Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

Yall are getting interesting here [8D]

How about this, it's labeled as a UPF-7 [] ?????

WacoCabinaero

They were inspired by the Franklin Waco. I've heard guys who own it praise it. The seat is back too far to my eye. The red one preceded the black and silver one and I saw the Black/silver full scale without the jet engine. I really like how the cockpit top, the area between the seat back and forward to the cabane is removeable. I'm doing that to my Samson as it makes so much sense for access. Thank God I thought of it before I saw the ARF.


http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=563

old git

Hi Bill,

I tried to comment on how good your model looked with the trim colours but timed out and lost a rambling response saying how much I admired the result.

I have read of using "lightweight spackle" before but at that time i didn't know what it was. After some thought and because I was decorating the hall and stairway in my house I went to the local "Do it Yourself" emporium. I bought a number of tubs of plaster filler and found the equivalent material for us here in UK. It is available here from "Polycell" as a "No Sanding Polyfilla". Not only is it brilliant for finishing plaster walls it will sand easily. The tub feels empty the contents are so light. I have used vehicle Body Repair products before, Polyurethane Filler but it doesn't match balsa, too hard when sanding. The "No Sand Polyfilla" is really useful. I damaged the wall with a ladder after I had covered the plaster with lining paper. The spackle filled the damage easily with a damp spreader and sanded afterwards without damaging the paper.This clarification may help my countrymen when they read your comments.

I bought half a dozen packs of Koverall from Australia but haven't used it yet, have you any hints on covering with it please?




old git - - - - - - - aka John L.

Stickbuilder

Wrong-o there... It's just not my favorite alphabet plane. If it's a WACO, it's a WACO. I just happen to are more for some than others. The YMF is my personal favorite, and always has been. My Grandfather owned a YMF, and I flew in it quite a bit as a child. Wish I had received it at his passing. I didn't dislike the UPF, it's just been done to death, and the advent of the ARF 60 UPF just drove a stake in it's heart. I hope that the COX ARF of the YMF does not do the same thing for me. It had always been an elusive model airplane. Not everyone was able or willing to devote the time to build one. Now, anyone with 400 bucks can have one. I wish the owners of them well, but it's heartbreaking. Kinda like if they started building cheap Corvette's and priced them at a thousand bucks.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Well, John,

When preparing to cover with Koverall, you want to make sure that the framework tohat is to be covered is sanded sompletely smooth, and that it is as clean as you can possibly get it. Next, I apply 3 full wet coats of Nitrate clear dope to the framework, sanding between each coat, and cleaning the framework after sanding. Once you have the 3rd coat of dome on the framework, and th sanding is finished, and you have cleaned the framework, clean it again.

Cut a piece of the Koverall slightly larger than the framework upon which you wish to cover. Lay the material on the framework, making sure that the weave runs with the frame, and not on the bias. Using a small brush dipped in lacquer thinner, run the brush along the first edge of the framework, wetting the fabric. Take your finger and rub the fabric into the framework (use the ball of your forefinger to do this. The dope on the framework will be wetted, and the material will adhere to the frame. Try to pull the wrinkles out as you go, and before long, you will have a covered panel. Trim the excess oway (use a new single edge razor blade for this, since it is sharper than an X-acto blade. If you need to lap another piece to th first one, rough cut it, and finish cutting with pinking shears. overlap the piece at least 1/4" and lock it down with dope thinned 50/50 using the lacquer thinner. Once the framework is covered, you may begin applying heat using either an iron, or a heat gun. Do not stay in one spot too long, and before long, you will have a tight fabric covered panel. Apply 3 coats of the thinned Nitrate dope to seal the fabric, and then apply the finish of your choice. I'll be doing something before you need to do this, so I'll walk you through the proceedure with pictures.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

flyguy888

My Feedback: (63)

I will take your word that you believe it is overpowered with an q35. I did however spend many weeks on the net communicating with anyone I could find who had this plane. I spoke with at least 10 people. Most thought it was underpowered with a 1.2 and I was surprised how many I found who were using a q35 or q40. One guy had a q50 in his and thought it was what he needed. Maybe he was looking for vertical performance.
I am powering it based on my research and not on experience. I do not expect it to fly like a trainer. I sure hope this plane flys different than my other bipes. It would be boring if all my planes flew the same. I always hope that every new project advances both my building and flying skills. That is why I build them, because when I crash em I can fix em.
ARF's are killing the hobby for this reason. They have one bad crash and they are out of the hobby for good because they do not know what to do with the pieces.

____________________________________

Smooth seas never made a good sailor


Waco brotherhood#7

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

I really like the Kangke ARF, it looks great. It does not however look like any other UPF-7 that I have seen. If a guy attempts to locate plans for it, you'll get the less than desirable UPF-7 that was first posted []
I don't get it! What am I missing was the point of posting that ARF picture!

bart5495

Bill: Have you ever used the Sig Stix-It covering Adhesive product with the Koverall.
Doug

pimmnz

I have seen some of the Waco ARF's and the UPF ones seem to be modelled on the heavily modified Franklin version. The only plans I have are the Carlsson drawings and it looks like the red flying one a few posts ago...
Evan.

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

I guess they just do whatever when it comes to ARFS [:'(]

old git

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the "Heads up" on covering with Koverall, I will keep a look out for your posts. I already think you answered a problem I found using Nylon on a root rib, insufficient coats of dope on the structure in the first place. I have seen Balsaloc? mentioned elsewhere, have you any experience with it? I don't know if it is available in UK but "tHat" auction site would probably serve that need, if indeed it were worth pursuing.







old git - - - - - - aka John L.

Stickbuilder

I don't use Stix-it, nor do i use BalsaLoc. As I said, 3 coats of nitrate dope, and apply the Koverall with either lacquer thinner, or thinned nitrate dope. Both work equally well. Stix-it is a thermally bonding chemical (you have to add heat) The Dry-Heat Shrinkage factor is several percentage points. You will probably have started the Polymer to begin to react to the heat along the application line, and that may create a pucker adjacent the adhesion point. The nitrate works extremely well, so why bugger with a good thing?

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

pimmnz

And Balsaloc is a Solarfilm product, so you should be able to get that...
Evan.

flyguy888

My Feedback: (63)

That spakle was a good idea for filling in the wing fillets. I did not know about that product. After 40 years of building it makes me feel kinda stupid. I had been using lightweight body filler or glass and cloth for such things. That spackle was superior to both for that particular application. Much lighter, less work.
thanks

Stickbuilder

Things like giving information (good information) should be the prime reason for posting here, instead of the Bashing that foes on in the other posts. It is truly amazing what comes from these dedicated posts that address one particular model.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

gwulle

Hi Fellows;
Stickbuilder invited me over,even if, I am assembling a Cox Pica 1/5 scale YMF-5 ARF. He said he thought the # 8 was avaliable in the brotherhood. I would like to have it if it's not taken. I built a Waco YMF-5 from a PIca kit about 15 yrs. ago and lost it on the maiden flight from interference from another radio. Spent nearly a year building that plane. I almost gave the hobby up after,but I recovered. Glad to be part of your group.

Gaines

Stickbuilder

Gaines,

I posted the Differential information for you in your thread. Welcome aboard. Grab a number and have fun

Bill, AMA 4720
WACo Brotherhood #1

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Gaines,
WELCOME ABOARD




George
WACO Brotherhood # 5

gwulle

George;
Thanks for the welcome ! I sent you a PM with the info you requested.

Gaines

BHB3

My Feedback: (6)

HI BILL, YOUR WACO LOOKS EXCELLENT BUT THEN I WOULD EXPECT NOTHING LESS FROM YOU. I DONT KNOW WHAT YOUR DOCUMENTATION SHOWS BUT I HAVE SEEN SOME WACOS
WITH THE BLISTERS ON THE COWL PAINTED TO MATCH THE TRIM ON THE AIRPLANE(GOLD).
GREAT JOB AS USUAL.
SEE YOU SOON
YOUR FRIEND
BENJAMIN HOWARD BIRCHFIELD THE 3RD

Stickbuilder

Awwww, Shucks.... Thanks, Benny. [8D]

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

old git

Benjamin,

You write as if a friend to Bill but I feel you are in fact a false friend.
Whilst I agree with your aethetic appreciation of adding decoration
around the streamlined humps that accommodate the rockers on his
model I personally have issues with your suggestion.

I have a ΒΌ scale Mr Mulligan kit with a similarly configured cowl. As a result I
have been unable to do much more than open the box for fear of eventually needing
to produce a simple BACKGROUND finish around said humps.

Least said soonest mended.



old git - - - - - aka John L.

BHB3

My Feedback: (6)

and your point is?

Stickbuilder

John,

Benjamin is probably the best friend that I have in this world. We have been friends and enjoyed this hobby together for more than 40 years, and he is definately not a false friend. If Benny wants to see gold on the rocker blisters, then gold they will be. I never let a little work stand in the way of progress.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACOBrotherhood #1

bart5495

Bill: Where do you buy clear nitrate dope? My hobby shop only carries the Sig Butyrate dope.

Thanks

Doug