Dash7ATP

I wish I had gone with Solartex. I used Koverall, with dope and a water based poly over that (clear). I ended up using KlasKote for the final color paint. Mine is Red and Cream and there are quite a few photos way oack on line here. My biggest disappointment was I didn't use enough base coat paint to make it opaque, so you can see through the framework if the sun's behind it. I think ??? the was to avoid tht would be to start with silver Solartex for an opaque finish. After all, it is usually done on the full scale for UV protection.


The photos below are how I finally finished up on my N-Strute attachment arrangement. The brass parts are attached to structure in the wing. The struts are ath streamline tubing from K & S (I know, it's not a scale section). A brass strip wraps around a piece of 1/8"ID tubing and is epoxied to a piece of fitted wood that fits into the K & S> A 2-56 socket head screw holds it all together. So far, so good. Except it's a pain to assemble at the field, I was worried about losing the very small 2-56 nuts, so I first epoxied them to the brass with JB Weld. That held well and I didn't risk losing the nut. but I still had to fiddle with the small screw and I could still easily drop one while trying to fit the N-strut in place. The solution, which I have just finished, was to also glue a 2-56 nut to the outside on the socket head side. Now, I can back out the screw until the strut tube will fit between the brass fittings and the outside nut will hold it in place.

The photos show the fittings on the bottom of the top wing. One has the screw all the way in , and the other, it is out far enough to allow the strut end to fit into place.

I know that this will not help everyone, but if it saves me fifteen minutes every time I go out to fly, it will be worth it.

Dash7ATP

I wish I had gone with Solartex. I used Koverall, with dope and a water based poly over that (clear). I ended up using KlasKote for the final color paint. Mine is Red and Cream and there are quite a few photos way back on line here. My biggest disappointment was I didn't use enough base coat paint to make it opaque, so you can see through the framework if the sun's behind it. I think ??? the was to avoid that would be to start with silver Solartex for an opaque finish. After all, it is usually done on the full scale for UV protection.


The photos below are how I finally finished up on my N-Strut attachment arrangement. The brass parts are attached to structure in the wing. The struts are the streamline tubing from K & S (I know, it's not a scale section). A brass strip wraps around a piece of 1/8"ID tubing and is epoxied to a piece of fitted wood that fits into the K & S. A 2-56 socket head screw holds it all together. So far, so good. Except it's a pain to assemble at the field, I was worried about losing the very small 2-56 nuts Nylock nuts, so I first epoxied them to the brass with JB Weld. That held well and I didn't risk losing the nut. but I still had to fiddle with the small screw and I could still easily drop one while trying to fit the N-strut in place. The solution, which I have just finished, was to also glue a 2-56 locknut to the outside on the socket head side. Now, I can back out the screw and the locknut will hold it place. Just fit the strut into place and screw in the 2-56 screw.

The photos show the fittings on the bottom of the top wing. One has the screw all the way in , and in the other, it is out far enough to allow the strut end to fit into place. The flying wire ends are the "forks" from Mick Reeves in the UK. Very neat.

I know that this will not help everyone, but if it saves me fifteen minutes every time I go out to fly, it will be worth it.

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Cowboy,
I'm with Dan's & Jim's opinion of Solartex I have been using it for the last 20 years,actually its the only covering that I use.

George
WACO Brotherhood # 5

cowboyharry

Did you paint the Natural Solartex (which is unpainted) or did you apply a trim color over one of the pre-colored Solartex fabrics?
I was told by the re-seller that it's not recommended to paint any one of these except the Natural, but I have no experience with this material.
I would prefer to cover the plane with a pre-colored fabric and then just spray on the trim color as needed.

Also, I assume the Krylon is glow fuel proof...

Thanks for all of the good advice, I think I should have been asking question here a long time ago!
But then again, I didn't feel like I was stuck until now; I'm really out of my comfort zone since I've never used a fabric covering before.

Jim Henley

Cowboy, Solar-tex colored or natural needs paint to seal the material. You can use a clear coat to seal the covering. While Solar-tex is fuel proof, if not sealed, it gets real dirty real quick. I have not had any issues where I have painted colored Solar-tex. The Silver however will show through your paint especially yellow. If you use silver, you will need to spray white over it, especially if you use yellow. Hope this helps.

Stickbuilder

Best I can remember, it was 7/32". I was able to slightly flatten it into an oval shape and still fit it onto the cabane wire, so it probably was 1/4". Clean the snot out of the wire and I coated both parts with silver solder flux, that's the white stuff, and when the temperature is just right, the solder will grab completely. I cut fish mouths in the diagonals and silver soldered them as well. The bungs were sweated in as well. Look at the pictures and you can see how I did it. A small rat tail mill file works great to get the final shape.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

RCplanman

My Feedback: (16)

Cowboy, Solar Tex/World Tex are the greatest covering But I don't think they are glow fuel proof. I just use a top coat of T F clear
or use Rust olum. I think Krylon has a much better nozzle. I M O.
Bill

stevegauth30

It's probably not exactly to scale, but for me, I'm happy with how it came out. Much better than the first attempt. Everything is soldered and JB welded for added security. I still need to clean up the welds a bit, but it looks ok. I'll be starting on the wings today . I'm a bit surprised that I just placed another wood order on Thursday and it's scheduled for delivery today. I'm very happy with the quality and service from balsawoodinc.com. Especially thr prices. The only thing I don't like is that they don't carry 5/32 sheeting and when I called to inquire about it, all the guy said was "NOPE" just like that, kind of snotty like. Oh well.

stevegauth30

I had the pleasure of meeting George, AKA Ctflyboy, AKA, waco brother #5. What an awesomely nice guy he is, and a hell of a builder at that. It just so happens that he has a heck of a collection of Waco photos, all the important close ups. I'm quite glad I went to meet you George.thanks.

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Steve,
Vary nice work looks much better then the wood. What engine are you using I see your using glow fuel tubing.

stevegauth30

Thanks Dan, if all goes well, il be mounting an OS 160 twin up front.

stevegauth30

Did they make any of the YMF-5's with a single cockpit? I kind of like the looks of the single place, but want to model it after a YMF-5 classic. I can't seem to find any. Maybe I should just make it a two place.

skylarkmk1

Steve,

I believe they only made/make dual cockpits. The front cockpit can be covered with a metal cover (either 2 piece or hinged to fold) or a "canvas" snap on cover and the front windshield can be removed and folded to store (hinges are part of the frame). The single piece wind shields are also removable and are just a little harder to store.

stevegauth30

Thanks john. Looks like a dual cockpit it is then.

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Steve,
I just took a piece of vinyl glued some string under it for the effect and screwed it down. It worked out good I liked the way it looks.

acerc

I made a fiberglass sheet, glued half stringers on the top, stitched the perimeter. A dowel to hold the frony with a magnet on the rear. Makes for quick and easy access to the electronics.

WacoNut

Steve,
Glad you like the quality and the price of the wood. Always makes me a bit nervous recommending a source as you never know.
Later!!
Anthony

stevegauth30

Why Anthony? Was that you that recommended them to me? I couldn't remember who it was. The prices are awesome, and the quality is quite good. Maybe a bit hard, but still good. For an extra 30% they can hand pick a certain density for you! but for me! it's not that big of a deal. The delivery time is outstanding. From the time I placed the order, to the time fedex signed for it, one hour. I've never seen that before. Probably just that I ordered just before the fedex went out.

WacoNut

Yeah it was me over on Robert's thread.

Good to see that are still shipping nice wood.
Later!!
Anthony

stevegauth30

Yeps, other than the rude guy on the phone, you won't hear any complaints from me. Especially at almost half the price of every where else.thanks.

stevegauth30

Can anyone tell me if all four wing tips are the same? Meaning top and bottom? It looks like they are, I just want to be sure.

stevegauth30

Also, where are you checking the incidence of the lower wing. Tight to the fuse? Or out where the TE flattens out?

stevegauth30

Are these tips true to scale? Is the angle supposed to be that sharp? I only have one, but if I could use it as a reference..... It's what came with the kit.

stevegauth30

So, I've decided to model mine after N88JP. I really like the colors and the silver on the blisters.

skylarkmk1

Steve,

Go to page 333 Post 8313 onward. You will find all your answers there and Dan may have more up to date templates for the ribs. No, that piece of junk is for some sort of a sport plane not a scale Waco