^Horatio>

Just out of interest, what size hole did you drill in your Moki's backplates, and what size did you tap the threads? Could you post links to the pressure nipple you used? Or any details on how exactly you got the job done - did you use a pillar drill or dremmel?

Texan

My Feedback: (10)

Hey Moki lovers,
I have a NIB Moki/Mark 2.10 available listed on RCU...

BTW, I ran a 1.35 Moki on a Cermark 1/4 scale Pitts and it performed great... light, powerful and uses cheap FAI fuel

vease

Moki 135 has developed a problem after being perfect for a few years.

After a few minutes flying it will suddenly have no throttle. It doesn't just stop, it slowly winds down then stops. The winding down can take maybe 20 seconds. This initially happened every third or so flight but its now happened for the last 5 so whatever was beginning to happen has now happened.

Not tried anything new on it yet.

Any ideas what could be causing it?

^Horatio>

Have you inspected the rotary low speed adjustment dial on the carb? They sometimes have problems when the O-ring perishes. This means that the dial won't stay put and also causes leaks. Mine had problems quite early on with this issue and has worked perfectly once addressed.

vease

This doesn't happen at low speed. It can be any speed, even flat out. The idling is fine. It will also start up again fine after its done it. By the time its landed and we've got it back to the pits the engine would have cooled quite a bit. I wandered if it was heat related at all?

^Horatio>

If the low speed adjustment o-ring is broken, it will effect your carb at any speed.

vease

Appreciate that but for the first couple of minutes into each flight its fautless.

LuvBipes

My Feedback: (4)

A couple of my Mokis did something similar. In my case what was happening was that the 2 o-rings that seal the low-speed disk and keep it from rotating shrunk and hardened over time. What happens as the o-rings loosens, is that the low-speed disk then rotates due to engine vibration. On one of my engines, it rotated enough to completely block-off the fuel supply causing a deadstick situation. This can be hard to diagnose because it can't be "seen" when you tear down the carb.

The solution is to place a small dollop of silicon glue (I use the GOOP brand) where the low-speed disk meets the carb near the main needle valve flange. This solves the problem and keeps the disk from rotating. The silicon glue can easily be pried away for maintenance, tear down, etc. I only do this after break-in and once the low speed setting has been fine tuned. Obviously, the area where the silicon glue is to be applied has to be scrupulously cleaned and degreased prior to application.

bigphil

My Feedback: (6)

Just flew my NOS Moki 2.10 yesterday. I put an hour on it in short intervals on the bench and it ran flawlessly. Maidened the plane yesterday and again flawless performance. I have a few tweaks to make on the plane but the engine is great.

I'm guessing this engine has been laying around for quite a while before finding it's way to me. There was a written insert in the box from Horizon Hobby who no longer handles them so I assume from that it has aged in the box for some time. So far, I'm a fan!

Springbok Flyer

Hi guys,

Just installed a Moki 135 that I have had in stock for at least 5 years. I have a Bisson muffler fitted and I have run it rich thru twice on 16 oz of 5% nitro and 15% oil fuel. The first run I had a 16x6 MAS prop and the second run a 16x8 MAS prop.

The model is a sport float plane and weighs 6.1 kg (about 14lbs) - what prop would you guys suggest I use to fly with?

Thanks for the help.

Jan

LuvBipes

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Jan, like all Mokis, the 1.35 is a real stump puller. I have used an APC 18x8 with good results. If I may, I would recommend you up the oil content to at least 18% (with 2-3% being castor oil), especially as temps increase. You are leaving yourself open to an engine seizure otherwise.

Springbok Flyer

Hi again,

What are your thoughts regarding the use of a 16 x 8 3 blade prop on the 135?

Thanks for the advice.

Jan

LuvBipes

My Feedback: (4)

I have no direct experience with that prop, but my guess it would be withon the engines capabilities.

buckymri

My Feedback: (45)

Hey Guys I just a
quired a Moki/Mark 61 LS at a swap meet. I was planning on mounting it on my Goldberg chipmunk. This is my first Moki. This engine did not come with a glo plug. Will an OS #8 glo plug be a good one to use? Also, Who makes a good pitts muffler for these engines. I would like a pitts muffler that bolts directly to the engine without any spacers or adapter plate. It looks as if an adapter might be required to mount a muffler because the bolt holes for the muffler are on one side of the engine only , unlike the way O.S. mounts their mufflers. Any input would be helpful. thanks.

JL1

My Feedback: (93)

I have several moki glow engines and I run all of them on no Nitro with an OS F plug. They all run very reliably and have for years. However, having said that, all of mine are 135 and above so I don't know about the smaller sizes.
With regard to mufflers, I have used Bisson on most of them.

Carlos Murphy

My Feedback: (72)

I had a 2.10 in my H-9 EDGE 540 and loved it, started so easy by flipping it backwards, never had to use a electric starter on it, the plane would rock side to side while idling.

smkrcflyer

I just picked up a few moki 1.8 for a good price. Through I would give them a try? One is going in a cap and the other one in a Hangar 9 P-47 150. Any problems running them inverted? I'm looking for an inverted muffler if anyone has one to sell.

JL1

My Feedback: (93)

I have several and about half of them are inverted, They run fine once they are started but can be fussy to start, I use a starter on mine and have few if any problems.
I run no nitro fuel and an O.S. "F" plug.

smkrcflyer

Thanks JL1. What's a good size prop to use? I got moki fuel for $13 a gallon.

JL1

My Feedback: (93)

I like wood props and have good luck with zinger 18-6/10. I am not a guy looking for ultimate performance or hovering, etc. I do basic loops, rolls, touch and goes, etc.

smkrcflyer

Thanks for the prop info and I fly that way too.

Carlos Murphy

My Feedback: (72)

You'll get a more stable and smoother idle with a heavier prop, wood props are recommended by "gas" engine manufactures due to their 2 piece cranks.
One ding with a wood prop and its done, Master Airscrew's are the most durable and I recommend them to all my students for their trainers and beginner tail-draggers , APC's give great performance but can be dangerous, sand down the trailing edge, its VERY sharp.
I used a carbon fiber prop on my Moki 210, I think it was a Mejzlik.

JL1

My Feedback: (93)

Oh, silly me, I have been doing this all wrong for 30 years.

Carlos Murphy

My Feedback: (72)

No you haven't, we just have different opinions and experiences.
I've been doing this for about 45 years.

I just turned 70.....

JL1

My Feedback: (93)

I turn 75 in a couple of months, that explains your youthful inexperience