LRP Z.28 Winter Break-In Woes
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LRP Z.28 Winter Break-In Woes
Hey
Been a while since I've posted here but I've gotten a LRP 28 for my Savage for christmas, and I am having a hell of a time attempting to break it in. It is incredibly difficult to get it started, even with using a heat gun, as it has so much compression. It seems the only way I can get it started is to Loosen the glow plug, put the glow ignitor on, have a friend hold the throttle open a little bit, and then pull about 10 times and hopefully if I am lucky one of those 10 times will fire the engine up. Once it is running there is just tons and tons of fuel pouring out of the exhaust, and plenty of blue smoke. It is also incredibly common for it to stall when I tighten the glow plug down on the engine. When I go to accelerate slightly to start to vary the throttle so I can break in the engine doing the heat cycle method, it stalls out immediately. I went through about a tank of this where it would just idle if I could even get it started. I am starting to become incredibly confused as I have always used Traxxas engines and the old F4.1 engine before and never had this type of problem. I figured it could be too rich, so I leaned the High Speed Needle out about half a turn in small increments to no avail.
Luckily it was about 50 degrees outside today, but I still put a sock around the Head of the engine and was getting temps of about 160ºish. I know it needs to be hotter than this but it's incredibly hard when it keeps stalling.
I am now scared that I could have messed up the sleeve as it has idled for almost a whole tank while trying to get it started and running right, even though it's most likely that 50% of the tank went straight out the exhaust.
It is being run in a completely stock Savage X, other than Servos, Radio/Receiver, dual disc brake upgrade, and the new engine. The LRP is connected with the stock header, to the stock plastic exhaust, running 20% Traxxas Top Fuel, as I figured it would be better than Blue Thunder, which are the only two fuels that they sell locally anymore. It has a stock (R5) Glow Plug in it and is just sobbering Rich, but I have already leaned out the engine a half turn on the HSN and I figured I would ask before I would go any farther...
Sorry for the Novel, but I thought I'd like to give you guys enough information
Thanks
Woodmandan2
Been a while since I've posted here but I've gotten a LRP 28 for my Savage for christmas, and I am having a hell of a time attempting to break it in. It is incredibly difficult to get it started, even with using a heat gun, as it has so much compression. It seems the only way I can get it started is to Loosen the glow plug, put the glow ignitor on, have a friend hold the throttle open a little bit, and then pull about 10 times and hopefully if I am lucky one of those 10 times will fire the engine up. Once it is running there is just tons and tons of fuel pouring out of the exhaust, and plenty of blue smoke. It is also incredibly common for it to stall when I tighten the glow plug down on the engine. When I go to accelerate slightly to start to vary the throttle so I can break in the engine doing the heat cycle method, it stalls out immediately. I went through about a tank of this where it would just idle if I could even get it started. I am starting to become incredibly confused as I have always used Traxxas engines and the old F4.1 engine before and never had this type of problem. I figured it could be too rich, so I leaned the High Speed Needle out about half a turn in small increments to no avail.
Luckily it was about 50 degrees outside today, but I still put a sock around the Head of the engine and was getting temps of about 160ºish. I know it needs to be hotter than this but it's incredibly hard when it keeps stalling.
I am now scared that I could have messed up the sleeve as it has idled for almost a whole tank while trying to get it started and running right, even though it's most likely that 50% of the tank went straight out the exhaust.
It is being run in a completely stock Savage X, other than Servos, Radio/Receiver, dual disc brake upgrade, and the new engine. The LRP is connected with the stock header, to the stock plastic exhaust, running 20% Traxxas Top Fuel, as I figured it would be better than Blue Thunder, which are the only two fuels that they sell locally anymore. It has a stock (R5) Glow Plug in it and is just sobbering Rich, but I have already leaned out the engine a half turn on the HSN and I figured I would ask before I would go any farther...
Sorry for the Novel, but I thought I'd like to give you guys enough information
Thanks
Woodmandan2
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RE: LRP Z.28 Winter Break-In Woes
I usually lean the engine out a bit....still rich for break-in, but lean enough to provide consistent running during break-in.
And....some engines are fussy. I've had two that acted like yours. I just leaned them out a bit until they ran better, continued with the break-in and eventually leaned for a good tune.
Try to get through the first tank indoors (if possible). Make sure you measure temps at glowplug. The temp there doesn't change much winter to summer,, but you still want to get the engine over 200degF during heat cycles. I usually shut mine down once over 220degF.
Usually there's no need for a sock, but lean it a bit and get it under load (slow speed circles or figure 8's) as soon as possible. The first tank will go quick as it's so rich, so you can idle it mostly, quick blips of throttle with wheels off the ground. After that first tank, get it outdoors.
And....some engines are fussy. I've had two that acted like yours. I just leaned them out a bit until they ran better, continued with the break-in and eventually leaned for a good tune.
Try to get through the first tank indoors (if possible). Make sure you measure temps at glowplug. The temp there doesn't change much winter to summer,, but you still want to get the engine over 200degF during heat cycles. I usually shut mine down once over 220degF.
Usually there's no need for a sock, but lean it a bit and get it under load (slow speed circles or figure 8's) as soon as possible. The first tank will go quick as it's so rich, so you can idle it mostly, quick blips of throttle with wheels off the ground. After that first tank, get it outdoors.
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RE: LRP Z.28 Winter Break-In Woes
Alright, should I just lean the High Speed Needle or the low speed as well? also, it idles a bit fast, you think I should turn that down a bit?
Thanks for the quick reply!
Thanks for the quick reply!
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RE: LRP Z.28 Winter Break-In Woes
Probably both needles, but I find the factory setting for the LSN usually not far off, so you can leave it "flush" or whatever the spec is, and leave the idle up to compensate. Just as long as the idle isn't so high as to cause the clutch to engage, or partially engage. So try leaning the HSN a bit. Probably at least 1/4 turn, or possibly more.
If you still have problems, you can screw the LSN in about 1/4 turn from factory settings.
If you still have problems, you can screw the LSN in about 1/4 turn from factory settings.
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RE: LRP Z.28 Winter Break-In Woes
ORIGINAL: woodwore69
Its dieing at idle so the hsn hasn't took over so you need to lean the lsn
Its dieing at idle so the hsn hasn't took over so you need to lean the lsn
ORIGINAL: Woodmandan2
When I go to accelerate slightly to start to vary the throttle so I can break in the engine doing the heat cycle method, it stalls out immediately. I went through about a tank of this where it would just idle if I could even get it started.
When I go to accelerate slightly to start to vary the throttle so I can break in the engine doing the heat cycle method, it stalls out immediately. I went through about a tank of this where it would just idle if I could even get it started.
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RE: LRP Z.28 Winter Break-In Woes
Try putting a hot plug in just for the beak in, that will do wonders for you and when youve finished the break in put a medium plug back in and tune from there.
I would also lean out the lsn a little as well as the hsn, my lrp.28 was pig rich from factory.
I would also lean out the lsn a little as well as the hsn, my lrp.28 was pig rich from factory.
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RE: LRP Z.28 Winter Break-In Woes
ORIGINAL: woodwore69
Its dieing at idle so the hsn hasn't took over so you need to lean the lsn
Its dieing at idle so the hsn hasn't took over so you need to lean the lsn
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RE: LRP Z.28 Winter Break-In Woes
ORIGINAL: jbooker82
When you lean the HSN you automatically lean the LSN because the HSN controls the amount of fuel that is fed to the LSN. That is why you always adjust the HSN first then the LSN.
ORIGINAL: woodwore69
Its dieing at idle so the hsn hasn't took over so you need to lean the lsn
Its dieing at idle so the hsn hasn't took over so you need to lean the lsn
One reason to close the lsn on break in is it is set to rich from factory and the crank builds up fuel and as soon as you touch the throttle this makes the engine die, leaning it out prevents fuel building up in the crank case.