PoormansACE

I just bought an os type 1 wankle, never run for a song! I intend to run the snot out of this engine, not just gauk at it sitting in the box. the instructions tell you everything except how (or if) to pressure the tank. There is a fitting in the bottom of the crankcase, like you would find on a 4 stroke, but none on the muffler. I am planning on useing a standard 2 line tank, (vent & clunk) and connecting the vent line to this fitting. Can anyone who has ACTUALLY RUN one of these tell me if im on the right path?

Radial power

Well, I have one that I've only bench run (so far). I didn't use any pressure line, just pure carburetor draw and it seemed to work fine (well, the engine was a little bit sensitive to the fuel level in the 50 oz tank of my test stand, but I don't think anyone would use such a huge fuel tank in an airplane with this engine ). I left the nipple on the case open to the atmosphere.

A couple more pieces of advice: if you want your engine lo last, make sure to have castor oil in the fuel. Do not run on pure synthetic oil, and in any case don't lower the totale oil content below 20%. Also don't get crazy on the nitromethane level: the engine runs very hot, and too much nitro is not helpful in this regard (I mix my own fuel, and my wankel gets a special blend of 5% nitro, 10% synthetic oil, 15% castor oil and 70% methanol). For this same reason, make sure the engine has lots of cooling air available (no tight cowls and/or oversized spinners).
Finally, the engine likes small props. Don't go beyond 10x5 and you should be fine.

If you are interested, [link=http://it.youtube.com/watch?v=3LhmBdra1NE]here[/link] is a video of my engine on the stand.

Almost forgot: when you install the muffler, make sure both screws are on tight. I had the front one come loose during the same test run in the video (it was after I finished recording the video) and fall right on the spinning propeller, clipping off one of its tips and being thrown sideways at about warp 3. The screw-bullet didn't hit me, but it was not a nice experience.

Hope this helps,

Radial.

PoormansACE

Thsnks Radial,
I'm planning on running morgan fuels Omega 15% witch is 50-50 synth-castor. the only reason I dont go full synth (cool power) is I started using omega15% in all my engines about 4-5 years ago and it is so consistant from jug to jug I never have to retune a motor when one runs dry, I only retune for ambient temp changes. I follow the method described by dons hobby (lean to peak and back off 2-3 clicks) and I seldom have any trouble. usually the glow plug gets weak from old age and hard running

Im putting this on an autogyro go to flyingbalsa.com and check out the pt.25. So a cowl is not an issue, besides this way i can show it off!

Your vidieo is encouraging. sounds like she idles& transisions well! smokes like you got her plenty rich!
thanks again!

Radial power

I was trying to keep the engine running somewhat rich, but wankel tends to smoke a lot anyway. In fact it runs so hot that using synthetic oil in a wankel is like putting smoke fluid in a conventional engine: they both are promptly converted into smoke . That's why it's necessary to run castor oil in a wankel. Full synth is NOT recommended. This is important: lubrication is probably the single most important factor when it comes to the service life of these wankels. Also, with a 50/50 blend, I wouldn't go below 20% or better 22% total oil content.
Finally, 15% nitro is a bit too much IMHO. I tried that level of nitro in mine and the engine got so hot that it took almost 10 minutes for the engine after the run to cool down enough to be touched. You could try adding some castor oil to your fuel, but I think the best idea would be to mix your own fuel. It's also very cheap if you can get methanol for a good price. This is not to blow tou off I'm writing this in order to help you extend the life of your engine as much as possible. Feel free to ignore these pieces of advice, if you want.

I had forgotten to touch the glow plug in my previous post: the type I SHOULD be run with its special RE type plug. However, this plug promptly disappeared from the market together with the type I engine ([:@]), so it's necessary to experiment with other glow plugs to see which one works the best. I'd suggest to start with an OS F plug, as my engine came with an F plug fitted (though I had bought a set of five RE plugs with it). For my test runs I've only used an RE plug so far, but the F should at least be able to get the engine running.

Radial.

Motorboy

Read here how i learned and use the wankel engine: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5998885/tm.htm [)]

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

Don't run that thing on straight omega, it is not 50/50. It contains 17% oil 70/30 syn/castor. Run the fuel suggested by O.S. in the owners manual. http://manuals.hobbico.com/osm/rotary49pi-manual.pdf

The wankel is not the same as a piston engine as far as lube requirements, at the very least, add 10-12oz of castor to that gallon of omega before you run that wankel for the first time.


BTW, the nipple on the engine is not for tank pressure, there is no tank pressure needed. Treat the nipple as a crankcase vent on a fourcycle and direct it overboard.

PoormansACE

thanks rc dude!

MajorTomski

Poorman, I ran one and flew one back in 1970, so I don't even remember what we used. Best of luck.

fizzwater2

My Feedback: (61)

Wow, their comment on the fuel required says LOTS of castor oil... this is from the manual that the link was posted for. Does anyone make commercially available fuel with this much castor these days?

For this engine, use top quality methanol-based model
engine fuel containing approximately 25% castor-oil
and between 5% and 15% nitromethane.

Motorboy

Add more castor oil in fuel if you has too low castor oil percentage in the fuel.

Edit: corrected some wrong in text.

LeeHop

Fizz -

Sig makes a 25% castor fuel - I bought a gallon of it (10% nitro) at the local hobby shop. Says Sig Champion on the bottle.

-LeeH

PoormansACE

OK gang, I know I shouldn't touch the dead skunk, not even with a 10" pole but I will. These are my beliefs and opinions and besides, its my engine to tar up anyways!
1: there have been many improvements in synthetic oil technology. like everything else, its an ongoing evolution, and todays "best" is tomorrows "runner up"

2:AA castor builds carbon deposits, and gums up. the big pluses are its High boiling point and its alcohol soluible.

3: modern synthetics are much better lubricants than AA castor.

4:the best thing for ANY engine is to run the best lubicant you can buy.

5: the only reason I dont run full synth in all my motors is not all of my motors are ringed (morgan fules recomends Omega for ABC,ABN,ABS ringlessmotors and cool power, full synth, for ringed.) and I dont want to keep aronud 2 different fuels. Everything I own specs 15% in the Manuel, even the wankel!


FACT: morgan fuel dose not run AA castor google 'em, goto there website!
FACT: I have let engines sit up dirty, & full of fuel for up to 2 years after being flown noly to drag them out, slap in a new plug, prime it, flip it, and GO!
Try that with sig!!

again these are my opinions, if you think im wrong, thats fine. Its my toy, If it blows up, I'll be the one dodging the shrapnel!

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

You're right, it's your engine. You asked for advice here, we gave it. You choose to ignore it and roll the dice anyway.

BTW, morgans omega does not have the best of anything in it. It is a okay fuel for everyday sport flying. The Hi-tech synthetic oils are available in europe, not here in the US. You give morgans fuel too much credit here, they wil not even reveal the type lubricants and their percentages on the label. Sig is better fuel IMO.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

If you add about 5 oz. of castor to the Omega that will bring the oil content up to about 20% and maybe keep you from frying it too soon...
These things don't like to be lugged either...a 9X6 or 10X5 should be a good flying prop.

cncswiss1

I also fly Omega, and love it. I add 5 oz of castor to it for break in of engines. works great, makes a slippery mess. I use the break in mix on my small stuff as well.

Motorboy

PoormansACE


2:AA castor builds carbon deposits, and gums up.

Answer:

When the engine is not to be used for some
months (for example, as between flying
seasons), a worthwhile precaution is to
remove it from the airframe and, after
washing off the exterior with alcohol (not
gasoline nor kerosene), remove carefully the
carburetor with intake pipe, glow plug and all
silicone tubing and put them safely aside.
Then, immerse the engine in a container of
alcohol. Rotate the crankshaft while the
engine is immersed. If foreign matter is
visible in the alcohol, rinse the engine again
in clean alcohol. Finally, shake off and dry
the alcohol ,and inject some after-run oil in
the glowplug hole and rotate the crankshaft
several times by hand.
Reinstall the carburetor with intake pipe and
glowplug on the engine and keep it in a dry
place after putting in a vinyl bag.


1: there have been many improvements in synthetic oil technology. like everything else, its an ongoing evolution, and todays "best" is tomorrows "runner up"

and

3: modern synthetics are much better lubricants than AA castor.

Read here: http://www.modelenginenews.org/faq/index.html#qa5

Important to prevent lean out the engine!!!
Do not close the needlevalve and mixture
control valve too far as this will cause a lean
setting and over heating of the engine. This
can, in turn, create nitromethane oxide
leading to internal rusting of the engine.
Always adjust the needlevalve slightly on the
rich side of peak rpm.

Do not leave unused fuel in the engine at the
conclusion of a day’s flying. Accepted
practice is to cut off the fuel supply while the
engine is still running at full throttle, then
expel as much fuel residue as possible by
turning the engine over 5-10 seconds with
the electric starter. Finally, inject some afterrun
oil through the glowplug hole and turn the
engine over several times by hand.