Stickbuilder

If you are talking about using piano hinges, then simply inlet the top of the trailing edge strip by the thickness of the hinge. Just use your Zona saw to scribe the trailing edge strip at the ends of the hinge line. Then use your razor plane to remove the material. The plane will stop when it gets to the kerf line that the saw cut.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

WacoDream

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Bill,

This is the style hinge I'm using. Your post was a little confusing to me, the word inlet throws me off.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/dub/dub...FQ8GnQodEzkAfg

Chuck

WacoDream

Motor installed and Battery Hatch started.

I picked up a great resource for Waco reference photos from flying scale models. Lots of good close up photos of the aircraft. Came to California in about a week from UK.

Also found this reference. I may get that too. Looks good

Having fun getting to know this airplane!

Stickbuilder

NEW BROTHER ALERT !!!

Welcome Mike (WacoDream) you are Brother #235.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

Stickbuilder

I posted this somewhere (long time ago) that I use a Dremel cut off wheel and cut a series of slots in the back side of a #11 Xacto knife blade. This allows the blade to become a saw blade of sorts. Mark your trailing edge of the wing and the leading edge of your aileron or other control surface and then insert the blade with the notches facing in the direction that you want to slot. Works like a champ. I thought you were talking about scale hinges, thus the previous post. Inletting is to remove a certain amount of material so that another part fits without leaving a dip or a high spot.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

LesUyeda

"What is the trick to accurately cutting the slots for flats hinges on the ailerons? "

I use an "x-axcto (I think made by x-acto) blade, that is about 1/2 to 5/8 wide, .020 thick, and shaped like an inverted snow plow; points on the outiside of the flat, inverted v on the inside. Push it through the balsa; it removed a chunk just about right for hinges.

Les

Jaybird

I use the Great Planes "Slot Machine" which is an electric powered tool with two toothed blades that slide back and forth. It comes with blade sets that are made to match the different thickness nylon hinges like you are using. I usually don't use the CA hinges that come with some kits and ARFs and you can use this tool to open up existing sliced CA hinge slots or make new ones.

Ref. http://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmr4010.html

Jaybird

LesUyeda

I use the Great Planes "Slot Machine"

I tried one of those once, when they first came out. Tried it once, and promptly gave it to one of my sons. The vibration was so bad, it was impossible to control. Maybe they have that fixed by now.

Les

Jaybird

The adjustable slot cutting guide is big help in controlling it. It does take some getting used to and if I havn't operated it in a while a make a couple of practice cuts on scrap balsa. It can bite and jump if you aren't careful, but once you get the hang of it it's really fast and consistent in my opinion.

Not for everybody of course and it has limitations especially in tight corners.

Jaybird

rccrasher65

My Feedback: (35)

I use mine all the time, just need to get used to it, and practice makes perfect, can cut all my slots accurately in about 10 min. It's like all tools, you have to practice with them before you master them. B ig time saver.

WacoDream

I finished the first landing light on the Waco last night. Wiring was tricky with the covering already applied. I was able to run the wire through the ribs using the servo lead string. With an additional small hole drilled – I routed the wire to the leading edge then made the light boxes.

Soldering the magnetic wire has proven a challenge as the enamel coating needs to be stripped and the wire is 'hair thin' 32 gauge (for light weight). I ordered some connectors today to make it easier to connect the LCDs and the controller.

I should get up to 8 hours of operation for the lights with my 1500 mAh 6.0v receiver pack - which is plenty for a days worth of flying. The lights 'all in' are less than a single servo in terms of amp draw and should be pretty on the plane - especially for twilight or early morning flights. About 2oz added weight for lights and hardware but it should look nice. Excited to see them working soon

lashbuick

lashbuick what number am I? In the Pica Waco Brotherhood? Thanks. Anyone have any Cowl parts for a 1/5 Pica Waco? Need a blister and some cowl parts, would be able to repair mine. Unemployed at present. Every little bit helps. Thanks for everyones Help. Daniel L.

Stickbuilder

lashbuick,

You are Waco Brother #234. It is not just in the Pica Waco Brotherhood, but the Waco Brotherhood.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

Dash7ATP

Hi guys,

It's about time for an update. Several weeks ago I received my castings for the Jacobs engine from Rich over on the Bobcat T-50 (Bamboo bomber) build thread. When I saw the fantastic work he was doing, I sent him a PM and some photos of my build and he replied. After some discussion, he told me when I was ready for an engine, to let him know. Well, I did , and he replied with a set of his castings for the Jacobs. He modified a Williams Bros cylinder and turned and made up the forms and molds for the crankcase and gear case. Using his photos and some shots Ihave found of the Jacobs, I now have a good looking dummy engine in my Waco. A few photos follow.

I am in the process of doing an assembly of the model tonight so Ican suspend it for a CGcheck. I'll post a few more of the assembled model in a few days. Oh, it will weigh a little more and 1.6 oz, but Ifigured I would probably need some nose weight anyway, so let's see where Iend up with that.

The link to the BobCat site is below and you are looking for posts from rhsmrt50, or Rich. His engine shots are on page 30, plus or minus a few.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#11455842

Here are a few shots of my engine and cowl. (Ihope).

More to come,

Joe

rc_wings

Is it just me or is anyone else experiencing some problems displaying pictures on RCU?

Dash7ATP

It's not you. All Iget on the earlier post I did was just four boxes where the photos should be. It's not just this site.

Joe

Dash7ATP

Ok, let's try just one photo........

Joe

mikedj

My Feedback: (5)

No joy here, either.  I tried multiple browsers and multiple machines, Images for post #16095 and 16098, among others, are not showing up.  Images in other posts, like post #16092, show up fine, but I note that those are remotely hosted images, not attachments.

Mike

rc_wings

OK thanks. Hopefully RCU resolves this soon as it seems to have been a problem for over a week now.

shaked israel

waco ymf 33% amr befor cover and paint 

WacoDream

Beautiful build!  Nice work - and great filming too.  I really enjoyed the video

mikedj

My Feedback: (5)

Nice, very nice.

Mike

Dash7ATP

Hi folks,

Way back in this forum there is a discussion on where the CGshould be on the Pica 1/5 scale model, as apparently the location on the plans are not correct. I seem to remember someone (Bill?) saying that you level the model and measure the distance from the top wing LE to the bottom wing TE as projected to the table surface, and consider this as the total MAC. Then measure back from the top wing LE about 25% of that total MAC. Does this sound about right. This seems to agree with some of the methods I have discovered in a quick search tonight. My only concern is the difference in the areas of the two wings, as the bottom is much smaller.

Comments welcome, along with what works for you if you have one flying.

Thanks,

Joe

WacoNut

Shaked she looks really nice.

Did you glass the aileron's before adding the corrugation strips? It looks like you may have but hard to tell.

Have fun with the covering, paint and details.
Anthony