What's so different with the Magnum 4 strokes?
06-02-2003, 01:39 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: OR
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What's so different with the Magnum 4 strokes?
I noticed on the Tower hobbies site that they say not to use synthetic oil with the Magnum 4 strokes. I thought that 4 strokes like synthetic? How is a Magnum different?
06-02-2003, 03:14 AM
#2
My Feedback: (27)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Athol,
ID
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
magnum 4 strokes
I don't really know why they state that on the fuel. I use 18% synthetic in the three of mine and my flying buddy uses the same in his 6 mag 4 strokes. We have no problems and some engines are several years old and flown a lot.
06-02-2003, 09:05 AM
#3
Strange reommendation....
2-Stroke Fuel (Recommended: Power Master 10%, Not Carried)
Break-In: No More than 15% Nitro-Methane, No Less
20% Castor Oil.
After Break-In: No Less Than 16% Castor Oil Should
Be Used.
Synthetic Oil Content Should Not Be Used.
__________________________________________________
Strange....because they recommend 10%....for the .91
(which they don't carry....Power master)....which is a
blend of castor and synthetic....
POWER BLEND - NEW! Available in 10% and 15% nitromethane. POWER BLEND is the perfect all purpose model engine fuel. Great for both 2-Stroke as well as 4-Stroke engines. Its 18% lubricant package contains castor and several synthetic oils offering complete protection from top to bottom.
Premium Sport Fuels - Our Premier Fuel Line! 2/3 synthetic and 1/3 castor. Available in 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 40, 50, and 60% nitromethane, these fuels have rocked the sport and racing events. Our 15% has set every pylon record in the US and worldwide and is currently used exclusively by the N.M.P.R.A. sponsored Gold Cup Series. If you want a powerful fuel that is safe enough for a beginner, use POWERMASTER Premium Sport Fuels
And even the 4-stroke fuel is a blend....(except the YS)
Use These Fine POWERMASTER Fuels....
10% 4-Cycle 15% Oil Synthetic Castor Blend
15% 4-Cycle 15% Oil Synthetic Castor Blend
YS 20/20 20% Oil All-Synthetic
Magnum engines....does however, recommend straight castor
So what gives....don't ask me....
Break-In: No More than 15% Nitro-Methane, No Less
20% Castor Oil.
After Break-In: No Less Than 16% Castor Oil Should
Be Used.
Synthetic Oil Content Should Not Be Used.
__________________________________________________
Strange....because they recommend 10%....for the .91
(which they don't carry....Power master)....which is a
blend of castor and synthetic....
POWER BLEND - NEW! Available in 10% and 15% nitromethane. POWER BLEND is the perfect all purpose model engine fuel. Great for both 2-Stroke as well as 4-Stroke engines. Its 18% lubricant package contains castor and several synthetic oils offering complete protection from top to bottom.
Premium Sport Fuels - Our Premier Fuel Line! 2/3 synthetic and 1/3 castor. Available in 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 40, 50, and 60% nitromethane, these fuels have rocked the sport and racing events. Our 15% has set every pylon record in the US and worldwide and is currently used exclusively by the N.M.P.R.A. sponsored Gold Cup Series. If you want a powerful fuel that is safe enough for a beginner, use POWERMASTER Premium Sport Fuels
And even the 4-stroke fuel is a blend....(except the YS)
Use These Fine POWERMASTER Fuels....
10% 4-Cycle 15% Oil Synthetic Castor Blend
15% 4-Cycle 15% Oil Synthetic Castor Blend
YS 20/20 20% Oil All-Synthetic
Magnum engines....does however, recommend straight castor
So what gives....don't ask me....
06-02-2003, 10:12 AM
#4
What's so different with the Magnum 4 strokes?
The Magnum XL-30RFS manual says:
"For the break-in period you must use a fuel containing no more than 10% nitromethane and no less than 20% Castor Oil lubricant. Use of fuel containing more than the recommended percentage of nitromethane or any synthetic lubricants will cause the engine to run too hot and result in excessive wear and engine
failure in a very short period of time.
Once the engine has been adequately broken-in (about 1 gallon of the recommended break-in fuel), a fuel containing up to, but no more than 15% nitromethane and no less than 16% Castor Oil and synthetic lubricant blended fuel can be used.
Note: We do not recommend using fuels that contain only synthetic lubricants. Synthetic lubricants have a much lower flash point than Castor Oil lubricants. Flash point is the point at which the lubricant begins to actually burn and loses it’s lubricating qualities. Using fuels containing a blend of Castor Oil and synthetic lubricants results in an engine that runs cooler and lasts longer. One lean run using a fuel containing only synthetic lubricants can cause engine failure. Using fuels with a Castor Oil
and synthetic blend of lubricants greatly reduces this chance."
"For the break-in period you must use a fuel containing no more than 10% nitromethane and no less than 20% Castor Oil lubricant. Use of fuel containing more than the recommended percentage of nitromethane or any synthetic lubricants will cause the engine to run too hot and result in excessive wear and engine
failure in a very short period of time.
Once the engine has been adequately broken-in (about 1 gallon of the recommended break-in fuel), a fuel containing up to, but no more than 15% nitromethane and no less than 16% Castor Oil and synthetic lubricant blended fuel can be used.
Note: We do not recommend using fuels that contain only synthetic lubricants. Synthetic lubricants have a much lower flash point than Castor Oil lubricants. Flash point is the point at which the lubricant begins to actually burn and loses it’s lubricating qualities. Using fuels containing a blend of Castor Oil and synthetic lubricants results in an engine that runs cooler and lasts longer. One lean run using a fuel containing only synthetic lubricants can cause engine failure. Using fuels with a Castor Oil
and synthetic blend of lubricants greatly reduces this chance."
06-02-2003, 01:15 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: OR
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What's so different with the Magnum 4 strokes?
So I guess the real question is this then. Are magnum engines more susceptible to heat than other 4 strokers? Is this the price you pay for a cheaper engine?
I have a saito and would hate to have to have different fuel for each one. It's hard enough to remember to bring fuel to the field let alone two different blends
.
I have a saito and would hate to have to have different fuel for each one. It's hard enough to remember to bring fuel to the field let alone two different blends
.
06-02-2003, 01:45 PM
#6
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
What's so different with the Magnum 4 strokes?
Things are changing rapidly in today's world.
A while back, Magnum produced some engines that did not utilize upper connecting rod bushings. Castor oil lubricant can make this an acceptable practice. It is thicker and more viscous than synthetic oils that are commonly used in glow fuel.
I heard a rumor a short while back that magnum is now bushing the connecting rods, at least on the four-stroke engines. Is it true? I don't know for a fact, but it would have been a good move on their part.
Castor oil is good for four-stroke engines. The problem arises when it comes time to clean away the eventual and inevitable varnish/gum build-up in engines utilizing castor oil lubricant.
Engines with separate heads and cylinders are no problem to clean. Engines utilizing a one piece cylinder and head assembly are a real bear to clean, hence the advice not to use castor oil lubricant in this type of engine.
Some have used substandard castor oil in their four-strokes and have suffered sticky valve assemblies. This is not the fault of the castor oil. It is the fault of the person utilizing the wrong kind of castor oil to make the fuel.
I would break-in the Magnum using mostly castor oil and then switch to synthetic, if that is what I wanted to do. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry much about it. Keep the engine rich, make sure that the fuel contains at least eighteen to twenty percent lubricant and have fun.
Many folks are using all synthetic lube fuel in their Magnum engines without a single problem.
A while back, Magnum produced some engines that did not utilize upper connecting rod bushings. Castor oil lubricant can make this an acceptable practice. It is thicker and more viscous than synthetic oils that are commonly used in glow fuel.
I heard a rumor a short while back that magnum is now bushing the connecting rods, at least on the four-stroke engines. Is it true? I don't know for a fact, but it would have been a good move on their part.
Castor oil is good for four-stroke engines. The problem arises when it comes time to clean away the eventual and inevitable varnish/gum build-up in engines utilizing castor oil lubricant.
Engines with separate heads and cylinders are no problem to clean. Engines utilizing a one piece cylinder and head assembly are a real bear to clean, hence the advice not to use castor oil lubricant in this type of engine.
Some have used substandard castor oil in their four-strokes and have suffered sticky valve assemblies. This is not the fault of the castor oil. It is the fault of the person utilizing the wrong kind of castor oil to make the fuel.
I would break-in the Magnum using mostly castor oil and then switch to synthetic, if that is what I wanted to do. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry much about it. Keep the engine rich, make sure that the fuel contains at least eighteen to twenty percent lubricant and have fun.
Many folks are using all synthetic lube fuel in their Magnum engines without a single problem.
