jombo

thank you for the offer but i have had it with the engine. the hole carb is broken i kind of hit it with a hammer after the handle of the pull start broke and all i had left was the string in my hand. so i notted the end so i could start it but by that time... well lets just say anger management would'nt work and it got the better of me. if there is a different carb out there that fits, this thing would still run, the carb that came with mine was garbage from day one.

BicketyBam

I used a carb from an Axial .28 - fit perfectly.

There's a reason why these things are $130.

jombo

i will pick one up, so today i will use the 9 iron on the carb and give it another shot. the first thing i need to check is the button head and see if its not warped. if it is i will try a different one i will try and make it work. just call me dr frankenstine.

SAVAGEJIM

I too have the Duratrax temp gun. It works okay and takes temps accurately, but as with any other temp devie, I always have to take several readings and go with the hottest reading. I noticed that it is hard to point it directly onto the hostest part of the plug in one try and that is the reason why I take several attempt (five readigs in one setting for me) and go with the hottest reading.

When I first noticed the inaccurate readings and had to resort to the 5X readings, I at first thought the temp gun was faulty. I therefore asked my neighbor to borrow his automotive temp gun with laser pointer (a $200 temp device!) and discovered that my Duratrax one is correct, it's getting it to point at the hottest part of the plug that is the problem.

To rule out any flukes, I asked an air conditioner repair friend of mine to borrow his HVAC temp device (his looks almost like the automotive temp device!) and the HVAC one provided consistent readings with the Duratrax gun and the automotive temp gun.

The bottom line is when taking the temps, be sure to hit the hottest part of the plug. Hobby grade temp guns lack laser pointers so you have to do your bst to position them over the plug. Worse yet, you literally have to put them over the plug hole such that the sensor is very close to the plug to ensure you are not pointing the dang thing at the walls of the heatsink.

With this in mind, I will buy an automotive grade temp gun, those things are awsome! You do not even have to lean down! Just point the laser pointer at the hottest part of the plug and temp from as far as 5ft away and you get an accurate reading! Distance is not a factor with these things; put it 1mm away from the plug or 5ft away from the plug, it will give the exact same reading!

SAVAGEJIM

Good luck on your endeavors, I hope you can get your engine going.

As for your head warp, it seems like the head screws are closer to the sleeve than usual. Try not to over tighten since you could risk a warp. But if was warped before hand, I dont know what to do. If it was warped from the factory, return it; that warping is not your fault.

The one option I would suggest to you is to try to return the engine; turning the LSN to where the threads are showing is too much LSN richening; that is definitely a production issue and not a cause of abuse or misuse.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

When tighten the head bolts on any brand nitro engine you have to tighten them evenly in a cross pattern. I have talked to many new comers that had problems with the head leaking one many different brand engines and 99.9% of the time is they did not tighten them properly. Never had a head leak on any of my 3 STS engines.

supertib

threads showing is fine on these mills.... thats actualy quite normal

BCKoots

Can I use 30% nitro for breakin on my new STS 30?

jombo

but did yours have 6 yes 6 shims in it, i highly dought it was me but its easier to blame the opperator than the manufacturer.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I never had to put sealer on any of my engines on the head gasket including 3 STS engines so where should we put the blame? I have been building motors for over 35 years and never use sealer on a head gasket! I was trying to help but some there is no hope for and yes 90% of the time problems with STS or any brand engine is the user!!!!!!!!!! When someone says they are going to take a 9 iron to it tells me a lot about a person! [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

jombo

well if i remember correctly some one said if their truck goes wot they pick it up and slam it on the ground
[sm=spinnyeyes.gif][sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

46u

My Feedback: (3)

It sure the heck was not I that said that as I have better sense and am more mature then that.

jlcc

OK i have the sts .30 rev 2, it has monster power and torque, its not completely broken in yet, i have one full gallon in and am going to burn another 1/2 gallon before shimming it and run it on 30%. I have no complains as to the performance but i have a thew questions. MAN DOES THIS THINGS SUCK GAS!!!!, its rediculouse, its in an LSP and i have to put gas in every 3 minutes when i am riding. Low speed is set extremely rich, and high speed extremely lean, its the only way it runs good. Sure it runs good but i am guessing it ain't supposed to be eating gas up this much. When its iddling it don't take that much gas though, just iddling it will take about 10 to 15 min to burn the whole tank. Although i think i may have found a porblem, my gas tank was not sealing good from the small o ring, do you guys think this could be the problem, i am going to change the oring to make it seal better, am suppost to take it out tomorrow, do you think this may be the reason. It really didn't seal up good. I am running with an hpi hellfire pipe. Thanks

supertib

I race with a modded 30 and beleive it or not get 10 minutes run time.... Try the STS 0403 tuned pipe, you will be quite impressed......

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

He only drives 80 yards, but that's because his Big Bertha is a piece of crap!

BCKoots, yes, use 30% for breakin.

Tib, what size is the tank in your race rig that you get 10 minutes of runtime with? I'm assuming you upgraded from the standard 150cc mugen tank?

Oh, and Jombo, 6 shims or 3 shims, doesn't matter. You shouldn't put sealant anywhere NEAR the head. Also...did I read that you SEALED the needles? with what?

46u

My Feedback: (3)

TBJ if you read these 22 pages you will see where some are sealing their needles with Teflon tape. I personally have not had a problem with my needles on any of my 3 STS engines and they all use the same carburetor. If by chance I think there might be a problem I just put a little green slime on the O-ring.

supertib

150 cc

BCKoots

Thanks for the answer! I thought I wasn't going to get one.

BCKoots

Well, My damnn pullstart broke![:@] Cheap piece of cr#p. I was doing fine on the breakin, temps staying at 200.

The plastic housing inside the pullstart is broken. and the knot pull right thorugh. I have never had a pull start do this. Cheap plastic!

BicketyBam

I'll save the others the trouble: The pullstarter is fine. You pulled it to hard.

BCKoots

I pulled it only as hard as I needed to to get it to turn over. The plastic inside the housing broke.

Maybe most pullstarts are good quality but mine defenately was not.

BicketyBam

Mine broke in the exact same manner. I complained about the quality and was told I don't know how to use a pull starter. I'm with you.

rcnitrohead

Damn that sucks guys, I'm starting to become apprehensive about starting up my engine[&:] Its been sitting in the basement for two weeks already and still needs a roto backplate and pipe. Then damn retard I sold my engine to on ebay hasn't paid yet[&o] And I don't want to start buying stuff until I know how much money I have to spend. If he don't pay up by thursday I sense negative feedback coming[X(][sm=punching.gif] cause I'm not waiting a month to start my engine. Good thing I stuffed the carb and glow plug hole with paper towel so it doesnt get dusty. I took a look at it yesterday and the crankcase is all dusty lol I hope Im gonna get some better fuel economy then you guys cause filling up every ten minutes is My S-25 ran for a good half hour on a tank so with .5 extra cc why is the consumption so bad? I guess I do something different with my engines cause they have always run longer than supposed to. For example: TRX 2.5 on my T-maxx, expected run time: 10-15 min. My run time: 25-30 min. On my S-25 expected run time: 15-20 min. My run time: 25-35 min. I dunno whats up lol but im very thankfull!!! [8D][>:]

46u

My Feedback: (3)

If you got 30 minutes out of the stock 25 you should have had it put in the Guinness book of world records and kept the 25. Or either you where just idling around the yard. On my stock K4.6 I got around 15.Yes bigger higher performance motors use more fuel.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

I must've missed that...oops! I'd never heard of doing anything other than green sliming the o-rings, and that's all I've ever done, so it kind of made me wonder what he used to seal the needles:P

Jombo, any luck with your engine?