Does the OS 46 LA have...
#3
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From: Tokoroa, , NEW ZEALAND
I wouldn't bother those gaskets are often more trouble than they're worth.
The quality of machining on the OS engines is good enough that you can just bolt the muffler on without any real worry of leakage. Remember to re-tighten the bolts while everything's still hot after the first run.
The quality of machining on the OS engines is good enough that you can just bolt the muffler on without any real worry of leakage. Remember to re-tighten the bolts while everything's still hot after the first run.
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From: Sailing in the Eastern Caribbean
I have had success using regular epoxy glue as a gasket. It will not glue the silencer to the engine providing there is some oil residue on the surfaces.
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From: Formosa, ARGENTINA
I would think the epoxy would turn to goo with the heat.
I use rtv between the muffler and engine. Put a little bit on each side, give it a few minutes to get a little tacky and then put it on. The extra that oozes out I will sometimes smooth out around the joint. Works really well.
I use rtv between the muffler and engine. Put a little bit on each side, give it a few minutes to get a little tacky and then put it on. The extra that oozes out I will sometimes smooth out around the joint. Works really well.
#6

Permatex copper kote (if that is spelled right) great stuff have used a thin coat on exhaust, carb o rings, and mufflers where the 2 or 3 pieces screw together with a long bolt, good for gas,diesel,or glow no leaksand do not forget the split lock washers on the muffler bolts martin
#8
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what is the purpose of a muffler gasket? Does it matter if there is a small amount of leaking at the muffler/engine interface?
I seem to recall that my OS and Enya engines did not come with gaskets, but my Magnums did.
I seem to recall that my OS and Enya engines did not come with gaskets, but my Magnums did.
#9
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No it doesn`t matter at all, I use no gaskets on all engines I own. For the gasket to be of any benefit, the fit and finish of the mating surfaces must be very crude, I have none engines with that sloppy finish
#10

Asmund,
I do have a few with fairly rough faces on muffler or exhaust stack... Not criticizing your point, just adding my experiences.
I use brown gasket paper about .25mm (0.01"?) thick, and retighten the muffler bolts after the first few runs. Once it has had heat, vibration and oils exposure, the paper lasts very well. A hobby knife tracing the inner and outer outlines works quickly and well.
Why use gaskets? I don't like oil weeping from the joint surface, as it often does even with very nicely (apparently) finished mating faces... And, if the bolts loosen during a flight, the metals can beat on each other, darkening the exhaust oil. A gasket prevents that.
I do have a few with fairly rough faces on muffler or exhaust stack... Not criticizing your point, just adding my experiences.
I use brown gasket paper about .25mm (0.01"?) thick, and retighten the muffler bolts after the first few runs. Once it has had heat, vibration and oils exposure, the paper lasts very well. A hobby knife tracing the inner and outer outlines works quickly and well.
Why use gaskets? I don't like oil weeping from the joint surface, as it often does even with very nicely (apparently) finished mating faces... And, if the bolts loosen during a flight, the metals can beat on each other, darkening the exhaust oil. A gasket prevents that.
#11
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Like I said, if you have a very poorly manufactured engine then the gasket may be beneficial and you should use it. I have never had any use of a gasket between the muffler and the engine. The oil residue coming from a potentional leak from the muffler joint will be very minimal compared to what is coming from the exhaust outlet anyway, the engine will run fine anyhow
#12
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ORIGINAL: j.duncker
I have had success using regular epoxy glue as a gasket. It will not glue the silencer to the engine providing there is some oil residue on the surfaces.
I have had success using regular epoxy glue as a gasket. It will not glue the silencer to the engine providing there is some oil residue on the surfaces.
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Epoxy will work, as long as a lubricant is used as a mold release. Just as you mentioned.
I prefer to use silicone adhesive, which does not have to be high temperature silicone.
Frankly, if the engine is that far out of kilter due to a machining error, I would be tempted to have a machine shop (or a friend with same) true up the flanges as they should originally have been made. No gasket is necessary when the flanges are machined correctly.
Ed Cregger



