Problem problem problem
10-30-2009 | 03:18 PM
#26
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From: Weatherford,
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RE: Problem problem problem
He says he has a good idle, so do not change the air bleed needle at all. The airbleed needle regulates the airflow though the small hole in the front of the carb. Sounds like it is right on.
Height of the needle valve is not a problem as long as the tank position is correct with the carb (and he says it is so). I am of the opinion the hugh prop is the problem, it lugs the engine down, keeps the RPM down (but helps the idle, right?). A 10 X 6 is plenty of prop for the engine, since it is not new, maybe a tiny bit to much, maybe a 10 X 5 or a 10 X 4 would be much better.
And since it is a sleeve bearing engine, some Castor ought to be in the fuel.
Good luck,
Chip
Height of the needle valve is not a problem as long as the tank position is correct with the carb (and he says it is so). I am of the opinion the hugh prop is the problem, it lugs the engine down, keeps the RPM down (but helps the idle, right?). A 10 X 6 is plenty of prop for the engine, since it is not new, maybe a tiny bit to much, maybe a 10 X 5 or a 10 X 4 would be much better.
And since it is a sleeve bearing engine, some Castor ought to be in the fuel.
Good luck,
Chip
10-31-2009 | 02:15 AM
#27
Thread Starter
RE: Problem problem problem
RE: Problem problem problem - 10/31/2009 2:28 AM
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still4given
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Status: offline The needle valve location is not going to matter. All it is is a valve. The relation of the spray bar in the carb and the center-line of the tank is what is important. Almost every person here has suggested that you switch to a smaller prop, yet if haven't seen in any of your posts that you have. This may be the single most important thing and easiest to try, Have you done it yet?
You said the engine is used. It may just not have enough compression to create good enough fuel draw to pull the fuel straight up. Especially if you tank is not right behind the engine. Did you check to see if the clunk line has come undone inside the tank? Very common.
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RE: Problem problem problem - 10/31/2009 5:12 AM
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Vacaman
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From: Santiago, CHILE
Status: offline You may have a loop on the clunk line, inside the tank, and its against the front side.
Also, some time ago a friend of mine had the same problem on a engine that he bought used. The engine had a screw inside the muffler, after the baffle. When the engine pointed up, the screw jump to the exit hole and shut the engine off.
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RE: Problem problem problem - 10/31/2009 5:15 AM
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grinder-RCU
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Status: offline Check fuel line inside tank for cracks. Fuel line coud be cut inside the tank where it comes off the brass tube. Also clunk could be stuck forward in the tank resulting in a fuel draw loss when held verticle.
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still4given
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Status: offline The needle valve location is not going to matter. All it is is a valve. The relation of the spray bar in the carb and the center-line of the tank is what is important. Almost every person here has suggested that you switch to a smaller prop, yet if haven't seen in any of your posts that you have. This may be the single most important thing and easiest to try, Have you done it yet?
You said the engine is used. It may just not have enough compression to create good enough fuel draw to pull the fuel straight up. Especially if you tank is not right behind the engine. Did you check to see if the clunk line has come undone inside the tank? Very common.
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RE: Problem problem problem - 10/31/2009 5:12 AM
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Vacaman
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From: Santiago, CHILE
Status: offline You may have a loop on the clunk line, inside the tank, and its against the front side.
Also, some time ago a friend of mine had the same problem on a engine that he bought used. The engine had a screw inside the muffler, after the baffle. When the engine pointed up, the screw jump to the exit hole and shut the engine off.
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RE: Problem problem problem - 10/31/2009 5:15 AM
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grinder-RCU
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Status: offline Check fuel line inside tank for cracks. Fuel line coud be cut inside the tank where it comes off the brass tube. Also clunk could be stuck forward in the tank resulting in a fuel draw loss when held verticle.
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Guys,
the pick up fuel line inside the fuel tank is too "stiff",strong ,i don't know how to express my self better,
so as to make a loop.
Also,
the clunk,
i checked double it's location inside the tank,i mean it's length,
and it's not come in contact with the fuel tank vertical side.
As for the compression.
I think it's good.
But even if it isn't how should i resolve this?
I must go to my LHS and buy a 10x6 prop.
Until then,
i have thought that maybe a better glow plug will help.
On the test run,
i have used an OS A5,
now i switched to a hotter A3.
Will see.
I was also advised,
prior to take off the fuel tank and check it ,
to install temporarily on the side of the fuse a similar fuel tank and run the same test.
If engine behaves the same,
then the problem is in the fuel tank.
10-31-2009 | 05:22 AM
#28
Senior Member
RE: Problem problem problem
If you use a larger prop on an engine you should use a colder glow plug, a hotter plug may make it worse...though the A3 should be the right with the 10x6 prop.
10-31-2009 | 07:06 AM
#29
Thread Starter
RE: Problem problem problem
ORIGINAL: estradajae
If you use a larger prop on an engine you should use a colder glow plug, a hotter plug may make it worse...though the A3 should be the right with the 10x6 prop.
If you use a larger prop on an engine you should use a colder glow plug, a hotter plug may make it worse...though the A3 should be the right with the 10x6 prop.
Hello all!
Just came back from my LHS.
I bought an APC 10x6 prop and a white plastic muffler to make my life easier....easier to start my engine using the starter.
But it's raining too much outthere to risk it.
So,
probably tomorrow morning.
I will let you all know...
10-31-2009 | 09:41 AM
#31
RE: Problem problem problem
Hi!
I have been using many OS LA .40 engines through the years and I can assure you that your problems is not related to the 11x6 prop.
In fact the OS LA .40 have no difficulties swinging big props like a 11x6 and 12x4 if you fly at sea level .
10x6 is a prop size that is not that good for the engine, at least not in a high winged trainer like the Kyosho "Calmato" and planes like that with a span of 160cm. For smaller planes like a Q-500 racer weighting around 1700-1800g the 10x6 could be used though.
Best 11x6 prop is the RAM , Graupner Cam-prop or the APC.
A 10x4 or 10x5 is way to small for most airplanes where the OS LA .40 could be considered
For best performance use an OS 8 or Enya 3 glowplug. Other good glow plugs are Nova-Rossi 4, 4A or Rossi 3 or 4.
It is also vital that the tank is not too big. A 240cc tank (8oz) works good for a 6,5cc engine (.40).Best tank set-up is to use two clunks,one for pressure from the silencer and the other to the carb , this is called " and gives a more even fuel flow to the engine. Even better is to use a Tettra "Bubbleless" tank..but this isn't necessary for your engine.
Remember to place the tank according to the "Tank rule"!
Fuel!
The OS LA series of engines run fairly good on 0% nitro, but they will run even better on 5%nitro. 10-15% nitro is just a waste of money on these engines as they throttle and run just as good on 5% nitro.
20% Castor oil, 5% nitro and 75% Metanol is a good blend.
Placing the high speed needle 10cm from the carb is no problem.
I have been using many OS LA .40 engines through the years and I can assure you that your problems is not related to the 11x6 prop.
In fact the OS LA .40 have no difficulties swinging big props like a 11x6 and 12x4 if you fly at sea level .
10x6 is a prop size that is not that good for the engine, at least not in a high winged trainer like the Kyosho "Calmato" and planes like that with a span of 160cm. For smaller planes like a Q-500 racer weighting around 1700-1800g the 10x6 could be used though.
Best 11x6 prop is the RAM , Graupner Cam-prop or the APC.
A 10x4 or 10x5 is way to small for most airplanes where the OS LA .40 could be considered
For best performance use an OS 8 or Enya 3 glowplug. Other good glow plugs are Nova-Rossi 4, 4A or Rossi 3 or 4.
It is also vital that the tank is not too big. A 240cc tank (8oz) works good for a 6,5cc engine (.40).Best tank set-up is to use two clunks,one for pressure from the silencer and the other to the carb , this is called " and gives a more even fuel flow to the engine. Even better is to use a Tettra "Bubbleless" tank..but this isn't necessary for your engine.
Remember to place the tank according to the "Tank rule"!
Fuel!
The OS LA series of engines run fairly good on 0% nitro, but they will run even better on 5%nitro. 10-15% nitro is just a waste of money on these engines as they throttle and run just as good on 5% nitro.
20% Castor oil, 5% nitro and 75% Metanol is a good blend.
Placing the high speed needle 10cm from the carb is no problem.
10-31-2009 | 11:01 AM
#32
Thread Starter
RE: Problem problem problem
ORIGINAL: estradajae
Do you mean white plastic spinner?
Good luck!
Do you mean white plastic spinner?
Good luck!
Ups,
yes...my bad...white plastic spinner
Jaka,
i don't get it...why use a small fuel tank rather than a 10oz,that i use?
What's the deal?
10-31-2009 | 11:55 AM
#33
RE: Problem problem problem
Hi!
Problem with larger tanks is that the engine cannot cope with the changing pressure that occurs from full tank to nearly empty! Our engines go leaner as the tank empties. You probably know this already. This problem with the engine going leaner and leaner as the tank empties is worsened the larger the tank is.
To remedy this lean out tendency it is vital not to use a too large tank and to use two clunks (Uni-flow system)in the tank for more even pressure distribution to the carb.
But...a 300cc ( 10oz) will probably work okay too. But I would still recommend a 240cc (8oz) tank. On this tank you can fly for nearly 15minutes.
Problem with larger tanks is that the engine cannot cope with the changing pressure that occurs from full tank to nearly empty! Our engines go leaner as the tank empties. You probably know this already. This problem with the engine going leaner and leaner as the tank empties is worsened the larger the tank is.
To remedy this lean out tendency it is vital not to use a too large tank and to use two clunks (Uni-flow system)in the tank for more even pressure distribution to the carb.
But...a 300cc ( 10oz) will probably work okay too. But I would still recommend a 240cc (8oz) tank. On this tank you can fly for nearly 15minutes.
10-31-2009 | 01:16 PM
#34
Senior Member
RE: Problem problem problem
ORIGINAL: Kostas1
I used an APC 11x6 prop,
10% N Cool power fuel.
I used an APC 11x6 prop,
10% N Cool power fuel.
Using all-synthetic 'Cruel Power' fuel, in a bronze-bushed ABN engine... It is just not like you!
This engine should be run on fuel that has a lot of castor oil in it. Preferably even an all-castor lubricant package.
Even though it is probably not the reason for your engine 'cutting out', I am surprised reading this from you!
Check that the fuel-nozzle is situated about 0.5 mm shy of the center, of the carburettor's bore.
It is adjustable in this engine and would have adverse effect if it is not.
