Lost a plane today
04-24-2012, 07:33 AM
#76
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RE: Lost a plane today
I have been flying two seasons now on 4.8v on my Futaba 2.4's with most of them having 6 servos and have not had one single problem.. Now after reading this, I am spooked! I haven't found anything in my Futaba manual that says you have to use 6v, but it does make sense...
Question for the crowd..
Can you run6v on RX and back it up with a 4.8v on another switch.. The reason I ask is that my 4.8's are newer packs, but I am changing to 6v on a 50cc plane that will have back up on another switch. Can I do that, or amI better off going with two 6v packs?
Question for the crowd..
Can you run6v on RX and back it up with a 4.8v on another switch.. The reason I ask is that my 4.8's are newer packs, but I am changing to 6v on a 50cc plane that will have back up on another switch. Can I do that, or amI better off going with two 6v packs?
04-24-2012, 12:23 PM
#78
RE: Lost a plane today
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
I have been flying two seasons now on 4.8v on my Futaba 2.4's with most of them having 6 servos and have not had one single problem.. Now after reading this, I am spooked! I haven't found anything in my Futaba manual that says you have to use 6v, but it does make sense...
Question for the crowd..
Can you run6v on RX and back it up with a 4.8v on another switch.. The reason I ask is that my 4.8's are newer packs, but I am changing to 6v on a 50cc plane that will have back up on another switch. Can I do that, or amI better off going with two 6v packs?
I have been flying two seasons now on 4.8v on my Futaba 2.4's with most of them having 6 servos and have not had one single problem.. Now after reading this, I am spooked! I haven't found anything in my Futaba manual that says you have to use 6v, but it does make sense...
Question for the crowd..
Can you run6v on RX and back it up with a 4.8v on another switch.. The reason I ask is that my 4.8's are newer packs, but I am changing to 6v on a 50cc plane that will have back up on another switch. Can I do that, or amI better off going with two 6v packs?
No, do not mix batteries of different voltages.
The Pamster
AMa 202345
04-25-2012, 04:47 AM
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RE: Lost a plane today
ORIGINAL: Luchnia
You guys that have trouble with your JR/Spektrum stuff are more than welcome to send them to me as I will take that trouble off your hands and that will end your problems with that garbage. I will take AR7000, 8000, R921s, the radios etc. You know you are bound to lose a plane with that junk.
I will take them all and would even consider paying shipping charges for those bad devices that are browning out on you. This is a good solution and will rid you of those pesky JR/Spektrum problems. Why fight it? Just do it. Move over to Futaba and be happy and I will deal with the faulty JR/Spektrum junk that is costing you all those headaches and crashing your planes.
The best way to rid yourselve of this serious problem is to get rid of the troubled items and you know you don't want to sell those defective componants to any fellow pilot KNOWING that he/she would have the same problems as you are having now would you? I will put it in writing that I will not sell the componants to any fellow pilot as long as they are validated defective by my research and testing. Why take the chance on losing any aircraft that cost thousands to such defective devices?
I am here to help you out of this dilemma the easy way and save you much hardship, grief, and lots of hard earned money. [8D]
You guys that have trouble with your JR/Spektrum stuff are more than welcome to send them to me as I will take that trouble off your hands and that will end your problems with that garbage. I will take AR7000, 8000, R921s, the radios etc. You know you are bound to lose a plane with that junk.
I will take them all and would even consider paying shipping charges for those bad devices that are browning out on you. This is a good solution and will rid you of those pesky JR/Spektrum problems. Why fight it? Just do it. Move over to Futaba and be happy and I will deal with the faulty JR/Spektrum junk that is costing you all those headaches and crashing your planes.
The best way to rid yourselve of this serious problem is to get rid of the troubled items and you know you don't want to sell those defective componants to any fellow pilot KNOWING that he/she would have the same problems as you are having now would you? I will put it in writing that I will not sell the componants to any fellow pilot as long as they are validated defective by my research and testing. Why take the chance on losing any aircraft that cost thousands to such defective devices?
I am here to help you out of this dilemma the easy way and save you much hardship, grief, and lots of hard earned money. [8D]
I really feel bad that you are going to take all of this risk by yourself. Iwould feel much better and sleep safer at night if I were to help you with all the junk equipment from JR/Spektrum that anyone wants to get rid of.
I will also pay shipping on any of these radios and recievers that anyone needs to unload
04-25-2012, 07:29 AM
#80
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RE: Lost a plane today
ORIGINAL: BuschBarber
Are you talking about Arming Switches? I use them on all my electrics (except for the foamies).
http://www.rcaccessory.com/armingswitch.aspx
http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-21.html
I use them to cut the power to my ESC until just before I am ready to takeoff. This way, I can attach the motor batteries, secure the canopy, and then wait to fly. They could be used for Rx batteries, as well.
ORIGINAL: AndyKunz
There are panel-mount Deans setups for this kind of purpose, mostly from the niche companies. You are correct about the high resistance being a problem - not just the switches, but also the wires.
Andy
ORIGINAL: P47Tbolt
I just setup a Wild hare Edge 540 50cc using Power HD 1501mg servos,DX8 and an AR8000 receiver with telemetry.
Battery is a Hobbico Life 6.6v 2100 with 2 switches.One switch is a JR chargeswitch(JRPA004),the other is a switch I bought from
the Perry r/c swapmeet for $10.00 that looks like a JR chargeswitch but is not.with the telemetry I can see what voltage is at the receiver from the DX8.It records min and max voltage automatically on screen.With just the $10.00 switch on my voltage was dropping to 3.9v from 6.6 while operating all servos.With just the JR switch on the voltage would drop to 5.6v from 6.6 while operating servos.with both switches on it would drop to 5.9v from 6.6 while operating servos.
voltage drop is servo load and from resistance in cheap switch,you also have some resistance in all the connections between receiver and battery.keep connections to a minimum.I wonder what a 4.8v pack would drop to with a bad connection or cheap switch.probably enough to make the receiver reboot/brownout whatever you want to call it.
I am actually looking at replacing all my receiver switches in all my big planes with just a deans plug between battery and receiver.I would have to take off canopy every flight,but that would be better than loosing a plane.
I just setup a Wild hare Edge 540 50cc using Power HD 1501mg servos,DX8 and an AR8000 receiver with telemetry.
Battery is a Hobbico Life 6.6v 2100 with 2 switches.One switch is a JR chargeswitch(JRPA004),the other is a switch I bought from
the Perry r/c swapmeet for $10.00 that looks like a JR chargeswitch but is not.with the telemetry I can see what voltage is at the receiver from the DX8.It records min and max voltage automatically on screen.With just the $10.00 switch on my voltage was dropping to 3.9v from 6.6 while operating all servos.With just the JR switch on the voltage would drop to 5.6v from 6.6 while operating servos.with both switches on it would drop to 5.9v from 6.6 while operating servos.
voltage drop is servo load and from resistance in cheap switch,you also have some resistance in all the connections between receiver and battery.keep connections to a minimum.I wonder what a 4.8v pack would drop to with a bad connection or cheap switch.probably enough to make the receiver reboot/brownout whatever you want to call it.
I am actually looking at replacing all my receiver switches in all my big planes with just a deans plug between battery and receiver.I would have to take off canopy every flight,but that would be better than loosing a plane.
Andy
http://www.rcaccessory.com/armingswitch.aspx
http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-21.html
I use them to cut the power to my ESC until just before I am ready to takeoff. This way, I can attach the motor batteries, secure the canopy, and then wait to fly. They could be used for Rx batteries, as well.
12-23-2013, 10:10 AM
#81
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So from another simple (I like KISS) perspective on the battery issue, I fly PLENTY of 4.8 batteries with 2.4 BUT I only use high capacity packs. That means (to me) a pack higher than 1500 mAh and not the old style 600 or 700 mAh packs. These higher capacity packs give a long use time before hitting that dreaded Rx cut off voltage (capacity is storage, the more you can store the longer it can run before the voltage can fall off). One thing to look for no matter what voltage you buy in NiCad or Ni-MH, the packs should need to be formed since at the mfg they only form to a certain point to be able to get the voltage up and the packs out to the vendors.
12-26-2013, 12:16 AM
#82
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After an unhappy experience or two with 2A BEC's, and some bench testing of NMIH batteries - - -
What started the whole thing was loss of control, either total or partial. Two A/C models were involved.
Both were using ESC's with 2A rated internal BEC's from E-flite.
At least the models were recovered with very minor damage.
Replacing the internal BEC's with higher capability external ones solved the problems.
Next event prompting bench testing. E-Flite 60-120 electric retracts.
Spec was 900Ma max. No further information as to per gear or for the set.
The gear, when operated with the usual NMIH four cell pack would operate in erratic fashion, hang, etc.
We found that the peak current draw was much greater than 900ma, even after massaging the mechanicals
to reduce peak current. (Later versions seem to use a different motor or possibly gearing, and have a reduced
peak current.)
Bench testing used ~2000mah NMIH battery packs. and BEC's driven by lipos.
Initially, a fully charged pack would operate the gear more or less successfully. At or below about 50% charge,
The battery voltage dropped due to peak current enough to cause problems with the digital 2.4g RX (brownout)
It turned aout that the 2000mah batteries did not like peak current draw above about 1.5A or so.
3A and 6A external BEC's were tested. There were no RX problems, and the gear operated properly.
Another little tidbit has to do with the ubiquitous RX power "slide switch"
Use 2PDT or 3PDT switches with the poles wired in parallel for reliability
and lower loss across the contacts.
What started the whole thing was loss of control, either total or partial. Two A/C models were involved.
Both were using ESC's with 2A rated internal BEC's from E-flite.
At least the models were recovered with very minor damage.
Replacing the internal BEC's with higher capability external ones solved the problems.
Next event prompting bench testing. E-Flite 60-120 electric retracts.
Spec was 900Ma max. No further information as to per gear or for the set.
The gear, when operated with the usual NMIH four cell pack would operate in erratic fashion, hang, etc.
We found that the peak current draw was much greater than 900ma, even after massaging the mechanicals
to reduce peak current. (Later versions seem to use a different motor or possibly gearing, and have a reduced
peak current.)
Bench testing used ~2000mah NMIH battery packs. and BEC's driven by lipos.
Initially, a fully charged pack would operate the gear more or less successfully. At or below about 50% charge,
The battery voltage dropped due to peak current enough to cause problems with the digital 2.4g RX (brownout)
It turned aout that the 2000mah batteries did not like peak current draw above about 1.5A or so.
3A and 6A external BEC's were tested. There were no RX problems, and the gear operated properly.
Another little tidbit has to do with the ubiquitous RX power "slide switch"
Use 2PDT or 3PDT switches with the poles wired in parallel for reliability
and lower loss across the contacts.
12-30-2013, 05:23 PM
#83
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All this business about battery voltage and type. I currently have a JR 9X (with 2.4g conversion module), a JR 2720, a JR 347, and a JR 9303 (2.4g) I use Spectrum and JR receivers. I fly Old Timers,(in competition), electric gliders and various other types all with varying numbers and types of receivers but I only use JR and sometimes Hitec servos. I also currently use 4,8v Nimh batteries with capacities ranging from 500mah through to 2000mah. The only battery problems I have ever had were traced back to faulty / old switches (JR or Hitec). My enelope nimh batteries are light and provide good power. Before I use them I cycle them at least 3 times to "pump up" the batteries. All batteries are checked and charged before a days flying "no matter what" and to date I have yet to experience the problems you guys have. I also run a 22000mah Lipo and 2x 1300 mah Lipos for the gliders, don't stress any and fly within the parametters outlined by the manufacturers.
12-31-2013, 06:19 PM
#84
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Sorry to hear about the loss, Having just lost a plane muself due mainly to glare and lack of skill I know how it haunts you.
The Futaba 3003s may be an issue.
What I mean is genuine Futaba servos are 1st class but there are many clone 3003,s at about $5 or so about that are pure junk. Its a lucky dip how well and how long they work for as the electonics and Pots are very very poor quality.
A chap on you tube did a videao on them and showed the physical difference to discern real from fake. a You tube search re Futaba 3003 clones should find it
The Futaba 3003s may be an issue.
What I mean is genuine Futaba servos are 1st class but there are many clone 3003,s at about $5 or so about that are pure junk. Its a lucky dip how well and how long they work for as the electonics and Pots are very very poor quality.
A chap on you tube did a videao on them and showed the physical difference to discern real from fake. a You tube search re Futaba 3003 clones should find it
