Broken Wings

My Feedback: (20)

I don't get "clipped" very often buying used engines on *Bay but I paid all the money for a HB PDP Blitz engine in listed as "Excellent" condition. The engine arrived and there were plier marks on the drive washer and the thin sheet metal "HB" decal that is attached to the side of the engine had been tampered with/peeled back and part (1/3rd) of it was missing. Had I known I probably wouldn't have used the "Buy It Now" button and just bid on the engine.

I've listed several engines myself and I always try and list any defect that I find. Buggered up screw heads, enlarged mounting holes, raised metal, etc...

The Model engine Collectors Assn. has this link for the classification of model engines.

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ENGINE CONDITION CLASSIFICATIONS

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NIB (New in Box) Unused and in the original factory supplied carton, complete with all accessories as supplied by factory which may include coil, condenser, lead wire, wrench, parts lists, instructions, parts list and matching serial number on box, if applicable.

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N (New) Unused and complete with all parts as originally sold by the factory. "No screw marks mounting lugs, nicks, scratches, bent fins, messed up screw heads, etc." New should be new.

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LN (Like New) Run a few times, slight marks on lugs, otherwise as new. "No nicks, scratches, bent/broken fins, messed up screw heads, etc."

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EXC (Excellent) Run several times, slight marks on mounting lugs, slight discoloration of cylinder, cylinder head or other parts due to heat. Very slight scratches on engine. Good compression, light wear on bearing surfaces. "No scratches, bent/broken fins, messed up screw heads, etc."

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VG (Very Good) As excellent, but used more eith very good compression, slightly enlarged mounting lug holes, one or two deep scratches or moderately discolored spots, small chipped or slightly bent fins, bearing surfaces discernibly worn, screw heads possible show marks.

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G (Good) As very good, but compression and bearing surface wear sufficient to warrant this rating. This rating considered the minimum internal condition necessary for a use as a runner type engine.

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F (Fair) Compression sufficient to run, but with reduced power output. Bearing surfaces well worn, one or more missing or badly chipped, bent, scratched or repaired parts. One or more open mounting lugs. Unacceptable as a display engine, but possibly capable of a G or VG rating if overhauled and/or replacement parts added.

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P (Poor or Parts) A parts engine. Worn out, poor compression, broken and missing parts, surfaces badly scarred. Will not run in present condition. Not suitable for use or display.

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C (Cosmetic) Engine should not be run due to weakened or deteriorated parts but cosmetically able to be classified at a higher rating.

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ABBREVIATIONS

B.B. Ball Bearing M.pt. Moving Point A/C Aircraft
Brg. Bearing Msg. Missing Compr. Compression
C’sft. Crankshaft NV Needle Valve EXC Excellent
Cyl. Cylinder NVA Needle Valve Assembly FR Front Rotary
Cvr. Cover Hd. Head G Good
DW Drive Washer Pis. Piston LN Like New
Exh. Exhaust Pin Wrist Pin NIB New in Box
F.pt. Fixed Point Spr. Spring RI Rear Intake
Frt. Front Scr. Screw RR Rear Rotary
GT Gas Tank Tmr. Timer SP Side Port
Hsg. Housing TA Timer Arm
Int. Intake X Incorrect


EDITOR’S COMMENT

One of the complaints that is most likely to occur in MECA transactions is overgrading of engines. The Classification Guidelines should be adhered to rigidly. In fact it is better to drop down one classification just to be sure. Broken, missing and REPRO parts MUST BE NOTED.

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I emailed the seller and to his credit was offered a full refund. I'm going to keep the engine as I need it for a model but using this Engine Condition Classification would have helped.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

John,

All engines should be sold with this classification system.

I once got an engine from EEE bay "NIB". It had been run, appearently drowned (water pumped out the vent when turned over), reassembled with silicone instead of gaskets. A complete piece of crap, got my money back from the kid that tried to pass it off. I think his mom tore him a new one.

Another from RCU, good running condition the ad said. It wreaked of nitric acid! Totally rusted inside, broken fins, aluminum casting weak, porous and almost crumbling from acid, piston and cylinder scored, con rod, wristpin and crankpin bent. Another total piece of crap, didn't get my money back and the user changed his user name. Hi Steve. The only good parts were the intake tube, carb and valve cover.

Always ask for photos from all angles, ask if there is anything wrong even if it is NIB unless the seller states in the ad there is absolutely nothing wrong with the engine. It could have gone thru the great flood but it's "NIB", according to some.

Bone

Oh, I agree with the above posts.

But another problem is that the people that should be reading this are the ones that never will. My experience is that quite a few of the sellers are NOT modellers - they may be sons or daughters selling up their late dad's estate - but they are certainly not genuine modellers.

To them, the engine(s) looks great, it's shiny, turns over ok etc. They rely on what looks good to them. It's a bit like when people say "my accountant is the best" or "my auto mechanic is an ace" etc. In their own eyes, their judgement is 100% and therefore everyone else should be in agreement with what they say or see.

The engines listed as in "excellent condition" - the ones with the rusty head bolts & badly corroded crankcases - are a great example.

And then there are the sharks that are simply there to rip us off [>:]

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Yep, MECA folks are pretty much 100% trustworthy; or the word gets around fast.

We almost never know who we are buying engines from on the 'bay. It's always a gamble to some extent.

One thing I always do is download the photos and clear them up in Photoshop. You can really see a lot more that way.

Here's a photo directly from *bay and then after I fiddled with it in Photoshop. At least I have a better idea what is being sold:

David