axe cp thread
#501
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From: Colorado Springs,
CO
ORIGINAL: BoysToys
chaseman81-- Thanks for the How-To. Question, What is the blowdryer for? What part should I heat up? Thanks!
chaseman81-- Thanks for the How-To. Question, What is the blowdryer for? What part should I heat up? Thanks!
#502
i'm probably gonna buy the axe cp sometime this week and i just have some questions, this is going to be my first heli,
1-what are some of the parts most likely to break in a crash, (i just want to order a couple extra of the things that will probably break)
2-will i probably want to upgrade power, if so then i'll just upgrade from the start
3-how accurate is rf g3.5 to the real thing, although i have had poeple tell me it's harder in real life i am just looking for some second opinions
4-how long do stock batteries last, as in flight time
thanks, Austin
1-what are some of the parts most likely to break in a crash, (i just want to order a couple extra of the things that will probably break)
2-will i probably want to upgrade power, if so then i'll just upgrade from the start
3-how accurate is rf g3.5 to the real thing, although i have had poeple tell me it's harder in real life i am just looking for some second opinions
4-how long do stock batteries last, as in flight time
thanks, Austin
#503
Just blow dry the gear area and the shaft bottom both for taking it off and putting it back on. no need to take apart any of the rotor head or even remove the shaft. If you just snap off the ball links no re-adjusting either. do remove the blades though.
#504
get some extras blade grips,blades, the stock batt is junk 5 min max flight time get a lipo 11.1v 1320 mah about 15 min flight time. I don't have the sim so I can't say. The only thing that makes real life harder is no reset button and you have to fix your crashes with parts money and time. My axe is all stock except the batt it's a great little $200 heli.
The main thing is to go slow and do your pre-flight checks on any heli. Practice practice practice!
Chaseman81
The main thing is to go slow and do your pre-flight checks on any heli. Practice practice practice!
Chaseman81
#507
No need till it happens (tail engine) mine has been fine the whole heli has been fine except for my mistakes and it handled them well too. Tough Bird!!
#508
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From: lindenhurst,
NY
Can I use a Blade CP tail rotor on the Axe. I think the hobby shop near me has blade replacements but noit axe replacements. Because tower messed up now I can't fly till like thursday.
#509
Thin air is the question here. I live at @9,000 ft. Is that why it's more stable and reacts better to my controlls in idle up mode(because of more head speed)? I've been getting closer and closer to hovering since I kinda figured out how to use the switch. Just got 2 tp1320's and hs-55's all around. Servo linkage seems a little stiffer now to swash plate.Should it? I have crahshed more than a few times, but still keep trying. No LHS around here, so I have to make the 1.5 hr. drive to Denver to stock up once a month or so. I have already used so many of the tricks and tips from this forum, so keep them coming. Thanks.
#512
Chaging the main gear ison page 20 in this forum #499 one more thing loosen one side of the motor to push it away from the main gear to re mesh use a small peice of paper run it between the pinion and the main gear. when the paper comes out it should look like a riffles potato chip
It should go throught real easy but have ridges in it both sides.
the alt might have something to do with it being easier to fly in thin air on idle up (max head speed) But also the throtle only effects the pitch of the rotor blades in idle up the motor is running at max +/- pitch in more degrees also. if you undo one motor wire from the main engine and the tail engine you can hit idle up and watch your blades pitch change. that is why at zero position on the throtle stick and you hit idle up the heli wants to suck itself to the ground at max engine speed (if it where inverted same as above zero on left stick) it would shoot up in the air really fast as you increase the stick position up the pitch chages and the heli will decend inverted. (DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME KID'S) WITH THE WIRES PLUGGED IN.
hOPE MY RAMBLING HELPED WITH IDLE-UP
Chaseman81
It should go throught real easy but have ridges in it both sides.
the alt might have something to do with it being easier to fly in thin air on idle up (max head speed) But also the throtle only effects the pitch of the rotor blades in idle up the motor is running at max +/- pitch in more degrees also. if you undo one motor wire from the main engine and the tail engine you can hit idle up and watch your blades pitch change. that is why at zero position on the throtle stick and you hit idle up the heli wants to suck itself to the ground at max engine speed (if it where inverted same as above zero on left stick) it would shoot up in the air really fast as you increase the stick position up the pitch chages and the heli will decend inverted. (DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME KID'S) WITH THE WIRES PLUGGED IN.
hOPE MY RAMBLING HELPED WITH IDLE-UP
Chaseman81
#513
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From: Bakersfield,
CA
Well my LHS had everything I needed except for the tail motor mount, it had to be ordered I got the rotor head all fixed up with a new main rotor gear and blade grips. I also replaced the tail boom. The tail motor mount should be in on Tuesday so I should be back in the air Tuesday night. Thanks for all the pointers on how to replace the main rotor gear. It actually was not that bad of a project. Have fun flying!!
#514
Hey Boystoys,
Glad I could help on the main gear. On the tail motor mount I had to cut mine lose after it broke. couldn't get the little screws out. So I took my lexan sicssor and cut it away then I could get the screws out very very small heads on them. Hey on the main gear did you do the paper test on the mesh of the pinion and the main. it's a good idea to do that for proper mesh. same on the tail gear and motor mesh.
Batt is charged and it's (time for me to fly)
Chaseman81
Practicing side in hovering got right down pat working on left, soon nose in. Have not been using training gear either. Read radds good stuff. I took off TG 2nd day and have'nt looked back, just trying to take my time though.
Glad I could help on the main gear. On the tail motor mount I had to cut mine lose after it broke. couldn't get the little screws out. So I took my lexan sicssor and cut it away then I could get the screws out very very small heads on them. Hey on the main gear did you do the paper test on the mesh of the pinion and the main. it's a good idea to do that for proper mesh. same on the tail gear and motor mesh.
Batt is charged and it's (time for me to fly)
Chaseman81
Practicing side in hovering got right down pat working on left, soon nose in. Have not been using training gear either. Read radds good stuff. I took off TG 2nd day and have'nt looked back, just trying to take my time though.
#515
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From: Bakersfield,
CA
Yes I did the paper trick when setting the mesh between the pinion and the main gear. I learned that trick long ago when working on my RC trucks. Have fun flying.
I could not wait until Tuesday to fly again, so I CA glued the tail motor mount back together. I clamped it while drying and it has worked great. I was able to hover 1 full pack out in my front yard today. I will only use it until my new one arrives on Tuesday. I was very surprised that after all of the broken parts I replaced it lifted off and hovered right away! Hopefully the weather will cooperate and I can make it to a park tomorrow.
I could not wait until Tuesday to fly again, so I CA glued the tail motor mount back together. I clamped it while drying and it has worked great. I was able to hover 1 full pack out in my front yard today. I will only use it until my new one arrives on Tuesday. I was very surprised that after all of the broken parts I replaced it lifted off and hovered right away! Hopefully the weather will cooperate and I can make it to a park tomorrow.
#516
Man, i'm jones`n ta fly.
For the last few day's my left index finger has been wrapped in a big ol bandage.
I basicly degloved the tip; got too close to the a/c belt on my 4runner the other day.
It took forever just to type this short message, lol.
Damn, trying to type with only 3 left fingers is like trying to learn how to fly a heli.
For the last few day's my left index finger has been wrapped in a big ol bandage.
I basicly degloved the tip; got too close to the a/c belt on my 4runner the other day.
It took forever just to type this short message, lol.
Damn, trying to type with only 3 left fingers is like trying to learn how to fly a heli.
#517
ORIGINAL: AirforceRcks
just a side note.
i broke the rear motor mount and its a b$%%& to get it back cause u gotta solder the motor back on and i aint no good with a soldering iron.
just a side note.
i broke the rear motor mount and its a b$%%& to get it back cause u gotta solder the motor back on and i aint no good with a soldering iron.
I can help you there! Firstly, almost any soldering iron will do - even the cheapo $5 jobs. The big nOOB problem with soldering is they don't TIN. Tin in this case is a verb. You must TIN the wires to be connected FIRST. The tip must be hot, clean and shiny - use a small wet cotton rag or those cheapo sponges to wipe the tip - and apply the solder to the tip - and wipe again - to get it shiny with some fresh solder on there - then touch it to one of the wires and immediately apply a bit more solder. If the wire is clean, it should soak up some shiny liquid solder. Pull back and see if it cools shiny. Don't use too much solder. Now do this to the other wire.
THEN, get a 'helper' like a spray can cap with notches cut in it to hold the wires together for you while you solder. A Helping Hands alligator clip with arms thing is invaluable for this. Most come with a magnifier too. Get a friend to hold the wires (with pliers or tweezer, because it will get hot!) if needed.
When the wires are being held together for you (and your heat shrink tubing is in place, somewhere away from the heat) come at the connection with a hot shiny soldering tip with a little fresh solder and then immediately apply a little fresh solder then pull back.
Any two TINNED wires should be easy to connect. It gets trickier if the wires are not clean shiny copper, but you still must TIN.
#519
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From: , SC
Could someone help me. I am tryin to program my Axe into my 9C radio. I have the correct crystal for the axe. WHen i plug up the battery nothing happens. THe heli will jump and the gyro light is on but the controls wont move. I have the swahshplate set to SR3. Is there something i have overlooked or is the heli reciever not compatible with my radio. I cant see y it wouldnt b though.. HElpppppppp lol.. thanks
#520
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From: Benton Harbor,
MI
ORIGINAL: Tennwalker41
Could someone help me. I am tryin to program my Axe into my 9C radio. I have the correct crystal for the axe. WHen i plug up the battery nothing happens. THe heli will jump and the gyro light is on but the controls wont move. I have the swahshplate set to SR3. Is there something i have overlooked or is the heli reciever not compatible with my radio. I cant see y it wouldnt b though.. HElpppppppp lol.. thanks
Could someone help me. I am tryin to program my Axe into my 9C radio. I have the correct crystal for the axe. WHen i plug up the battery nothing happens. THe heli will jump and the gyro light is on but the controls wont move. I have the swahshplate set to SR3. Is there something i have overlooked or is the heli reciever not compatible with my radio. I cant see y it wouldnt b though.. HElpppppppp lol.. thanks
#525
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From: , SC
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ok that might b it .. duhhhh lol. I wouldnt think that anyone would use a single nowadays. I know i have the right channels and everything programmed right just nothin will move. The shop where i bought it said he just put a crystal in it and programmed his radio. HOw can i tell if its a single. THe one i took out is the same size and dimensions and is a 72 . I dont know .. Any other thoughts




