skylarkmk1

Bill,

The question arises, which YMF are you modeling, an original or a newer YMF Classic or Super? The originals had the tank hidden under the fabric (repairs were a little more complicated, no hokey plastic tank cover like the one Pica supplied), on the Classics/Supers the "tank covers" are actually the top part of the tanks and form the center section upper wing surface, with the center strip holding the tanks inplace (repairs are easier). Next question is how complicated do you want to make this plane? You already have quite a bit in this one with the adjustable stab, landing gear (hopefully soon), gas engine etc. Hows the pork factor looking? Just some thoughts you asked for.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

John Howard-- Looks like I'll probably be coming out to the '08 AWC Fly-In. My vacation request was approved, so I have that week off. I'm sending in my AWC membership renewal this week. I haven't decided on how I'll get out there yet; I'd like to bring the UMF for display (maybe they'll let us fly down at the lower end of the taxiway past the grass strips). Gas prices will probably dictate what I do.

Crashed the hell out of my Decathlon yesterday, came out of a loop and it would not level out, did a slow, nose down spiral straight down from 200 feet, didn't matter what I did, nothing worked, full up elevator had no effect. I checked the elevator servo, it worked fine after the crash. Smashed the entire front half of the fuse and crunched the outboard half of the wing L.E.'s. I think the engine is okay, but I'm sending it back just to be sure. Dang it.....[sm=cry_smile.gif]

Stickbuilder

John,

I'm thinking about the pork factor, and that using a tank in the wing should make the weight of the tank etc. weight neutral. I am having to move the servo's rearward to compensate for the weight of the engine. I can make the tank from 0.015 brass, and come out about 2 oz. more than a plastic tank. The C/G won't shift as I burn off the fuel though. Just thinking about it.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

skylarkmk1

Ken,

Good on the vacation, hope to see you then, I've also let my workplace know I'll be needing off at the same time.

Bad on the Decathlon, hope it is fixable. Sounds like you had a radio problem, but without seeing what happened, can't say for sure. Good Luck.

red1

Hi Guys,

Well...I finally have my basement workshop reorganized and ready for business. I pulled out my WACO YMF-3/5 plans ( 1/6th scale), and my OS61FX, and the instruction manual, and the 15 p. short manual from The House of Moy, and started cogitating. Now I've gotten myself into a quandry. Do I go ahead with the 1/6 scale kit or do I buy a set of 1/5 scale plans from AMA and go a bit larget (what...another 12" WS) ? I definitely want to build a 2-cockpit version and I'm not sure what issues this may raise in the fuse construction and the placement of things like batteries/receivers/etc. It would certainly require a different engine (or at least I think it would). Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

red 1 (aka Don Borton)
AMA IMAA
WACO Brotherhood #72

Stickbuilder

Don,

If you build really light (substitute all the call out's for balsa with 1/8" stock), then the .61 might fly the fifth scale version, but you will be at near full throttle at all times, and it will look kind of strange with the little prop on the nose. I think that if I wanted the larger version, I would go ahead with the larger engine (a good 4 stroke 120 is great), and enjoy the way that a larger plane flies.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Tony V.

Don,
You can build the 1/5 scale for the same amount of work. You would need a bigger motor though..It would look and fly better.

skylarkmk1

Don,

I was going to do the 1/6th version, but didn't have the templates and didn't want to mess with scaling and redrawing them from the HoM site, so I will be doing the 1/5th. I agree with Tony and Bill, same amount of work, just a little more material, a bigger engine (maybe gas, you can't fit one into the 1/6th yet) and a better flyer due to the larger size and easier to see. Down side is finding a place to store it, I have too many as it is.

WacoJoe

My plan as of right now is to be there as well. Weather will have something to say about when I get there and when I head home, but hopefully will be able to spend the weekend like last year. See you guys there. You have rides waiting!! (Any other WB members are welcome to come and get a ride as well!)

Cheers!

Joe

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Sounds like a winner! Are you flying down solo, or are you bringing your wife? I'd thought about hanging out at the end of the Oshkosh runway with my thumb out, and get a loooonnnnggg ride

Stickbuilder

Does a ride include getting some stick time as well??????? [8D]

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

I guess not. Man it sure gets quiet when you ask something like that.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

HIGHSTRUT

Back (way back) when I built a 1/5 scale Pica Waco, I powered it with a HB 61 engine, It had sufficient power to fly large loops. I now am finishing a 1/5 scale Pica Jungmeister powered with a OS .61 FX engine, and want an in cowl muffler (not loud),I have a Slimline on back order, and was wondering what else was available. I'm sure the Waco & Jungmeister cowls are the same size. Any advise will be considered.

Bob

HIGHSTRUT

Hopefully this is a picture of the cowl.

RICKSTUBBZ

Ken (Khodges)
The Decathlon crash “BITES”[:@]. No crash is good. But what I have seen of it on this thread that was a sweet bird. Not to mention relatively new. Have you been able to do any further investigation to confirm a possible cause. Engine mount, elevator hinges?? Are you using the Spread Spectrum radios?

Red1
I agree that you would enjoy the 1/5 scale bird more. Plus there is more help available here (this thread) with that size because more of the guys have built it compared to the 1/6. Things to consider other than storage, transportation, and engine, would be servos and/or radio equipment. If you go with gas the bigger plane would be less expensive to operate. But the bigger glow engines will use considerably more fuel than a 60 in the smaller bird.

Ron (lynchr)
I like your innovative idea using supplies on hand to create your aileron connecting rods. That should work out “right on”. Will look good when finished. Didn’t take much time to make nor did it bust the budget.

John (jplaneman)
20 bucks!!!! You stole that thing!! I look forward to your progress.

Bill (stickbuilder)
If you pull off a functional, problem free, scale location fuel tank--- I am going to have to drive down there to see that thing when you are finished. [8D] On a more serious note: question, Would you be using silver solder to “glue” up the seams of the tank? I have a feeling that back in the day you must have built a tank or two for control line planes.

Question for all
On the occasion I decide to reply to multiple people as I have just done. Do you prefer that I do so in one post such as this or should I do separate post for each “reply”. I’m still trying to learn “Forum Etiquette”. Had to use spell checker for that word!!!

jagnweiner

My Feedback: (1)

Works for me.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Rick, I still don't have a clue; I took all the usable pieces off the crunched area, took out the aileron servos and unbolted the engine off what's left of the firewall. I had thought to send it back to Fuji to see if they could get it running smoothly, I guess that's a sure thing now, to check for crash damage. I'm using 2.4GHz (Spektrum), so I think interference is out, ignition noise is out; I had a fully charged 1450 mAh battery, so power to the Rx is out, plus it worked fine after the crash. If anything, it may have been in a stall, but I don't see how. I was very high, over 300 feet, and put it into a large loop, in which I allowed it to stall and "fall through" at the top. I applied power as soon as the nose came over, and it was accelerating pointed straight down. Full elevator did nothing, and it did about a turn and a half (roll) straight into the ground. I am quite sure I had enough airspeed over the tail for control. It is probably rebuildable, but everything forward of the trailing edge will have to be built new, and the wing leading edges from half-span out to the tips are crunched. The landing gear, rear fuse and tail feathers, and most of the wing structure are almost perfect. Nothing in the radio/battery compartment (under the seats) was touched. I will, however, put the Rx through a very thorough test before using it in another plane.

As far as answering posts, just shout, "Hey, Y'all, looky heer", in your best Texas drawl. We're all listening in, anyway. Of course, individual posts will keep bumping us toward the 200 page mark even quicker.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Man, I'll bet you even asked your sub skipper to let you drive once. (That's where they got those pics of the sub coming up out of the water)

Joe, you better take the front stick out if the Master Chief gets in

Stickbuilder

Getcher Drivin' Britches on. I'm going for it. I won't be using silver solder on the tank, since it will be made of plain old tin and brass. I'll be using flux and 30/70 solder. I'll tin all the parts and sweat it together (just like I used to do on all the Ukie's, and some of my first R/C birds. I will be using my 160w iron to sweat the parts (I could use a torch and a heated iron just as well, but since Ben Franklin discovered electricity.....[:@]). I do need to put some stress creases in the tank parts so I don't get a bunch of, "Oil canning", of the parts. I will make the fills from tire valves (only the metal part) soldered into the tank, and will have goose-neck vents. I'll probably make 2 fuel dump tubes, and connect them to a Y in the fuselage. It will be a simple matter to defuel the tank when finished flying, and the dumps will disconnect using neoperene tubing at the cabanes. Metal tubing down the cabanes and into the fuselage. I may end up building another Vertical Stab and rudder, converting it into a Classic. Since I used a thicker firewall, mine is a tad longer than the plan, so that part would be correct (more or less).

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RICKSTUBBZ

So, thats were those pics came from. Bill, a sub Won’t fly!!

skylarkmk1

Bill,

The YMF Classics by WCA were built from the original 1935 plans and have the straight rudder, The Supers have the balanced rudder.

Ken, Back on page 188, post 4698 where you posted the picture of ARE, NC 20953, (the NY News Plane) did you notice that the plane in the background was Jerry Browns UPF, NC 39727 from the Fly In.

Rick S, Your method of posting multiple answers/questions works just fine. I sent you an e-mail.

aminiet

John.

What is the closest airport served by the airlines to the AWC event, and what is the physical adress so I can look it up. This is the 3rd week end in June. Right?
I think I'll start making reservations now before the place gets all fill up.

Angel
B 58

Stickbuilder

We did a surface broach once for the cameras. When we, "Landed", we got the depth stopped at about 500 feet. You don't just flop twelve thousand tons on top of the water and have it sit there. The way that you do it is to hit flank speed (WFO) at about 400 feet, and haul back on the planes, all the while blowing the forward ballast tanks. It's a helluva ride, but not one that you would want to do every day.

The way to surface is to sneak up on it, very quietly, and then start a low pressure blow. Kinda keeps the bad guys from knowing you are there. In the surface broach, every thing and every one for miles knows that you are there. Kinda like trying to hide an elephant in your pocket.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Oh, one other thing.....Yeah, everyone has to learn to drive the boat. In fact you have to be qualified to stand every watch on the boat in order to be qualified in Submarines, as well as knowing and proving that you know how to rig every compartment for every condition. And then you have to do a walk-through every compartment and stand every man's watch with the Qualification Officer. It's tough, but then again, no one asked you to do it. It's all volunteer. That's how you get your Dolphins. But kind of like everyone in the Army now wears the Beret', when that used to be the badge of the special forces, or other special operations groups, Uncle Sam's Canoe Club, now gives something that kind of looks like the Dolphins to even the Surface Skimmers. Kind of cheapens the whole thing. Course, you can't harm the poor little kid's sensibilities. It might warp them in some way. Bah!!!!!!!!

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

krusstygun

any one ever think of putting one on floats? i have a dave platt ymf 3 that i have framed up so far .
i was also wondering what engine would you recommed straping onto this 1\5 scale plane
i did some searching and found that they first used edo floats on this bipe