WacoNut

Congrats Brother
I just checked the link and it says it was sold
Anthony

rtparr

John--could you or someone else on the forum who reads this tell me where I can purchase a cockpit kit for a 1/6 Dave Platt Waco I am finishing? Thanks in advance. Dick

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

How 'bout an RCS 150? You got a deal on the plane, let you spend a bit more on the engine

skylarkmk1

Dick,

I don't know of any cockpit kits for the Wacos (cabin or open cockpit) in any size. There was a detail sheet included with some of the Pica YMF kits that gives simple drawings to construct a complete rear cockpit and I have matching photos, a list of instruments using the ProPagTeam instruments. This is for the original 1930s style Oval type instrument panel and non-upolstered cockpit, NOT the three section panel used on the new YMFs. I posted the detail sheet info and photos a while back and also have the same info on CD1 - Waco YMF. If you would PM me with your email address and I can give more info on the CD or check the listing on page 212, post 5281.

vfalcon7

Hello, How much is too much for a Kit?

skylarkmk1

vfalcon7,

Bill did a cost estimate for plans built 1/5th YMF a while back and has more experience in obtaining the kits, so I think Bill has the best handle on what a kit is worth.

The plans for the 1/5th Pica YMF are $50 plus shipping from the AMA (plan # 35406 and ask for the template sheets), the manuals (both long and short in PDF) are free when downloaded from the House of Moy site http://www.houseofmoy.com/waco/ and then there is the cost of the wood to make your own kit. As this thread has progressed, some changes have been developed to improve the kit in flying, engine selection and mounting and in scale appearence. The short manual has these included so be sure to look them over as some parts in the kit are replaced or eliminated with new ones.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Vfalcon7, which kit are you asking about?

And KEN!!! RCS 150??? I didn't think it was THAT big or heavy! Who knows, maybe it is! Everybody else is talking about 50 size gassers, which I automatically know are nowhere near big enough. 80-100 minimum. No, the RCS 150 is nice but too pricey for me at this time, while rebuilding my whole hanger of planes and still doing everything else I usually do. I was thinking about that Twin 100 that cubnut was talking about for the Bulldog build, but I think it's too wide by part of an inch. I dont know what the cowl on the Pepino is, but my math shows it should be about 10.5 inches, and I think that 100 Twin is about 11. Of course!

Jim

RICKSTUBBZ

Jim Henley,
Before I write my suggestions, I want to say my experience is based from 40 to 60 size planes. So, take it for what it's worth. In moving your CG rearward or tail heavy direction I would go in small increments. Say 1/8" at a time. Max would be 1/4" if you feel it was really heavy in the front. I don't remember if you mentioned how much up trim you needed to maintain level flight.
I say this because: back in my day of training people to fly, I ran across a couple of tail heavy birds. (I did manage to get them on the ground in one peice, BUUTT it was crazy). I have also experimented with this as well for stunts. Anyway, as we know, a nose heavy plane will fly predictable. Some airplanes become very unprdeictable if you get just a little too much weight in the tail.
I also have a PDF file I downloaded from the IMAC site that discusses trimming an airplane. I tried to attach it here but the pdf format is not compatable with this thread set-up. I will try to PM it to you. If that doesn't work you can PM me with your email address and I'll send it to you. Or you could always go looking around on IMAC site and find it.

RICKSTUBBZ

Here is a link to the trimming chart I mentioned in the previous post. www.nsrca.org/trimA.htm

WacoNut

Jim,
Here is the engine recommendations right from the Pepino plans. Supertigre 2500/ Quadra 35-40. With the newer 50cc dispalcement eniges available now that are actually a little lighter than the old quadra's I would think a 50cc will haul the plane around pretty good. By looking at the wing structure on the Pepino plans I wouldn't over power this bird or you may pay for it in the end. I am going to make my flying wires fully functional to help strengthen the wings a bit. A couple of the guys are putting G-62's in their planes but from what I have read alot of the 50cc engines are actually putting out more power than the G-62.
After looking at how much I would have to butcher the cowl with the twin I am going to stick with a single cylinder 50cc.
Later!!
Anthony

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Anthony,

That new 50CC that you had found is a real deal, I have to admit that. It includes the muffler and all, from what I can tell. I contacted them and they told me that the weight they list is the weight including the muffler. So, now all I have to do is see how the YMF balances out once I get her refurbished. I'm still going to check all around the forums and see what the scaled-out heavy ones are using to pull them around. I've got plenty of time to figure that out. Probably the first thing I should do is figure out how I can get out to John's house ASAP and get her!

Jim

Jim Henley

Rick,
I got the chart and sent you a PM

Stickbuilder

Which Kit are you talking about? The 1/6th or the 1/5th scale? Are you talking about the die-crunched kit, or the 1/6th lazer cut kit? If you are talking about the 1/5th scale kit, are you talking about the one with the blue and yellow plane on the box, or the white and red plane?

At any rate, with the 1/5th scale kit, I would think that somewhere around $250.00 would now be tops, since you can replicate the kit for less than that, but you still would need to buy the cowl and wheel pants. The availability of the buildable from plans model, should have lowered the value of one of the hoarded kits.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Jim Henley

For any that are building the 1/5 or 1/6 with the upright engine, thought you may be interested in the muffler I located for mine.
This piece was custom built by Steve at R/C Creative Hobbies, in Texas City TX. Steve built this over the Christmas holiday from a couple of rough measurments and a couple of photos. Steve knew the balast issue I have with this airplane, so he made this one10 oz. It has quite a bit more volume that the one I built did, and I am looking forward to getting the Saito fired up to see how this one is going to work. Steve left the exhaust tubes long, so I can shorten them to fit my application.

airplanegeek

we finally got dad's cub in the air - here is the maiden. its been quite a long restoration/learning process (even for a professional mechanic).

I havent flown her yet but reports are all thumbs up!

geek

Thomas B

My Feedback: (4)

Got another flight in this afternoon on the Cox/Pica 1/5 Waco with the very quiet oil free power system...

Much better conditions today...light cross wind. Flew for about 10-12 minutes and shot at least a dozen touch and goes or full stop landings.

I had thought about adding some triangle stock the the landing gear trunions, as they did not look well glued.

After I taxied back in and took the lower hatch off, the front trunion was complely free in the airplane and the back one was almost free......will certainly do some epoxying now! The lower hatch and it's hatch latches is the only thing that kept the landing gear from falling out...

I will try to get my digital camera issues fixed and post some pictures.

On a side note, I am glad that that 1/4 scale Waco for 400 bucks found a good home in the Waco Brotherhood!

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Thanks to you, Thomas! Thank you for the heads-up on that! I can hardly stand the wait! Funny, I was wondering how electric would work in a big ol' scale maiden like that one, but it probably isn't an option.

Jim

WacoNut

Very Nice!!!
I have 4 hours of stick time in a J-3, very nice planes for pleasure flying.
Anthony

vfalcon7

Thanks Bill and everyone that answered.

Thomas B

My Feedback: (4)

These days, you can do anything electric....but when you get to the 30 lbs or so level, it gets pretty expensive.

I was glad you can now do the 1/5 Waco YMF for a total power system cost of a little over 500 bucks.

rtparr

John--thanks for your quick reply on the cockpit kit. Was hoping to find one but will take your word that there aren't any available for the 1/6th scale. Checked your post on page 212, CD-1. I got it about 3/4 done clear back in 1977 while I was a lecturer at the University of Tromso in northern Norway. It's languised in my attic in Oregon ever since, until about a month ago when I gave it to a friend to finish right before coming over. I never thought to check the plans before I left to see if the instrument panel was depicted on the drawings. I just assumed I could buy a scale cockpit kit for it and send it to the person finishing the kit. Send me your address and I will send you a check on my Oregon bank for a copy of CD-1 that I can give to the builder, if that's all right with you. Will $15 cover the cost of sending it here to Norway? Dick

skylarkmk1

Dick,

Sent you a PM. The detail sheets were apparently seperate pages (8.5 x 11) inserted into the kit and not all kits had them as I understand it. The detail sheets were scanned in and then each sheet was broken down into the individual details like the side walls, instrument panel, rudder pedals, seat ect. In a seperate folder are the photos I have taken that match what is on the detail sheets (as close as possible). It will be fairly simple to do the cockpit one section at a time, the side walls, seat, instrument panel, floor with pedals etc. Plastic tubing from the model train dept will simulate the steel framwork, some veneer for the instrument panel (Rockler Woodworking has a 2" x 8' strip in various woods for less than $3), roof flash for the seat frame, and some imagination will "get 'er done".

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Just my two cents worth of "Scale Detail Expertise". This works great for seats that are supposed to look like leather. If you've seen that super lightweight modeler's foam that comes in tannish-brown sheets, that stuff works GREAT for actually carving out nice puffy-looking leather seat cushions for the seat and the backrest that weigh next to nothing. It carves so easily that all you need to do is use sandpaper to rub it down to size, and then use lighter sandpaper to finish the smoothness for a scale leather look. Then (important for aging) I decide where the seat would show wear, and I drag an X-Acto knife tip thrugh that spot a few times to look like leather crinkles from bending and wear. What I do then is simply wet THE WHOLE PIECE with thin CA glue to harden it where it is, and If you want to add real piping to the cusion, use a tight-weave string attached with glue, you'll have to decide what thickness of string looks right for your Scale size. I use whatever Semi-Gloss spraypaint to match the seat colors. Afterward, take some dark paint and rub across the "cracking" area and around the piping and wipe away the excess. If this dulls your original paint, a quick light spray-over will gloss it back up and still leave the "cracking" area visible. When you've got them done, they glue in easily. Make sure the back has had some thin CA soaked into it. A touch of thick CA will stick to that like crazy. Flat shoelaces make GREAT seatbelts. Wide camera straps make good larger seatbelts. A hot blade will cut real car seatbelts down thin but they tend to be fairly heavy. Hope this helps!

Oh yes, I almost forgot. Clip-down ladies watch-band fasteners make GREAT scale seatbelt releases! the whole watch costs about 7 bucks at Wally-World. Make sure you tell your wife what you are going to buy. Saves on lawyers when she sees it later!

Jim

WacoNut

Hi Guys,
I am redrawing the wing ribs for my Pepino Waco, the top center section was not that big of an issue to fix but I am very curious about the bottom wing center section. On the plans it shows the rib tapers down drastically from the top at the trailing edge. I do not have any Photo's to support that. Is the bottom center section on the Pica Waco correct?? I do have a copy of the Pica plans that I can copy the shape but I do not want to duplicate an error. After looking at the Pica plans they are the opposite of the Pepino plans so I believe my suspicion is correct and the Pepino plans are incorrect in this aspect. Can someone please verify this for me before I start cutting wood.
Thanks!!
Anthony
btw, all the wing ribs on the Pepino Waco are supposed to have the same spar spaceing. None of the rib drawings matched each other. I had to take the full rib template and make a mylar trace and use that as a template for redrawing all the ribs. I will scan these ribs that I have drawn and I will give them to anyone that wants them to save them the trouble that I am going through.

Stickbuilder

Anthony,

The Pica Waco is 100% as far as scale outline goes. The Lower and upper wing center sections appear to be correct in profile. I have heard that the Pepino quarter scale had some outline and wing profile issues, but never having built one, I can't say for sure.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1