axe cp thread
#1401
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From: Santa Ana,
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jimweda, snowbird6 reports that there are GWS motors that are a match for the Axe CP tail motor and that they fly without any problems. I'm not sure exactly which motor it is, but this seems like it could be it: [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHHF7&P=7]GWS CN12-RXC Motor Set Tail Drive[/link]. It's only $8.49 at TowerHobbies. You may want to contact snowbird6 to make sure.
#1402
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From: North Hollywood,
CA
ORIGINAL: MsDarla
My name is Darla and I am a RC addict also.
Either way its a hobby "Priceless"
Issues with mine was a servo failure which caused a crash within a week but covered through the company to fix all broken parts.
The battery is nearly a joke but okay to practice hoovering with.
[&o]
They ended-up sending me a new helicopter.
I don't even want to attempt to fly it.
[
]
My name is Darla and I am a RC addict also.

Either way its a hobby "Priceless"
Issues with mine was a servo failure which caused a crash within a week but covered through the company to fix all broken parts.
The battery is nearly a joke but okay to practice hoovering with.
[&o]
They ended-up sending me a new helicopter.
I don't even want to attempt to fly it.
[
]
Update: A guy name Rich called me today and talked to me about the heli's. He was very nice and said that I could send it in and have it looked at and they may probably replace the heli. I just think it would be nice if I could find out why its not working. Well, at least someone called and I was able to ask questions. I haven't quite lost faith in Helimax yet.
#1403

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From: Winslow,
ME
ORIGINAL: alienteabagger
If your LHS only stocks gobs of parts for the BladeCP, you can opt to use the rotor blades for that on the AxeCP. They are a direct fit once you remove one of the black caps that cover the lag bolt hole. They are a bit shorter and this will increase your headspeed a bit. But they work.
If your LHS only stocks gobs of parts for the BladeCP, you can opt to use the rotor blades for that on the AxeCP. They are a direct fit once you remove one of the black caps that cover the lag bolt hole. They are a bit shorter and this will increase your headspeed a bit. But they work.
#1404
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From: North Hollywood,
CA
ORIGINAL: HelisRule
Greetings fellow - heliphiles?
Another newb Axe CP learner here. My story covers many years. I first got captivated by R/C when I was about 12 years old and my dad took me into the LHS. I've always been fascinated by aircraft of all types. Of course, when you're 12 you don't think of associated costs with such a hobby, but somehow I talked my dad into at least getting me a kit. It was a TopFlite Headmaster. If that model is unfamiliar to you, it's because we're talking about a model from back in the 70's. As I recall, I think he paid about $30 for the kit, maybe less. I started building it and got all the way to the point where it was ready for Monokote. It actually came with a tissue-paper like covering that was a bit less glamorous than Monokote, to say the least. I had picked up an engine for it and had played around with that, having fabricated a test mounting board where I could run it. The engine was an Enya .40 if my memory serves. I wanted something big enough that I could transfer into something bigger. But alas, I never did finish the plane. I got it to the point where I needed a radio and servos, and the money just wasn't there. Convincing dad to spend what then would have been in the neighborhood of about $150 for a 4 channel radio and servos was just not in the cards. In the meantime, I developed a new fascination for helis. So as teeneagers so often do, I switched gears, and instead of saving for the radio, I saved and bought a helicopter kit. Who remembers the American R/C Mantis? I think I paid about $135 for that kit. Well I won't bore you with that whole story. Suffice it to say it went the same way as the plane. They both remain intact, half-finished in the same basement of my dad's house where I started them.
I never did get any further into R/C but I always remained interested in it. I'm now about the age my dad was then, and although I don't have a 12 year-old, I still have some boy in me and I'm ready to pick up where I left off. So I picked up an Axe CP and have been having fun trying to get it to hover for the last few weeks. And of course, like so many of you I'm learning in my garage, the hard way. and I'm currently awaiting new rotor blades to continue the practicing. Unfortunately, I don't have a LHS where I live anymore. Nearest one is about an hour away and it's a very nice store, but they carry the Blade CP and TRex stuff, not the Axe stuff. So I've been going the Tower Hobbies route. I decided to order a set of training blades along with the standard main blades; I'll keep the sym blades in their pristine state until I get better.
It's been interesting reading the posts here and playing catch-up on all the tricks and tips. You guys have been an invaluable learning tool. At some point, I'm going to go and get the plane and Mantis and finally finish them; looking forward to that.
I haven't gotten a sim, mainly because after convincing the wife that I just had to take up this hobby again, starting out with a $400+ investment for the Axe and a sim would have been a tough sell. Plus I still have to shell out for a lipo setup. What can I say, I guess I married my dad!
But it's ok, she likes nice clothes, so when she goes shopping, I get to go shopping. It's all about the compromise guys! Ha!
Onward...batteries...obviously, I'm ready to get a Lipo, since the stock battery is less than desirable. But I've become overwhelmed with the varying recommendations here and I'm not sure which way to go. It would appear that the most popular battery is the TP1320, but there are various charger/balancer options and it would appear you have all chosen something different. I don't want to break the bank and get the best thing out there, but I don't want bare bones either. I need assistance. Also, what is with all the different connectors?! Anyway, I've rambled enough; don't want to overstay my welcome in my first post. So let's start there. Help!!
Happy Hoverin'!
Greetings fellow - heliphiles?
Another newb Axe CP learner here. My story covers many years. I first got captivated by R/C when I was about 12 years old and my dad took me into the LHS. I've always been fascinated by aircraft of all types. Of course, when you're 12 you don't think of associated costs with such a hobby, but somehow I talked my dad into at least getting me a kit. It was a TopFlite Headmaster. If that model is unfamiliar to you, it's because we're talking about a model from back in the 70's. As I recall, I think he paid about $30 for the kit, maybe less. I started building it and got all the way to the point where it was ready for Monokote. It actually came with a tissue-paper like covering that was a bit less glamorous than Monokote, to say the least. I had picked up an engine for it and had played around with that, having fabricated a test mounting board where I could run it. The engine was an Enya .40 if my memory serves. I wanted something big enough that I could transfer into something bigger. But alas, I never did finish the plane. I got it to the point where I needed a radio and servos, and the money just wasn't there. Convincing dad to spend what then would have been in the neighborhood of about $150 for a 4 channel radio and servos was just not in the cards. In the meantime, I developed a new fascination for helis. So as teeneagers so often do, I switched gears, and instead of saving for the radio, I saved and bought a helicopter kit. Who remembers the American R/C Mantis? I think I paid about $135 for that kit. Well I won't bore you with that whole story. Suffice it to say it went the same way as the plane. They both remain intact, half-finished in the same basement of my dad's house where I started them.
I never did get any further into R/C but I always remained interested in it. I'm now about the age my dad was then, and although I don't have a 12 year-old, I still have some boy in me and I'm ready to pick up where I left off. So I picked up an Axe CP and have been having fun trying to get it to hover for the last few weeks. And of course, like so many of you I'm learning in my garage, the hard way. and I'm currently awaiting new rotor blades to continue the practicing. Unfortunately, I don't have a LHS where I live anymore. Nearest one is about an hour away and it's a very nice store, but they carry the Blade CP and TRex stuff, not the Axe stuff. So I've been going the Tower Hobbies route. I decided to order a set of training blades along with the standard main blades; I'll keep the sym blades in their pristine state until I get better.
It's been interesting reading the posts here and playing catch-up on all the tricks and tips. You guys have been an invaluable learning tool. At some point, I'm going to go and get the plane and Mantis and finally finish them; looking forward to that.
I haven't gotten a sim, mainly because after convincing the wife that I just had to take up this hobby again, starting out with a $400+ investment for the Axe and a sim would have been a tough sell. Plus I still have to shell out for a lipo setup. What can I say, I guess I married my dad!
But it's ok, she likes nice clothes, so when she goes shopping, I get to go shopping. It's all about the compromise guys! Ha!Onward...batteries...obviously, I'm ready to get a Lipo, since the stock battery is less than desirable. But I've become overwhelmed with the varying recommendations here and I'm not sure which way to go. It would appear that the most popular battery is the TP1320, but there are various charger/balancer options and it would appear you have all chosen something different. I don't want to break the bank and get the best thing out there, but I don't want bare bones either. I need assistance. Also, what is with all the different connectors?! Anyway, I've rambled enough; don't want to overstay my welcome in my first post. So let's start there. Help!!

Happy Hoverin'!
#1405
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From: North Hollywood,
CA
ORIGINAL: rc-jj
Jimweda
i dont know even if i qualify to be answering questions with my VAST "expertise" [sm=49_49.gif] ... any-who this happened once to me and it turned out the motor was not affixed firmly in the tail boom - and with a little push and straighten i was back flying....hopefully it is this simple for you ... if not dont quote me .. i DENY DENY DENY E-V-E-R-Y-T-H-I-N-G [sm=sleeping.gif]
ciao
Jimweda
i dont know even if i qualify to be answering questions with my VAST "expertise" [sm=49_49.gif] ... any-who this happened once to me and it turned out the motor was not affixed firmly in the tail boom - and with a little push and straighten i was back flying....hopefully it is this simple for you ... if not dont quote me .. i DENY DENY DENY E-V-E-R-Y-T-H-I-N-G [sm=sleeping.gif]
ciao
#1406
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From: North Hollywood,
CA
ORIGINAL: alienteabagger
If your LHS only stocks gobs of parts for the BladeCP, you can opt to use the rotor blades for that on the AxeCP. They are a direct fit once you remove one of the black caps that cover the lag bolt hole. They are a bit shorter and this will increase your headspeed a bit. But they work.
If your LHS only stocks gobs of parts for the BladeCP, you can opt to use the rotor blades for that on the AxeCP. They are a direct fit once you remove one of the black caps that cover the lag bolt hole. They are a bit shorter and this will increase your headspeed a bit. But they work.
#1407
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From: North Hollywood,
CA
ORIGINAL: s_mcflurry
jimweda, snowbird6 reports that there are GWS motors that are a match for the Axe CP tail motor and that they fly without any problems. I'm not sure exactly which motor it is, but this seems like it could be it: [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHHF7&P=7]GWS CN12-RXC Motor Set Tail Drive[/link]. It's only $8.49 at TowerHobbies. You may want to contact snowbird6 to make sure.
jimweda, snowbird6 reports that there are GWS motors that are a match for the Axe CP tail motor and that they fly without any problems. I'm not sure exactly which motor it is, but this seems like it could be it: [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHHF7&P=7]GWS CN12-RXC Motor Set Tail Drive[/link]. It's only $8.49 at TowerHobbies. You may want to contact snowbird6 to make sure.
#1408
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From: Johnson City,
TN
HelisRule - nicely worded post and welcome to the community. I can relate somewhat as my first r/c was a trainer plane that I built and flew one time. Sold it and a 6ch Futaba radio and all the other accessories. Always wanted a heli so I could step outside and fly it without having to drive 1/2 hr to flying field. Wish I had that radio back though.
s_mcflurry - Great info on the motor. I have put it in my wishlist in case it works out. My only question is how to get the gear off of the Axe tail motor and onto the Motor you listed? We could by three of them for a little over what 1 Axe motor costs
s_mcflurry - Great info on the motor. I have put it in my wishlist in case it works out. My only question is how to get the gear off of the Axe tail motor and onto the Motor you listed? We could by three of them for a little over what 1 Axe motor costs
#1409
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From: Santa Ana,
CA
ORIGINAL: K94max
s_mcflurry - Great info on the motor. I have put it in my wishlist in case it works out. My only question is how to get the gear off of the Axe tail motor and onto the Motor you listed? We could by three of them for a little over what 1 Axe motor costs
s_mcflurry - Great info on the motor. I have put it in my wishlist in case it works out. My only question is how to get the gear off of the Axe tail motor and onto the Motor you listed? We could by three of them for a little over what 1 Axe motor costs
ORIGINAL: Iceman140 (from Alternative AXE CP parts thread)
Try Tower hobbies for tail motor replacement options. Look at GWS CN 12 RXC Motor.
If you see a "D" series motor and gearbox combo you'll find an easily adapted option with a gear ratio pretty close. Look at the Pico Slow Stick Motor gearbox combo. GWS DX2 BBAX. The whole gearbox combo will adapt and the motor is supported at both ends. A little dremel tool work and getting the wires to exit the boom soon so you can secure the assembly to a plug inserted into the end of the boom and presto.....or something to that effect.
You'll need a gear puller if you order the motor only I think, but EFlite makes a nice 1-5 mm shaft gear puller.
Try Tower hobbies for tail motor replacement options. Look at GWS CN 12 RXC Motor.
If you see a "D" series motor and gearbox combo you'll find an easily adapted option with a gear ratio pretty close. Look at the Pico Slow Stick Motor gearbox combo. GWS DX2 BBAX. The whole gearbox combo will adapt and the motor is supported at both ends. A little dremel tool work and getting the wires to exit the boom soon so you can secure the assembly to a plug inserted into the end of the boom and presto.....or something to that effect.
You'll need a gear puller if you order the motor only I think, but EFlite makes a nice 1-5 mm shaft gear puller.
#1410
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From: Johnson City,
TN
Saw 1 review of that motor and he says four flights then it quit. However, snowbird6 says his was okay per his original post and I haven't seen anything else from him about it. still yet, with that motor and the gear puller it is still the cost of one Axe brand. I could probably always use a small gear puller for something in this hobby (self rationalization and justification to buy another tool
). Knock on wood, my tail motor is still working also - the one on the Axe, that is) well, both off them to be blunt and crude.
). Knock on wood, my tail motor is still working also - the one on the Axe, that is) well, both off them to be blunt and crude.
#1411
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From: Santa Ana,
CA
Yeah, that's a tough one. Like the Axe itself, the alternate tail motor could give variable results - it works for some, it's terrible for others. At $8.50 a pop, it might be worth reviewing to add to the testimonial pool. Utilitarianism! LOL...
#1412
ORIGINAL: jimweda
Update: A guy name Rich called me today and talked to me about the heli's. He was very nice and said that I could send it in and have it looked at and they may probably replace the heli. I just think it would be nice if I could find out why its not working. Well, at least someone called and I was able to ask questions. I haven't quite lost faith in Helimax yet.
Update: A guy name Rich called me today and talked to me about the heli's. He was very nice and said that I could send it in and have it looked at and they may probably replace the heli. I just think it would be nice if I could find out why its not working. Well, at least someone called and I was able to ask questions. I haven't quite lost faith in Helimax yet.
Rich has taken of me so far. In-warranty, I got my replacement e-board no questions asked. Out of warranty, my 2nd e-board also failed, and today he said no problem to replace but please send the bad one. Cool!
Update:
I did very good at 'getting back to where I was', a common strategy in engineering. I now have a clean e-board I can send back for a replacement.
I moved the logic chip and the gyro between the boards I have, but probably there is a bad MOSFET or two on the clean e-board, that is preventing main motor from getting voltage. It works otherwise, despite all the expert surgery.
I can now attest to the other testimonials that say "Axe CP has a general problem with its electronics". I am bummed to have to be installing a 3rd e-board, when I know that both my main and tail motors are near end-of-life, thanks to the brushes. They are so inefficient and run so hot... [:'(] Brushes suck!
But, the Axe CP is a great little platform. I can't find anything else that fits its bill. I am still building up my TREX 450SEV2, but still want a smooth running Axe!
I am just about ready to click the orders for 'going separates'. Just a couple more details to hash over...
There is a very good "Going Separates" write up [link=http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=35145]here[/link].
What I have in the shopping cart so far:
Park 370 motor: $50
20A ESC V2: $40
Ammo 3850 tail motor: $35
CC 9A tail ESC $35
The WIFE THING:
My wife says I can buy any hobby stuff I want - but I must give her an equal amount in CASH for anything she wants. Yep, all my hobby stuff costs DOUBLE!!! I find myself making aggressive and risky stock trades to try to come up with extra cash...[sm=72_72.gif]
#1413
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From: Colorado Springs,
CO
Markind, [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5800101/tm.htm]here's a link[/link] to the "seperates" conversion I did you may find it useful.
#1414

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From: Winslow,
ME
ORIGINAL: jimweda
Hey HelisRule! I wouldn't worry too much about getting an expensive Lipo charger. Just get something in your budget and go with that. No need to get all the bells and whistles just for a battery charge. As for Lipo's I also use the TP1320's but also have some Impulse 11.1v, 950's and they both work great. I've upgraded all my battery connectors to Deans Ultra's including the one on the e-board of the heli. Higher capacity, easy to solder and makes a nice, tight connection and is higher capacity rating than the JST that comes with the heli. Get whats in your budget and have some fun. I'd love to see some pictures of your old plane and heli if and when you get it fully built. That would be pretty nastolgic to say the least. Might even make your dad proud to finally see if out of the basement. hehe Good luck and happy flying. Oh, also, for a 3 cell, even though I do have a balancer, I don't think you really need to get one. You could go at least a couple of months before you need to worry about balancing a 3 cell, especially if you get some pretty descent batteries. About 12 mins safely, without discharging below 11v is what I'm getting on my TP's.
Hey HelisRule! I wouldn't worry too much about getting an expensive Lipo charger. Just get something in your budget and go with that. No need to get all the bells and whistles just for a battery charge. As for Lipo's I also use the TP1320's but also have some Impulse 11.1v, 950's and they both work great. I've upgraded all my battery connectors to Deans Ultra's including the one on the e-board of the heli. Higher capacity, easy to solder and makes a nice, tight connection and is higher capacity rating than the JST that comes with the heli. Get whats in your budget and have some fun. I'd love to see some pictures of your old plane and heli if and when you get it fully built. That would be pretty nastolgic to say the least. Might even make your dad proud to finally see if out of the basement. hehe Good luck and happy flying. Oh, also, for a 3 cell, even though I do have a balancer, I don't think you really need to get one. You could go at least a couple of months before you need to worry about balancing a 3 cell, especially if you get some pretty descent batteries. About 12 mins safely, without discharging below 11v is what I'm getting on my TP's.
#1415
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From: miami,
FL
ORIGINAL: markind
The WIFE THING:
My wife says I can buy any hobby stuff I want - but I must give her an equal amount in CASH for anything she wants. Yep, all my hobby stuff costs DOUBLE!!! I find myself making aggressive and risky stock trades to try to come up with extra cash...[sm=72_72.gif]
The WIFE THING:
My wife says I can buy any hobby stuff I want - but I must give her an equal amount in CASH for anything she wants. Yep, all my hobby stuff costs DOUBLE!!! I find myself making aggressive and risky stock trades to try to come up with extra cash...[sm=72_72.gif]
#1416
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From: Johnson City,
TN
Could be the blades. I put mine back together last night after a mishap and i tracked my blades but it was taking a lot more throttle to lift it than my usual. I lengthed each blade arm 1/2 turn and it was back to lifting off at the "normal" stick position for me.
#1417
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From: Johnson City,
TN
I got a question. I had my heli apart last night and I was checking the main motor (nothing hooked to it) and this is what I observed. At low speed it sounded like it had a "growl" in it and as I increased speed it would change from a "growl" to a higher pitched whine. I assume the whine would be normal and good but I am curious about the low speed growl. Based on your experience and what I have written, does it sound like the stock motor is going bad? Been flying on average 10 minutes a day for a month. Also, I don't know if it is related to the motor or if it is just the swash plate slop etc., but it seems that I am getting the Up/Down surges a little more often in a battery pack flight. The flybar is really loose on it and the servos (stock) seem tight under slight presssure.
Thanks in advance.
Heliko, still debating on priority of getting an upgraded TX or a HH Gyro. As you said earlier, need a higher channel radio to run the higher gyro if I plan to swap it to a bigger heli someday. My concern is if it will survive my flying until I get the bigger one.
Thanks in advance.
Heliko, still debating on priority of getting an upgraded TX or a HH Gyro. As you said earlier, need a higher channel radio to run the higher gyro if I plan to swap it to a bigger heli someday. My concern is if it will survive my flying until I get the bigger one.
#1418
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From: Colorado Springs,
CO
ORIGINAL: K94max
I got a question. I had my heli apart last night and I was checking the main motor (nothing hooked to it) and this is what I observed. At low speed it sounded like it had a "growl" in it and as I increased speed it would change from a "growl" to a higher pitched whine.
I got a question. I had my heli apart last night and I was checking the main motor (nothing hooked to it) and this is what I observed. At low speed it sounded like it had a "growl" in it and as I increased speed it would change from a "growl" to a higher pitched whine.
Heliko, still debating on priority of getting an upgraded TX or a HH Gyro. As you said earlier, need a higher channel radio to run the higher gyro if I plan to swap it to a bigger heli someday.
My concern is if it will survive my flying until I get the bigger one.


#1419

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From: Winslow,
ME
ORIGINAL: K94max
Could be the blades. I put mine back together last night after a mishap and i tracked my blades but it was taking a lot more throttle to lift it than my usual. I lengthed each blade arm 1/2 turn and it was back to lifting off at the "normal" stick position for me.
Could be the blades. I put mine back together last night after a mishap and i tracked my blades but it was taking a lot more throttle to lift it than my usual. I lengthed each blade arm 1/2 turn and it was back to lifting off at the "normal" stick position for me.
#1420
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From: Johnson City,
TN
Thanks, I just put the oil in the wish list for the next order (along with a main motor). 
I had less trouble deciding to get married than I do on deciding on upgrades/parts etc for this hobby. [X(]
It's not the flying that worries me, it's the CRASHING. [:@] No, don't do that! Ouch! Dang it! Ah, h***. Dogs running with tails tucked, small children crying for their mommies, birds taking to flight, siesmologists scratching their heads wondering "what was that?" Hobby stores smiling and nodding their heads.

I had less trouble deciding to get married than I do on deciding on upgrades/parts etc for this hobby. [X(]
It's not the flying that worries me, it's the CRASHING. [:@] No, don't do that! Ouch! Dang it! Ah, h***. Dogs running with tails tucked, small children crying for their mommies, birds taking to flight, siesmologists scratching their heads wondering "what was that?" Hobby stores smiling and nodding their heads.
#1421
ORIGINAL: alienteabagger
Man that has got to suck...
ORIGINAL: markind
The WIFE THING:
My wife says I can buy any hobby stuff I want - but I must give her an equal amount in CASH for anything she wants. Yep, all my hobby stuff costs DOUBLE!!! I find myself making aggressive and risky stock trades to try to come up with extra cash...[sm=72_72.gif]
The WIFE THING:
My wife says I can buy any hobby stuff I want - but I must give her an equal amount in CASH for anything she wants. Yep, all my hobby stuff costs DOUBLE!!! I find myself making aggressive and risky stock trades to try to come up with extra cash...[sm=72_72.gif]
Naw its cool. She does spend some of it on stuff the whole family can enjoy, so what the hey. And, it keeps her happy and there can be no hobbies if the wife is not happy.... [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]
ORIGINAL: Heliko
Markind, here's a link to the "seperates" conversion I did you may find it useful.
Markind, here's a link to the "seperates" conversion I did you may find it useful.
Heliko! My brother I have never addressed you directly, but here is a big THANKS for that 'Going Separates' write up!
I mulled it over a lot before placing my orders. Soon, we will be brothers in the world of the Brushless Axe.
I went with 'Ray-K-47's' final approach on his FrankenAxe. He did a lot of flight testing and really seemed to nail down the headspeed, heat, and flight time curves. Also, his Brushless Direct Drive Tail (BLDD) mod is lookin' might fine. [sm=greedy.gif]
Here then, is what's on the way:
Park 370 BL motor 4100KV (with 10-tooth pinion that should be excellent, based on calculation, and flight testing) $48 eBay, delivered.
e-Flite 20A ESC V2, $43 eBay, delivered. Should run cool and the new technology is supposed to provide the motor with more accurate timing, which should reduce heat loss and thus improve flight times.
Ammo 3880 BL motor for the tail - $27 Tower.
CC 9A ESC - should run cool, $24 Tower
More when the parts come in. Now step away from the PC, and GO FLY! [sm=lol.gif]
#1423
I'd rather not search through 71 pages of information to get the answer I need, so i'll just ask it here. I just migrated over here from the Nitro car and truck "threads" I've always wanted to buy a Heli, beacuse they are said to be the hardest to master. So. I bought a Heli-Max Axe Cp today. This thing is freaking awesome. It's my first heli. I ditched the original battery pack after two flights for my 3s cell 1325mah Lipo pack. The stock battery only lasted about 4-6 minutes. where as my Lipo was lasting well into 15+ minutes of run time. But here's my question. my rear tail always wants to spin to the left if it's facing away from me. I've tried adjusting the trim in the controller and It's all the way to the right and I still have to feed in a lot of tail when it's hovering to keep it straight. Is this normal? I knew you have to fly the tail but this seems a bit much. is there some way to adjust this setting on the esc without buying a heading hold lock? some adjustment to help curb how much tail trim and hold is actually going into the thing? Also I crashed after my 5th flight with it. I'm already up to hovering about eye level off the ground. Broke the stock wooden blades, the balls on the end of the blade grips, and tail rotor shaft. about $25.00 to fix. My second question is, should I buy the original wooden blades again or opt for the trainer plastic baldes? Thanks in advance guys, I've had a lot of support in the car/truck forums and I hope I'll get a big welcome here as well.
~*To blue skys, and calm winds*~
~*To blue skys, and calm winds*~
#1425
ORIGINAL: Revo_Rash
But here's my question. my rear tail always wants to spin to the left if it's facing away from me. I've tried adjusting the trim in the controller and It's all the way to the right and I still have to feed in a lot of tail when it's hovering to keep it straight. Is this normal? I knew you have to fly the tail but this seems a bit much. is there some way to adjust this setting on the esc without buying a heading hold lock? some adjustment to help curb how much tail trim and hold is actually going into the thing? Also I crashed after my 5th flight with it. I'm already up to hovering about eye level off the ground. Broke the stock wooden blades, the balls on the end of the blade grips, and tail rotor shaft. about $25.00 to fix. My second question is, should I buy the original wooden blades again or opt for the trainer plastic baldes? Thanks in advance guys, I've had a lot of support in the car/truck forums and I hope I'll get a big welcome here as well.
~*To blue skys, and calm winds*~
But here's my question. my rear tail always wants to spin to the left if it's facing away from me. I've tried adjusting the trim in the controller and It's all the way to the right and I still have to feed in a lot of tail when it's hovering to keep it straight. Is this normal? I knew you have to fly the tail but this seems a bit much. is there some way to adjust this setting on the esc without buying a heading hold lock? some adjustment to help curb how much tail trim and hold is actually going into the thing? Also I crashed after my 5th flight with it. I'm already up to hovering about eye level off the ground. Broke the stock wooden blades, the balls on the end of the blade grips, and tail rotor shaft. about $25.00 to fix. My second question is, should I buy the original wooden blades again or opt for the trainer plastic baldes? Thanks in advance guys, I've had a lot of support in the car/truck forums and I hope I'll get a big welcome here as well.
~*To blue skys, and calm winds*~
Big Booyah Skeedaddy welcome to the Axe club!
First things first - your formidable RC experience is obviously helping you a lot, but beware the rotorary wing beasts. A calm, methodical approach will reduce crashing and the severity. Overconfidence = crash, and its generally more of a problem than a ground vehicle crash. There is plenty of energy in the 2000 - 3000 RPM main rotor to do all kinds of hurt to all kinds of stuff.
Now then, check page 11 of the manual and read how to trim your tail.
I have had limited use of the 'plastic trainer blades' and I totally love them. I am years away from inverted flight,s so I don't need symmetrical blades and the increased lift of the flat-bottoms rocks my world. Reduces the headspeed and increases flight times.
Your use of LiPO packs is your first MOD!! Congrats! Make sure to check the Balance of your model.
Good luck and keep us posted!


