I'm a rank amateur but would like to put a HH gyro in my CP due to having some hand mobility problems. I'll be using the factory supplied Tx, please point me in the right direction.

What do I need to know and, where can I find the needed parts?

Thanks.

http://manuals.hobbico.com/hmx/hmxe04-gyro-manual.pdf

Follow the manuel above but get a evo 20 for the tail, the recommed esc will quit at a certain voltage and you'll end up planting it in the ground.
I have used this setup and it works very well.

Rollingball is that voltage cut-off a problem for Li-po's or NiMH or both?

Both chemistrys for lipos it is 2.75 volts per cell lower than I like to run them and .80 volt per cell niMH. Also does not have a feature to turn off the cut off. Has been known to cut off even earlier with a large current drain from the main motor. BAD NEWS when that happens.

Hey rollingball, do you have a link for the evo20?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXHCD7

i have one of these and it cooked .. had to send it back to TH for replacement .. put the other one back in and just timed my flights so i never hit the cut off ..

Interesting I have had the opposite, cooked motor, They worked great for both, before the BL mods.

Thanks for the recommendation, rollingball.

I have another newbie question....

I now have the GY240 and the EVO20 ESC, when plugging the ESC into the gyro, do the connectors go together with the plastic locking tabs facing up? Logic tells me yes but I don't want to fry anything.

Tabs UP ?



or Tabs DOWN ?




Thanks again.

Osprey21,

I recently took the leap and did the HH upgrade to my Axe CP with the GY-240 and using the ElectriFly C-12 ESC for the tail. Have not yet, but am looking forward to, dumping the 3-in-1 board for a "GWS ICS-480 ESC".

I am using the stock battery and have not, yet, had a drop-out problem with the tail motor and the C-12, but the gy-240 does seem to suck a little more power and the tail motor runs longer. What I experience is drop out of the main motor as bat loses volts (tail slows down, but keeps spinning). The motor doesn't stop, just kinda sputters and slows down. If I back off of the Collective/Thrust a little, I can regain enough control to get back on mother earth without slamming too hard. Maybe if I would put a LiPo in I woulf get better main moto performance, but I expect I would also start having tail motor dropouts too.

I would like to hear how the evo-20 works out. I have a feeling that I'll be, eventually, going that way, along with the ICS-480 (or similar) for the main motor.

Hope my input helps convince you to go with a HH setup. I'm an old codger and the HH has been a world of help. It aint the answer to everything, but it sure gives you a lot less to have to concentrate on..
good luck

I've been reading alot about seperates lately trying to dial in my BL tail, but I've also come across alot of info on seperates with a brushed set-up. If anything I would go with a [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGTY8&P=7]Pixie 7[/link] for the tail since it has programmable low volt cut-off and throttle range. Right now [link=http://www.lightflightrc.com/]Light Flight RC[/link] has Pixie 7's on sale for $19.95.

While I was at it if I was going to replace the 3-in-1 all together I would use the [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGTY9&P=7]Pixie 20[/link] for the main motor ESC.

However this is also the perfect time to go brushless on the main motor for a little bit more than what the main motor ESC costs. I went with [link=http://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDHOBBIES/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4875]Feigao 2900Kv motor[/link] and an [link=http://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDHOBBIES/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4312]H-wing 18A ESC[/link], but the [link=http://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDHOBBIES/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4211]KB20 2900Kv motor[/link] would also work perfectly and is a bit cheaper.

The cool thing about both of these motors is that they reuse the stock pinion and keep the headspeed very close to stock making the install a simple procedure. The stock Tx will also work pretty well with this set-up because pitch curves won't have to be drastically altered to accomodate the BL motor. My BL set-up has worked out well for me. Not only did it add power it also reduced amp draw. My stock motor pulled 11 amps at full throttle. The Feigao I'm using now pulls 8 amps.

Anyway just some food for thought.

I fried my eboard on my axe cp, I would rather not buy a new one at 80.00, is their another way to replace it?

Hobby Man, I have a suggestion. You could go seperates. You'll need a gyro and two ESC's. It will be more expensive, but the gyro you buy can be transferred to your next heli.

Using the ESC's I already posted the whole set-up would run around $150 or so. The difference in performance (especially with a GY240) is staggering.

Good Luck!

From what I see in your picture, you should connect "Tabs Down." I believe the brown wire goes to the black, you cut the red, and the orange goes to the white. BEFORE you do it, get another opinion besides mine as I'm not 100% sure and would hate to see you lose that gyro.

Why can't they make them all color coded the same?

Post here what the correct connections are when you find out. Thanks.

Hey if you still want that esc I have that one new in package. $25 shipped!!

Alien,

I recently smashed my 240 and am back to using the original setup. Temporarily short of funding (ie: the wife won't turn loose of enough to replace the 240 until I finish the deck in the back yard....). I be in better shape to give you a response in about three weeks, so hope no offense if I don't get back to you until then ( if somebody else jumps in earlier, I will surely understand if you go for it). We are talking the GWS ICS-480? And I'm still using the brushed motor.

Yup.... Actually the one I have is the next step up (I think). Mines is the ICS-480Li (LiPo capable).

ICS-480Li Specifications:

Dimensions: 25.5 x 12.5 x 9.0 mm; 1.00 x 0.49 x 0.35 inches
Weight: 14g (0.49 oz) with wires; 4g (0.14 oz) without wires
Heat Sink Size: 12 x 21 x 6 mm; 0.47 x 0.83 x 0.24 inches
Heat Sink weight: 2g (0.07 oz)
Frequency: 2.8 KHz
Auto Cutoff: 5.4v for 2S; 8.1v for 3S
BEC: 5V at 1.2 Amp max (use dedicated receiver battery if more than 1.2 Amp is needed)
Reset: throttle lowest
Current: 15A continuous; 25A Max.
Battery: 2S or 3S Lithium Packs (7.4v, 11.1v)
Battery Connector: Mini Tamiya
Connector: Universal for Futaba, Hitec, Airtronics-Z, Multiplex

I only spent about $60 bucks with about 8 bucks shipping between the c-12 and a brushless outrunner motor esc combo. You will however have to look around for a gyro if you don't want to buy new as they go very quickly when they pop up for sale. Expect to spend anywhere from 50-95 dollars for a used GY240. Personally I wouldn't buy one if it cost more than $80 used because a brand new one is like a $119-125 bucks.