Wizz Kid

help me out here fellow wasp .28 owners. i cannot figure out the idle settings for my wasp. it starts perfectly, idle is fine, then when i drive around and let go of the throttle, it idles like twice as fast?? what is going on? i have done 3 tanks of break in so far.

savageman90

My Feedback: (12)

mine does the exact same thing

bashking

That happened on one of my engines but it was a T15 from a MT2. The problem on that was the nut underneath where the servo arm attatches to the carb ws loose. I know BB engines are totally different but check for anything that has come loose and is not letting the carb return fully

tmaxxkillers-25

ur idle isnt retarded u need to seal your backplate and carb again becasue the seal it comes with sucks and you need to losen the glow plug in the begining of when u start ur engine and once it idles for 30 seconds tightenen it and its ready to go.

say bye

this may seem funny but i had that problem with mine and the throttle linkage was getting hung up on the gas tank clip. held it open just a fraction above idle.

Wizz Kid

say bye and bash king i have checked those, not the problem but could be easily overlooked, thanks. tmaxxkillers-25, i actually think im getting too much fuel, not air. the settings could be so rich that fuel is pooling up and so it has to burn the excess fuel therefore making a faster idle. im not for sure. but wouldnt you think the company would put a strong enough sealer to last atleast for the break in? i cannot start it with the plug loose cause it wont fire over. if the plug is tight it fires over in a snap. the booklet did mention something about quick start ups being caused from a low-end lean, but i checked that 3 times already.

although my throttle return spring wasnt helping me that day. its too tight for my throttle servo to pull it so i only get about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, somewhere in there. if i take the spring off, i get WOT but the throttle doesnt fully return to an idle. my problems really began when i had the spring on, which is still on now. maybe i need a softer throttle spring yet?

Savage_Dias

The stock throttle linkage on Savages isn't anything to write home about. I still have the TRS on mine but I've gotten into the habit of gently tapping the brakes if I know I'm not going to get on the gas real soon. My Wasp .26 does the same thing but I think it's more of a throttle problem than engine problem. Since you're at it though, make sure you aren't running too rich on the bottom end. Leaning that out helped me a bit but it didn't cure the problem. The cure is sitting on my workbench. OFNA throttle linkage does wonders especially when backed up by a high torque servo.

say bye

i have a wasp 28 also and if your going off the manual the settings are way off. i contacted jeff at orion and he give me new starting points for both needles. it was 4 out on the high and 6 out on the low.. mid all the way in. i'm fairly new to this but i do have my wasp running great with thier help.

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

I tend to agree about the Needle settings. If you are running lean, the engine idle will creep up. Also, like Savage Dias said, gently tap the brakes. If the idle goes back down, then your linkage is not adjusted right. The servo should close the throttle all the way when you let go. I had to adjust my linkage WAY out running my SH .28 and an 18T CB. That is when the adjustment is there. When you get further away from your linkage (The screw near the frame) by using different engines or Clutch bells, you need to adjust for that. Do your best to make sure that the screw that holds the linkage is all the way tight and then backed off a 1/16 turn. Also, that linkage should be parallel and perpendicular (The 90 degree elbow) when your servo is centered and your engine is at idle. If it is not, adjust the linkage so that it is.

ed260z

The real problem here is that your engine isn't broken in yet. With only 3 tanks through it, it's going to be erratic.
This engine is very tight, and needs about 10 tanks through it before it will start to loosen up.

Although it also sounds as if you've messed with the needles trying to fix it. Bring them back to where they belong and run another 7 tanks. And make small adjustments along the way, until you can get it steady.
Good luck

Wizz Kid

well thats the problem, it wont run with the stock settings. i might call team orion like say bye and see what they say. thanks.

Johnny Ripper

My Feedback: (3)

Set your timing at 32 degrees advanced and it will idle like a champ.

Baroncowboy

My Feedback: (1)

OK.....Ive seen this a thousand times!lol Anyhow,the deal with the idle reving after start up is for three reasons...First off,if you've ever dealt with race engines in the past,no matter the type,they can all have there ups and downs more often than a stock engine.....(First Reason)-High performance engines run stonger for one main reason>They're opened up more/breath better,and can consume more air/fuel-AKA"CFMs",creating a denser combustion state.<This all meaning in order for the denser charge to be fully taken advatage of,the timeing of the engine must be adjusted for optimal performance acordingly....With this timing adjustment,they we're seaching for the best power-band so that the engine can pull with everything its got with-in its design,hence the crowning word"Race"engine...
Now to get to the point....>Since this engine,is a "race" engine,it doesnt have the idleing potentials that a stock would have,since the stock engines were designed and intended to be "user friendly",inplace of the"high performance"competition race engine's unforgiving nature!...All said and done>Race engines are simply not meant to idle!

(Reason 2)Because of "reason 1" and they do infact consume more fuel/air,these engines have alot more vacume,meaning they can pull harder on the fuel lines,and create more presure via the muffler.So as one fello said before...If idled,they will create a pool of un-burnt fuel at the bottom of the crank-case that will slow the idle down,making you think you have the idle set correctly when you should have set it after it warms up... [Side Note] - The STOCK muffler was designed for optimal performance "COMBINED WITH THE STOCK ENGINE"and NOT your new and usually larger displacement "Race engine".As I menchened,race engines breathe better and really need a "tuned pipe/race muffler"that can breathe aswell,and better suits that specific engine over-all.Also,BEWARE of adjustable pipes,as they can be near impossible to get the correct inner cone setting obtained for a newbe!..[Example]-Try www.ofna.com and other trusted 1/8th scale buggy companys to get the easyest and "possibly" best results outa your bigblock race engines....Now to>------->

(Reason 3)instead of letting it idle for a long period of time,you should constantly blip the throttle>This helps to clear the un-spent fuel and will keep your engine from getting to hot from setting in one place and not getting enough air,and lubrication all at the same time..."Point Blank"And once again coming to"reason 1",these engines were not designed to idle more than 6 seconds or less....
One other thing before I shut up...As another fellow said earlier>...It is alway a good idea to re-seal your engines back-plate and the carb...Even the smallest of air leaks can reck-havoc on holding a tune or even running at all...Even though the factory seals are good ones,it insures the fact,and gives you the opertunity to lock-tite every bolt for extra insurance and knowing its done right...["Point Blank"]DO IT!!!....Every single PRO racer does this,so you cant go wrong!

[To sum it up]If this concept doesnt convence you,the next time you go to the local full scale drag strip and see all those race cars rumbleing about,watch and see just how long the man or woman behind the wheel of one lets that "high performace engine" idle!
Over and out...

Wizz Kid

ok i think i may get what you are saying (and yes i read the whole post). so its good for it to idle high like it is because of the race engine needs more rpms?

right now i have basically a "bottom end" kind of pipe (the ss 25 ribbed). ive heard some people saying this is a better pipe for their engine (guessing other non-race engines) so i thought it would be an easy deal ending up with a good pipe. but if you say so i might have to make yet another investment[:@] (nitro is so expensive!). i ill have to check e b a y or something cause i cant afford a new pipe. (im still only 13....ish and a half....ish)

Wizz Kid

what a long day! beautiful outside, 82 degrees but with 20-35 mph gusts. did 2.5 tanks more of break in temps ranging from 186-401 degrees fahrenheit[X(]. but i think we got the tune settings figgured out. we ended up being .5 turns richer than the stock break in settings. i had to use rubber bands for my throttle return. stripped a spur from loose gravel kicked up in there. and i had perfect mesh too!!!! the motor is plenty loose now and starts in less than 3 seconds. i changed my diff oil from 1k and 3k, to 50k in the front and rear hoping to get a little more 4wd power. nothing broke so i had a good day, besides that dang wind! it scrambled my radio up every now and then.

Baroncowboy

My Feedback: (1)

ok i think i may get what you are saying (and yes i read the whole post ). so its good for it to idle high like it is because of the race engine needs more rpms?

Hey fella,I was just reading in,and I seen where you had replied so I decided to check ya out...
About what you said ^...

Yes the engine needs to be cleared out more(bliped),but no you shoudnt leave the idle running at high RPM's... What I meant by the Race Engines arent designed to idle,was that they are not going to idle for as long as a stock would,rather than saying that they wont idle at all...
The reason that a high idle shouldnt be left alone to rev freely/high,is that it will cause your clutch to lightly engage at all times,meaning that it will cause you to pre-maturely burn up your clutch shoes faster since they never have time to dissengadge and cool like they should when you let off the throttle from time to time... It will also cause your clutch bell/gear to get to hot and will lead to the plastic spur gear melting and ultimately stipping the teeth...
If you have a metal spur gear this isnt such a big deal,but it will still cause other parts to wear more quickly...
Other than that,I think that the muffler you have should work fine,and besides...You can always up-grade that later on....Just concentrate on getting that idle set....

Good luck and most of all,....Have fun!