ORIGINAL: Sport_Pilot

Sometimes they do the wrong thing and take longer and sometimes they don't fix the problem, I have heard horror stories from all of them from time to time. Though ACE does take a couple of weeks longer than most.



If there is no air leak there is no reason to remove the carb and check it. Pro's know its best not to take apart something that is working. A score does not mean it was leaking, in fact it could have been scored on disassembly.

Ah, but it has shown to be very common, especially with Magnum. In fact it has some benficial gain in providing turbulance and atomization of fuel. There is often a mismatch between the head and manifold as well, though I am not sure there is any advantage there.

Because cars have been made to resist fuel containing alcohol for almost two decades now.

You still have a problem, you just decided not to deal with it.

All of my TT engines have had equal quality to my OS engines except for a tendancy toward loose screws. I agree the hobby services are worse. My TT .91 FS worked better than my OS .91 FS except that it needed a longer break in. I suspect (because you have not told us what the problem was) that your problem was something else. It may have been a fuel system problem, such as a leakey fuel line or tank, or it needed more break in time, or you simply didn't understand some differance in that engine and the engines you had before. In fact I think this has been the first negative report I have seen on that engine.

But then again there are lemons from OS and others so this could also be a lemon.

Automotive O-rings are almost invariably neoprene.

This synthetic rubber is resistant to petroleum products and to glow-fuel...
Before the superior flexibility of silicone tubing caught the entire industry, all glow-fuel tubing and seals were neoprene.

Most carburettor O-rings still are...


Bill, Jucava,


Please check where *exactly* your TT engines were manufactured/assembled...

From your multiple problems, I fear it may not be South Korea...

The problem that drove crazy was that the engine was surging at any carb setting, I may be wrong but that means fuel or air leak, I knew wasn't fuel so what the other option?

I don't want you agree with me, but I expect to have top quality on any product I buy; you may think diferent but my hard earn dollar is top quality so I expect to get a top quality product, and you can argue all you want, but like I said on my first post, this was my Thunder Tiger expirience.

Quote:

ORIGINAL: jucava

I don't want you agree with me, but I expect to have top quality on any product I buy; you may think different but my hard earn dollar is top quality so I expect to get a top quality product...

Jucava,


I believe EVERYONE can agree on this principle...

A low price cannot by any means justify a DOA condition.
It can justify a lower performance potential, somewhat lower reliability, or a somewhat shorter service life, however...

But it must be be fully functional out of the box...
If one cannot fully assemble an engine (the exhaust threads...), it is DOA for all practical purposes.

This is what QC is meant to prevent.

Agree 100%

I have been doing this for 6 year and fiddle with a lot of brands, I'm not an engine guru but I know my way arround 2 or 4 strokes glow or gas; and there are some brands that transform you on a mechanic instead of a pilot. Would I try to aboid you guys from buying what ever brand you want?

Of course not, but I, let me repeat I would never ever again buy a Thunder Tiger product. And it is my will and opinion and you don't have to agree or follow.

XOXO

Pure luck of the draw. Sometimes you will get away with it, sometimes you won't.

When it doesn't work, you know what to do.


Ed Cregger

Well since no one answered this question yet I will take it up. I have a Saito .82 in my Reactor as well and I use a APC 14x4W Prop. This is the perfect prop for this plane if your son is into 3D. Go check out this thread in the 3D forum:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4455981/tm.htm

It is 53 pages long with tons of info on the Reactor. Good luck!

REally
strange i have a .75 TT and with a Master airscrew K series13X6 it doesn't reach 10.000,00 rpm like somebody said..
fuel rapicon 15% for four stroke
broked in as manual says
os F glow plug
i really don't understand... only 9.000,00 rpm
and more when i do a torque roll it goes down and up on rpm..
at beginning i though it was the fuel tank to much far from engine (in a fliton inspire 60)... so i put it near the engine...
please tell me something...
thanks

I do not know where the 10k came from. Mine spins a 13x6 K series at around 9.000 too. In a French journal they guys got 9.000 as well. I switched to a 12x8 K series (peak at 9.400, practical rpm 9.200). This prop gives me more dynamic flight performance.

I think a current O.S. (Alpha series) is far better than a current Thunder Tiger. But for a change, buying a TT can be fun.