savage06

first i would like to say hi to everyone here. Now, here goes my problem. Yesterday i started the break-in running with a friend that has rc car experience b.c this is my first nitro vehicle. we got about 4 tanks ran through it and everything was fine. the only thing that needed some work was the brakes. so my buddy started turning the little knob by the servo on the left side of the truck and got more brakes then he shut it off. well today i try to go out and drive this truck and it wont stay running.(40F today). so i call him up and he comes over to help me and he messes with the low and high speed needles. now we cant even get the engine to run now. i looked in my manual after he left and saw that the needles need to be...HSN-4 1/2 turns out, and the LSN- was 3 turns out. well when i ran the low speed needle all the way in and come back out 3 turns it seems like its still really far in there? and one more question, what can i do about my throttle sticking? it seems that when i give it gas it sticks alittle till i hit the brake, then the truck dies....someone please help me though...thanks in advance!!!!

alvinl

If you let the truck idle, then hit the brakes you will find the throttle on the carb actually moves in. That's the way mine was from the factory. You just need to adjust you idle a little bit. Also make sure the throttle trim on the radio is set to 0 or neutral. If it is turned to the right, that will push the idle up and hitting the brakes will cause it to drop suddenly like that. If you only have 4 tanks through it, it will all get better with a few more tanks. My LE kept changing until I got about 10 tanks through it. Then my tuning was a lot more stable. Expect to tweak the tuning frequently until the motor gets thoroughly run in.

claudacio

My Feedback: (9)

As far as the needles, go by what the factory tells you. They might have had them a little richer than the stock settings for break in.

Try this:

The factory setting for the HSN is 4 1/2 turns out, Try setting it to 4 turns out. And put the LSN back to exactly what the manual states. Take out the glow plug, turn the truck over and put a rag over the cooling head so in case any fuel comes out it will go on the rag. MAKE SURE when you take the glowplug out there isnt any dirt around the plug, because you do not want that falling in your engine. If there is spray some carb or brake cleaner to blast it out and then take the plug out.

Next with the rag over the cooling head and the truck upside down (cooling head facing the ground) crank the engine over with the rotostart for ten seconds or so, if you have the pullstart just give it 5 or 6 tugs should clear it out.

Then, I would recommend putting a fresh glow plug in, but if you dont have one just make sure the one you got is good. And also MAKE SURE your glow ignitor is charged, obviously if thats not charged it isnt going to start. Now set the needles just like I said above and try it out.

As far as the throttle sticking, you probably need to zero out the trim on the radio. I had the RTR radio that came with the savage and it sucks. So just try to center it up and I think you'll be all set with the sticking issue.

Let us know how it works out.

Ironlegend

ok the easyest advice i can give you is take it back to the r/c shop you got it from and ask them to tune it for you, useally its free, unless you get a dick that will charge you, anyway other then that once you get about 6-8 tanks in, it will start to loosein up for you and you wont be driveing such a tight truck, i found out when tuneing it.... its best to have someone who honeslty knows how the r/c is supposed to sound and run, " just intill you get the hang/feel of it.


sorry i cant be of anymore help

Jayson

tmodlin

One more thing, make sure you dont screw the LSN in to far when you reset it to factory. It will screw in a long ways if you dont watch the carb slide when turning it in. If you screw it in too far you will have to take it all of the way out and make sure you didnt rip the o-ring.

Savage545

If the temperature is colder than the previous time you ran it, you may need to lean the engine a little to get it running at a warm temp again.

savage06

alright, today i got it running finally. and it dont die out when i hit the brakes so thats good. but my only question now is how should i set the low speed needle b.c it seems like it will thread in there along way!!! after i got the truck running i couldnt give it more then half throttle b.c it would die (temp 220F) i know that would mean too rich, so do i mess with the high or low speed needle?

fxrs

First I wouldn't let your friend help anymore. 2nd get that
low speed needle back out to where its flush to the end of carb.
And 3rd read whats below. This info is not mine. But it did come from this forum.
There are two members on this forum who detailed the following info. ( Frost and Nitronutt )
I only copied it for you to read. Again this is not my info but I do use it as a guideline.

HSN TUNING 101 by Nitronutt
To tune your HSN, you need some open space, your truck and your ears. Begin by running your truck to get up to operating temperature. Once you do, make a high speed pass (50-75 feet) at WOT (Wide open throttle). How did it sound? How did it perform? Pay special attention to the highest rpm your truck reaches. Try turning the HSN 1/8 turn counter clockwise (More rich). Repeat the above pass. Did the RPM’s get higher? If so turn 1/8 again in the same direction. If not, turn ¼ turn clockwise. Better? Keep going. Find the exact setting that gives you the highest rpm that your truck will reach. Once you find it, turn the HSN 1/32-1/16 turn counter clockwise. This is the optimal HSN setting. Verify the temperature after you have finished tuning to be sure that it is within the 235-275 degree range. Proceed to LSN tuning .

LSN TUNING 101 by Frost

Tune for performance, forget the gimmicks, go with what works.

If you are already getting good top end and you are running at 250F or so (if you haven't bought a 20 dollar temp-taker DO IT) here is what to do to get SNAPPY response, this is what pulls wheels and gives you that GREAT take-off:

1. Since off the line "snap" can be given or taken away by being lean OR rich on the LSN the first move is a guess (well it won't be after you get a feel for it, but this will get you going quickly)...

2. Pull the truck up in front of you and let it idle for 8 seconds. Then pull the trigger to WOT... Did it scream and take off? If no:

3. You have to go one way or the other... choose richer or leaner (suprisingly to many beginners, off the line stutters can be caused by too lean conditions just as easily as too rich) and turn the LSN in that direction 1/16th of a turn. Make a short pass at medium to high throttle and return the truck to in front of you.

4. Let it idle 8 seconds and floor the throttle. Did it take off better or worse? If better, turn it a 1/16 in the same direction, if it got worse, turn it 1/8th the OPPOSITE way. Either direction you started in, now you will be going one way based on whether it got better or not... either richer or leaner.

5. Make another short pass at medium to full throttle (AFTER you made the change to the LSN) and return the truck to you. Let it idle 8 seconds and floor it. Is it still getting better? If so, continue to lean or richen using the pass/idle 8 seconds method until you lose preformance and back up a step...

If your temps are in range this is how to quickly get your truck to "explode" off of the line... Always make the pass to clear out the engine and then let it idle 8 seconds. The idling will allow it to either lean out or load up, depending on which way the current settings are off... Get the hang of this and your truck can really take off. If you end up leaning the LSN out excessively make sure to keep an eye on temps, your top end needle may need a bit of enrichment.

Note on idle speed: You often need to adjust the idle speed screw to compensate for the LSN needle change. If you find that you cannot idle, or the truck stalls around turns etc, the idle needs to be raised. If you need to chase after your truck because the idle is too high after an adjustment, then obviously it needs to be lowered.