What are the basic settings for the YS-63FZs? I have run this engine a number of times, flown it once but I can not get it up to max RPM (wide open throttle). It stalls out and dies just above 8,000 to 8,700 RPM. It will run at 4,000 RPM consistently for long periods of time. But if one tries to accelerate, it will die. It will die at idle too. So I am thinking I need to start from scratch adjustment wise, from basic regulator setting, HSN setting and LSN settings. What are they. Currently the LSN is one and one eight turn out, regulator seems be below flush setting and the HSN is around 2 turns out, movement a quarter turn either way makes no difference, so I keep it rich. Nice smoke from muffler indicating oil is going throgh the engine.

When it stalls out, it is near if not detonating. When running around 4,000 RPM cyclinder head temperature is around 140 degrees, hotter in some places but nothing exceeds 160 degrees F including the muffler. I note even the intake manifold is hot (pre heating fuel and thus can lead to detonation), running around 130 degrees F temperature. On initial run there was a leak on the split line with carb, tighten that up, no more leak. Checked the valves and they were a little loose but not above the max, reset them to 0.04MM (cold).

Running a OS Type F glow plug, and Power Master 20/20 fuel. Using a 12 X 6 Master Airscrew Prop.

Anybody's thoughts?????

Cheers,

Chip

I don't have a YS, but looks like the engine is running too lean...or the regulator should be opened to allow more fuel through the engine.

Another thing is that I think you are running a too small propeller there.... I think a better prop should be a 13x6 or 12x8.

Saludos,
Jorge

Sounds like mine. I ran mine for a couple of years and it was pretty much a fuel and forget engine. I mean I went several months without touching the needle valve. It sat for about a year and then it started to act all messed up. I read here and there to look at the diaphragm. I pulled mine apart and it was stretched out. You could see where the plunger had been pushing on it so it was not as tight as it should be. I ordered (4) new ones from [link=http://www.centralhobbies.com/Engines/parts/YS63FZEx.html]HERE[/link] item number 71

My settings are regulator screw even with rim, about 2 turns open on the main, YS 20-20 fuel, MS 13X6 prop.

Sounds like you ether have dirt in the needle valve or the regulator is not giving enough fuel and it is leaning out.

Dru.

Edited for spelling

Chip,


I never like to bring in bad news, but it is my experience as well (with a .61SE)...

After a YS engine has not been run for a relatively long while, it will NEVER run well again, until after the diaphragm and other fuel system components have been replaced with new items.


It seems these parts deteriorate over time and this will happen, even if the engine was previously run on all-synthetic fuel.
So it is not castor-goo that you can blame...

The parts are not really that expensive, but S+H sure makes them appear to be...

Chip, is she getting normal levels of tank pressure when running? Do you get the normal expulsion of air when you disconnect the check valve?

Your engine's symptoms remind me of what mine does without the tank pressure line connected.