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Old 10-22-2007 | 10:10 AM
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From: alvin, TX
Default MAIN GEAR

WHAT IS THE CORRECT PROCEDURE TO REPLACE THE MAIN GEAR ON AN AXE CP...

I CHANGED MINE BUT IT WAS A PAIN IN THE BUTT...AND I THINK I BENT IT A LITTLE.....IT KINDA RIDES UP AND DOWN AS IT SPINS....

THERE IS A VERY TIGHT FIT BETWEN THE 2...... HOW DO U PRESS EM TOGETHER WITHOUT MESSING ANYTHING UP????
Old 10-22-2007 | 11:14 AM
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Default RE: MAIN GEAR

Support the gear against the frame with something that fits between the gear and frame (like a screwdriver) and GENTLY tap out the shaft. Then, clean up the bottom of the shaft going back into the gear and gently tap it back in until the hole in the gear and shaft line up. Its a very tight fit, tighter than my
Old 10-22-2007 | 12:24 PM
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From: alvin, TX
Default RE: MAIN GEAR

thats what i did......

i guess ill try again with a new gear......
Old 10-22-2007 | 07:03 PM
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Default RE: MAIN GEAR

You can true-up the plastic gear, by applying light-pressure to the high-spots with a piece of hardwood. I bought 3 main gears, 2 from one supplier, one from another, all of them were junk right out of the package! Not a one of them spun true.
I used 2 (1.000" gauge blocks), on a flat surface (kitchen table), I draped a piece of white paper behind the gear (makes it easier to see). Using a white grease pencil I marked the gear (on the spokes) to indicate the "high-spots" as I rotated the gear on the blocks, after I found the 2 high-spots, I started applying light pressure with a block of wood, at those marks, rotate the gear 360 degrees still you don't see anymore wobble.
You could also spin the gear while it was pressed into the shaft, if you rested the shaft in a V-block, use a framing square as a true 90' sight-line, to sight in the gear.
Above and beyond would be using a .0001" dial indicator (with at least .025" of travel), while the gear sits mounted to the shaft, and the shaft spins in a "St. Mary's Gauge," with shaft runout less than .0001" at 1" away from steady wheels. Wishful thinking with plastic parts[].

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