YS110 tuning
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YS110 tuning
Anyone know approx. how many turns out the high speed needle is for the older ys110? Obviously not an exact number but a ballpark to get started? Never ran this one before but it has been broken in by someone else. The needles are all the way in right now.
Kevin
Kevin
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RE: YS110 tuning
Mr. Mugen,
I would start with 2 to 2 1/4 turns out on the main HS Needle valve, and start tunning from that point turning clockwise until reaching desired RPMs.
I have found this link very useful and I highly recommend it to everyone.
http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/factsheets/ys_engines.php
Good luck!!!
I would start with 2 to 2 1/4 turns out on the main HS Needle valve, and start tunning from that point turning clockwise until reaching desired RPMs.
I have found this link very useful and I highly recommend it to everyone.
http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/factsheets/ys_engines.php
Good luck!!!
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RE: YS110 tuning
under average normal weather conditions I find the HSN to be less than 1.5 turns out on 110FZ. I would start with 2 turns out with the HSN then tune and regulator screw quarter turn in from flush position for midrange.
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RE: YS110 tuning
Thanks for the insight guy's! I fired it up a few minutes ago and ran it for a tank while tuning it. It is a power house! It transitions so smoothly I thought something was wrong........just the way a good motor runs I guess. I went from a saito 100 to this in my edge 540 and there is a big difference in transition. My pal and I are planning on flying tonight, he has the identical plane with the saito 100. We will get a side by side comparison tonight.
Thanks again,
Kevin
Thanks again,
Kevin
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RE: YS110 tuning
Another quick question for you guy's. I am using wildcat 15% fuel with 18% oil. Is this a god choice for this motor? I use it in all my others with good luck. Today it seemed like it wasn't getting to full top end. Maybe a weather thing due to the cold but just curious if the fuel might be the issue.
Kevin
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RE: YS110 tuning
If I am not mistaken, YS specifies a MINIMUM of 20% oil, all synthetic, for all their engines. So, based on that, your fuel is *not* correct, and is underlubricating the engine.
- Tim
- Tim
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RE: YS110 tuning
Non-DZ models of YS engines could be run with small amount of castor oil,
but there is no need for it as all internal parts are lubricated with fresh charge of fuel, unlike an OS, Saito or clones.
DZ models of YS engines are NOT recommended to be run with any castor in the mix.
Regulator silicon diaphram is very sensitive and may get stuck or clogged if the engine sits for a long time with castor left in it.
Its a known fact that YS engines respond to 20/20 fuels very well. But they can be run with 15% nitro as well, just not as impressive as 20/20.
18% oil is not "underlubricating" the engine, but 20% oil is better than 18%..
but there is no need for it as all internal parts are lubricated with fresh charge of fuel, unlike an OS, Saito or clones.
DZ models of YS engines are NOT recommended to be run with any castor in the mix.
Regulator silicon diaphram is very sensitive and may get stuck or clogged if the engine sits for a long time with castor left in it.
Its a known fact that YS engines respond to 20/20 fuels very well. But they can be run with 15% nitro as well, just not as impressive as 20/20.
18% oil is not "underlubricating" the engine, but 20% oil is better than 18%..
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RE: YS110 tuning
castor is fine however you can absolutely not run and petroleum based lubricant in the engine. some people try using mystery marvel oil as an after run which is fine in every engine but YS. it will destroy the silicon seals. the castor thing is just not recommended because of its properties of build up and gumming the inside of an engine. over time that leads to problems with the engine.
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RE: YS110 tuning
I guess I have been flying YS Heli motors for too long . . . for those, the specification is 20 to 30 percent oil, no lower . . .
- Tim
- Tim
ORIGINAL: liquid_TR
Non-DZ models of YS engines could be run with small amount of castor oil,
but there is no need for it as all internal parts are lubricated with fresh charge of fuel, unlike an OS, Saito or clones.
DZ models of YS engines are NOT recommended to be run with any castor in the mix.
Regulator silicon diaphram is very sensitive and may get stuck or clogged if the engine sits for a long time with castor left in it.
Its a known fact that YS engines respond to 20/20 fuels very well. But they can be run with 15% nitro as well, just not as impressive as 20/20.
18% oil is not "underlubricating" the engine, but 20% oil is better than 18%..
Non-DZ models of YS engines could be run with small amount of castor oil,
but there is no need for it as all internal parts are lubricated with fresh charge of fuel, unlike an OS, Saito or clones.
DZ models of YS engines are NOT recommended to be run with any castor in the mix.
Regulator silicon diaphram is very sensitive and may get stuck or clogged if the engine sits for a long time with castor left in it.
Its a known fact that YS engines respond to 20/20 fuels very well. But they can be run with 15% nitro as well, just not as impressive as 20/20.
18% oil is not "underlubricating" the engine, but 20% oil is better than 18%..
18% oil is not "underlubricating" the engine, but 20% oil is better than 18%.
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RE: YS110 tuning
Dave, it says 20-24% synthetic oil only but if you use castor, no more than 2%.
This greatly has to do with the direct injection system that may get clogged or damaged from castor varnish i believe..
Also the exhaust valve, seat, and valve stem will get hard carbon coated.
This greatly has to do with the direct injection system that may get clogged or damaged from castor varnish i believe..
Also the exhaust valve, seat, and valve stem will get hard carbon coated.
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RE: YS110 tuning
Mr. Mugen,
"Cool Power Pro pattern 20/20" is a great choice for the YS 110FZ.
Cool Power 30/23 Heli Blend is also fantastic. (If one can afford it to buy all the time )
"Cool Power Pro pattern 20/20" is a great choice for the YS 110FZ.
Cool Power 30/23 Heli Blend is also fantastic. (If one can afford it to buy all the time )
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RE: YS110 tuning
ORIGINAL: liquid_TR
Mr. Mugen,
"Cool Power Pro pattern 20/20" is a great choice for the YS 110FZ.
Cool Power 30/23 Heli Blend is also fantastic. (If one can afford it to buy all the time )
Mr. Mugen,
"Cool Power Pro pattern 20/20" is a great choice for the YS 110FZ.
Cool Power 30/23 Heli Blend is also fantastic. (If one can afford it to buy all the time )
Well I just ordered a case of the 20/20 so once thats gone............. I will try the 30% soon. I have a quart of it here.
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RE: YS110 tuning
As a long time YS guru, I actually save a couple/few bucks a gallon by mixing one gallon of Wildcat 20/20 with one gallon of Wildcat 15/18 (PURE synthetic), which of course leaves me with 17.5% nitro and 19% pure synthetic oil. (accurately mixed, and consistent too, because you are using full gallons of accurately mixed fuel).
On a hot and humid day, you can get some much needed snap back, by dosing up to pure 20/20 without any re-tuning, but, by and large, you can't tell the difference in performace from straight 20/20, and it saves a few bucks a gallon. At 6 flights per gallon, it adds up money wise, but leaves you with plenty of oil (which YS crank cases like).
IMO, Castor has no place in a 4 stroke, it just gums up the valves, (and other things too). Modern synthetics have many times the lubrication, and corrosion prevention of castor. Castor is obsolete with 4 strokes IMO. I have found pure synthetic Wildcat leaves very little buildup on the heads and valves, and corrosion protection is the best I've ever found, and it shows every time I tear one down for maintenance.
No after run needed. Also, never run a YS dry. The alcohol absorbing moisture argument is moot. The alcohol and moisture will evaporate from the hot engine quickly, and only the oil will remain behind to protect the engine. I think those who run a YS dry, are foolish. It reaps havoc on the rotary valve, (a little bit at a time) every time you run it dry, and leaves no oil behind for corrosion protection (far less), which is a primary function of oil (coorsion protection). Burn it off dry every time you shut down the engine? Great idea?.....Negative. leave it sloppy and oily. The leftover nitro won't corrode it either if it's well oiled and the ingredients are quality and pure. If it's bone dry, then, yes it will.
Remember, manufacturers are playing to a world wide crowd. Many countries can't get nitro at all, or good synthetics, or whatever, so they have to leave the "castor oil" door cracked open, as well as nitro percentages open, not to mention cover their behinds with oil percentages, since qualitys vary widely. If they want to play to a world market, they have to cover all the bases. But if you are looking for the best performace.... Pure synthetic oils, with the purest ingredients will yield the longest life, and best performance, and the numbers can be skewed accordingly. IOW, you will never burn up a YS using Wildcat 15/18 pure synthetic fuel, no matter what the book "recommends", unless you run it stupid lean, and burn it off every time you shut it down. ....But in East Nevernever land, where they mix fuel with wooden cups out on the sandy desert farmland, you will need that oil...... Know what I'm sayin? ....
Bottom line YS's do like oil. And they like synthetic, not castor.
)
On a hot and humid day, you can get some much needed snap back, by dosing up to pure 20/20 without any re-tuning, but, by and large, you can't tell the difference in performace from straight 20/20, and it saves a few bucks a gallon. At 6 flights per gallon, it adds up money wise, but leaves you with plenty of oil (which YS crank cases like).
IMO, Castor has no place in a 4 stroke, it just gums up the valves, (and other things too). Modern synthetics have many times the lubrication, and corrosion prevention of castor. Castor is obsolete with 4 strokes IMO. I have found pure synthetic Wildcat leaves very little buildup on the heads and valves, and corrosion protection is the best I've ever found, and it shows every time I tear one down for maintenance.
No after run needed. Also, never run a YS dry. The alcohol absorbing moisture argument is moot. The alcohol and moisture will evaporate from the hot engine quickly, and only the oil will remain behind to protect the engine. I think those who run a YS dry, are foolish. It reaps havoc on the rotary valve, (a little bit at a time) every time you run it dry, and leaves no oil behind for corrosion protection (far less), which is a primary function of oil (coorsion protection). Burn it off dry every time you shut down the engine? Great idea?.....Negative. leave it sloppy and oily. The leftover nitro won't corrode it either if it's well oiled and the ingredients are quality and pure. If it's bone dry, then, yes it will.
Remember, manufacturers are playing to a world wide crowd. Many countries can't get nitro at all, or good synthetics, or whatever, so they have to leave the "castor oil" door cracked open, as well as nitro percentages open, not to mention cover their behinds with oil percentages, since qualitys vary widely. If they want to play to a world market, they have to cover all the bases. But if you are looking for the best performace.... Pure synthetic oils, with the purest ingredients will yield the longest life, and best performance, and the numbers can be skewed accordingly. IOW, you will never burn up a YS using Wildcat 15/18 pure synthetic fuel, no matter what the book "recommends", unless you run it stupid lean, and burn it off every time you shut it down. ....But in East Nevernever land, where they mix fuel with wooden cups out on the sandy desert farmland, you will need that oil...... Know what I'm sayin? ....
Bottom line YS's do like oil. And they like synthetic, not castor.
)
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RE: YS110 tuning
Well I ran about 2 quarts of the 20/20 today through the ys and it loved it. I got great run time and tons of power. Smoother transitions and idles for sure. Glad I asked!
Thanks,
Kevin
Thanks,
Kevin