl due to gumming...Cyl bores are perfect.. There was ATF oil in the engine but still had a lot of gum..This engine hasnt been started since xmas.

vasek

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after 2h it should be in it's prime, not broken [] let's hope the source of trouble was a freak occurrence.

Carosel43

I am assuming the stuck valves have not impacted the piston? and regarding gum i am suprised by that. using my 15% synth and 2% castor fuel i never use after run in any engines and i dont have issues with rust or with gum. all i do if an engine is not going to be used for a long time is run it on the bench, give it a good 30 secs at full power to warm it up and dry it out (sometimes the engines get a blast with a water jet first to clean them) before nipping the fuel line, putting in plastic bag, in a box, under the bed. they live there until needed again! in any case, i dug out my laser 80 after 5 years and it was free to turn and started right up.

If you are going to fill it with oil then i would use either sae30 (the stuff you put in the lawnmower) or two stroke oil like you put in your chainsaw. in any case, have you a photo of the poorly valves/gunk?

Reverend

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Hello again from Austria,

sorry for the long delay in my answer but I have had some fairly major issues in my house building and the hobby had to be confined to the stuff I need to do for my journalism. So no Radial work

BUT, I have finally found the time to build a new test stand to try out my radials (thereā€™s a Saito 450 lying here too that I grabbed dirt cheap from ebay US considering the Euro/USD conversion)

Last weekend I put the ASP on the stand and was actually quite disappointed at the figures. The 20x8 Menz Wood will barely give me 6800 rpm. I had checked clearance, checked the valves themselves as well, checked the fuel lines... I switched the Prop to a 20x8 APC Prop which is quite heavy and was surprised at the rpm gain to 7400. Still too little for a 20x8 but @7400 there was a constant +/- 200rpm surge. I then realized, that by jiggling the carb horizontally I can control this surge a bit AND found out that my low speed needle can be turned right across the carb inlet to the other side [&:]. Idle at 1500 rpm is satisfactory. A Glow5LP is managing the glowplugs.

To sum it up, the stock carb is rubbish and falls apart when you look at it angrily [:@]. I am quite determined to change it to an O.S. carb and I read earlier on that someone is trying to substitute it with the carb from the OS FT-300. I think that is the wrong way to go because the FT-300 Carb serves two 25cc cylinders whereas the Radial consists of five 12,8cc cylinders. The way to go would be to use the carb from an O.S. FS-70 or FS-80. I have a FS-70 here in a small stunt plane and I am going to try to do the conversion. The intake throat is 0,42ā€¯ (10,8mm) and that should actually fit.

After reading the problems a lot of people are having with the fs-400 (e.g. SJN, some guys in the German Warbirdforum) I am quite reluctant in putting it on the front of my composite SiSt FW-190ā€¦ I will go with the Saito there and find a nice 18-20lb golden age racer for the ASP.
(NOT the Black Horse Gilmore, enough of those around already )

Will keep you posted on the carb front.

Rev